WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty - That's why I wanted to tell you that quickly. Having said that, the 130 amp alternator with the 10 second delay regulator won't automatically put out 130 amps. It'll only put out what is needed, so if you don't add a lot of power-consuming devices you won't need that much.

Angelo - Makes sense on staying with the short crank.

Correct, only how many amps that are needed. I just don't know what my truck uses amp wise I am going off estimates, I did the math on my auxiliary circuits but I don't know what the DSII ignition system draws for example, or what the LED interior lights draw or the interior gauges, or the dealer A/C unit, I don't even know what the Sniper Stealth EFI is going to draw electrical wise.

I am trying to piece it together to be over kill so I wont ever hit max output but I also want to make sure that if I do hit the output my truck need it doesn't result in a belt squeal or throwing the belt. Like if my battery was weak for example or had a bad cell I wouldn't want to have a 130A alternator if it would force it to go to the higher spectrum of the output and start slipping the belt or throw the belt.

So I have no problem running the easier to find 130A alternator with the 10 second delay regulator. I don't think my truck even with four more 100w halogen auxiliary lights would even reach 80A of power needed.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's the one with the 8 1/4" spacing with the soft start regulator?

I contacted DB Electrical but they couldn't tell me the spacing on the ears on the one I was looking at.

I know LED lights can be super bright but my problem is I am going for that old '80s look so I am regulating myself to the popular round lights and there just aren't any out there by KC that look right. The daylighters are LEDs on one option but they have I think two single LED bulbs that fire at the reflector that the reflector directs and focuses the light. To me that just doesn't seem as bright as the halogen driving lights I have.

If I had confirmation that they were brighter I would gladly upgrade from my Apollo driving lights to the daylighter driving lights in LED. Would save me some power and allow me to run more lights.

This is the LED Daylighters that KC is offering now, $400 for a pair vs $180 for a pair of halogen. Its why I want to make sure the LED ones are brighter as if I am spending $400 for a pair I expect them to be brighter than the halogen.

https://www.kchilites.com/light-type/daylighter/6-gravity-daylighter-pair-pack-system-pr.html

and a video of a Jeep with the daylighter LED lights.

Yes, the 3.8l got the 8.25" spacing, and the 3.0 V-6 has the 7" spacing needed for the serpentine Windsors.

I bought my alternator for a Taurus, and added the white LRC regulator to avoid the chirp.

I've noted with Gary that the best way to identify these alternators is by Lester number, because then the clocking and threaded mount will be correct.

In mentioning lighting, I'm only speaking in absolute output.

I can't see an LED lamp looking like something from 40-50 years ago.

Technology has come a long way.

As evidenced by the led being ~8x as efficient at creating photons instead of heat.

Color can be another factor.

LED light is typically narrow spectrum.

While higher quality LED's are binned and used in premium products.

Cree rejects can be found all over eBay. (they're still Cree product)

I could see trying to disguise a modern lamp in an old housing.

I have some 4" backup lights that might fit in a chrome shell

At 8:1 27W should equal ~150W incandescent.

Fairly accurate in my assessment.

$15 the pair -delivered- a $6 lamp + $1.50 shipping across the globe

Diecast aluminum housing, black powdercoat, stainless bracket and hardware.

They've held up under my truck but I'm not sure of running them for long periods enclosed

The aluminum housing/heatsink might have a problem doing its job in a confined space.

But I use them sporadically, as backup lights.

[Rusty_S85]

Yes, the 3.8l got the 8.25" spacing, and the 3.0 V-6 has the 7" spacing needed for the serpentine Windsors.

I bought my alternator for a Taurus, and added the white LRC regulator to avoid the chirp.

I've noted with Gary that the best way to identify these alternators is by Lester number, because then the clocking and threaded mount will be correct.

In mentioning lighting, I'm only speaking in absolute output.

I can't see an LED lamp looking like something from 40-50 years ago.

Technology has come a long way.

As evidenced by the led being ~8x as efficient at creating photons instead of heat.

Color can be another factor.

LED light is typically narrow spectrum.

While higher quality LED's are binned and used in premium products.

Cree rejects can be found all over eBay. (they're still Cree product)

I could see trying to disguise a modern lamp in an old housing.

I have some 4" backup lights that might fit in a chrome shell

At 8:1 27W should equal ~150W incandescent.

Fairly accurate in my assessment.

$15 the pair -delivered- a $6 lamp + $1.50 shipping across the globe

Diecast aluminum housing, black powdercoat, stainless bracket and hardware.

They've held up under my truck but I'm not sure of running them for long periods enclosed

The aluminum housing/heatsink might have a problem doing its job in a confined space.

But I use them sporadically, as backup lights.

Well thankfully KC made their daylighters with a drop in LED module. I just wrote them off as it only uses one led per hemisphere facing the lens.

Videos I seen seems to show they put out just as much if not more light than the halogen ones I have.

On the 3G alternator I found out that why I couldnt find a 8" pivot mount 95A is that no small case had the wide pivot mount only the large case had it.

So now I am looking at going the 130A alternator. Only thing I am thinking about is since I sized my 95A build with a 6Ga batter cable charge wire with a 125A fuse, I think I will use the same setup on the 130A cause I wouldnt have to worry about an alternator burning up by going full field as my single V belt would'nt allow it. I also dont believe I would ever bypass 95A let alone 100A but 125A is the smallest fuse size for the mega fuse.

I know amps are supposed to regulate to what is needed but i did read the 130A alternator is capable of 80A at 2000 rpm idle up to 160A at 6000 rpm. Theses numbers sounds like full fielded results.

