WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Rusty_S85]

That engine in mine is very snappy. It definitely has a fair idle when warmed up. It is not smooth but not super choppy either I guess.

Just hoping it runs/sounds the same when the new one goes back in. I'm a little nervous now but im.pretty sure my replacement cam is the same

might have to play with the carb some. that engine running rough like that sounds like its not getting the right fuel but once it warms up the fuel turns to a vapor easier and it smooths out.

That's really the reason why I am changing my mind on the summit 600cfm Vac secondaries I bought for my build. Going to set me back a good $1,800 to go fuel injection but, ive seen the improvements with them over carb and there is no need to go adjusting with changes in elevation or temperature. Stock isn't a problem too much but aftermarket seems like they like to give you trouble some times.

Plus I love the thought of having a step up circuit built in for the iac to idle my engine up when the AC is on. Sure I could throw a step up solenoid on but when the AC cycles the solenoid loses power and then you have to tap the throttle again to bring rpm back up.

The specs you posted sounds like it should be a smooth running cam. I think from the reading ive done years ago when I picked this cam out, 110/112* is about the max for what is considered a smooth idle. with 114* to 119* being factory smooth.

[Angelo Voltura]

might have to play with the carb some. that engine running rough like that sounds like its not getting the right fuel but once it warms up the fuel turns to a vapor easier and it smooths out.

That's really the reason why I am changing my mind on the summit 600cfm Vac secondaries I bought for my build. Going to set me back a good $1,800 to go fuel injection but, ive seen the improvements with them over carb and there is no need to go adjusting with changes in elevation or temperature. Stock isn't a problem too much but aftermarket seems like they like to give you trouble some times.

Plus I love the thought of having a step up circuit built in for the iac to idle my engine up when the AC is on. Sure I could throw a step up solenoid on but when the AC cycles the solenoid loses power and then you have to tap the throttle again to bring rpm back up.

The specs you posted sounds like it should be a smooth running cam. I think from the reading ive done years ago when I picked this cam out, 110/112* is about the max for what is considered a smooth idle. with 114* to 119* being factory smooth.

Yeah it has never once idled close to stock. Didnt matter what I did to the carb. I