I thought about maybe doing a fusible link at a lower amperage but think I'll stick with the 125A fuse.

[Gary Lewis]

Well thankfully KC made their daylighters with a drop in LED module. I just wrote them off as it only uses one led per hemisphere facing the lens.

Videos I seen seems to show they put out just as much if not more light than the halogen ones I have.

On the 3G alternator I found out that why I couldnt find a 8" pivot mount 95A is that no small case had the wide pivot mount only the large case had it.

So now I am looking at going the 130A alternator. Only thing I am thinking about is since I sized my 95A build with a 6Ga batter cable charge wire with a 125A fuse, I think I will use the same setup on the 130A cause I wouldnt have to worry about an alternator burning up by going full field as my single V belt would'nt allow it. I also dont believe I would ever bypass 95A let alone 100A but 125A is the smallest fuse size for the mega fuse.

I know amps are supposed to regulate to what is needed but i did read the 130A alternator is capable of 80A at 2000 rpm idle up to 160A at 6000 rpm. Theses numbers sounds like full fielded results.

I thought about maybe doing a fusible link at a lower amperage but think I'll stick with the 125A fuse.

That's good to know about the KC Daylighters. I like their look, but would like LED's.

As for current, one of the beauties of the 3G's is that they put out as much or more at idle as the 1G's do at full tilt. But that 160 amp rating is if you have the right diodes, and the alternators don't come with 160 amp-capable diodes. Bill and I've upgraded our alternators to the 160 amp-capable diodes, but that doesn't mean that they'll always put out that much current. That would only be in extreme circumstances.

I think you'll be fine with a 130 amp alternator and 125 amp fuse. Your belt won't let you get to that much current without serious complaining, so I don't think it'll ever happen.

[Rusty_S85]

That's good to know about the KC Daylighters. I like their look, but would like LED's.

As for current, one of the beauties of the 3G's is that they put out as much or more at idle as the 1G's do at full tilt. But that 160 amp rating is if you have the right diodes, and the alternators don't come with 160 amp-capable diodes. Bill and I've upgraded our alternators to the 160 amp-capable diodes, but that doesn't mean that they'll always put out that much current. That would only be in extreme circumstances.

I think you'll be fine with a 130 amp alternator and 125 amp fuse. Your belt won't let you get to that much current without serious complaining, so I don't think it'll ever happen.

That's what I was thinking. I'm going 5o keep the OE charge wire but I want to put it after the fuse so if the fuse does pop the alternator doesnt try to force the amps all through the oe charge wire. I think it has enough length to hook up where I'll be mounting the fuse.

The kc daylighters with LED isnt cheap $400 for a pair with wiring. I didnt figure up how much it would cost just for the two lights. They all use the same pig tails as far as I know so I got the wiring done already so just the lights alone would be my option.

[Gsmblue]

That's what I was thinking. I'm going 5o keep the OE charge wire but I want to put it after the fuse so if the fuse does pop the alternator doesnt try to force the amps all through the oe charge wire. I think it has enough length to hook up where I'll be mounting the fuse.

The kc daylighters with LED isnt cheap $400 for a pair with wiring. I didnt figure up how much it would cost just for the two lights. They all use the same pig tails as far as I know so I got the wiring done already so just the lights alone would be my option.

Been a quiet week as I have been working and the yard has taken some attention, but a new blower motor arrived today, so i guess I will HAVE to install that over the weekend :)

Happy Easter.

[Angelo Voltura]

Been a quiet week as I have been working and the yard has taken some attention, but a new blower motor arrived today, so i guess I will HAVE to install that over the weekend :)

Happy Easter.

And like that, 35 years of carbs goes out the window.

Upgrading dads truck. Working on figuring out dual tanks..thinking check valves and Aermotive in tank pumps on factory hangers.

[Rusty_S85]

And like that, 35 years of carbs goes out the window.

Upgrading dads truck. Working on figuring out dual tanks..thinking check valves and Aermotive in tank pumps on factory hangers.

Id recommend a walbro style pump, the foxbody mustang pumps seem to fit just about any sending unit out there.

[CliftonK]

Id recommend a walbro style pump, the foxbody mustang pumps seem to fit just about any sending unit out there.

Got the new shocks on today, ride is a bit stiff but the handling is back. Well I guess it's there now? Got the new modulator in but haven't driven it enough to check/set my shift points.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well thankfully KC made their daylighters with a drop in LED module. I just wrote them off as it only uses one led per hemisphere facing the lens.

Videos I seen seems to show they put out just as much if not more light than the halogen ones I have.

On the 3G alternator I found out that why I couldnt find a 8" pivot mount 95A is that no small case had the wide pivot mount only the large case had it.

So now I am looking at going the 130A alternator. Only thing I am thinking about is since I sized my 95A build with a 6Ga batter cable charge wire with a 125A fuse, I think I will use the same setup on the 130A cause I wouldnt have to worry about an alternator burning up by going full field as my single V belt would'nt allow it. I also dont believe I would ever bypass 95A let alone 100A but 125A is the smallest fuse size for the mega fuse.

I know amps are supposed to regulate to what is needed but i did read the 130A alternator is capable of 80A at 2000 rpm idle up to 160A at 6000 rpm. Theses numbers sounds like full fielded results.

I thought about maybe doing a fusible link at a lower amperage but think I'll stick with the 125A fuse.

Rusty,

The 4.9 definitely did have a 95A 8.25" mount 3G in the mid '90's.

I'm very sure those are alternator rpm's.

You need to include the pulley ratio to determine engine rpm.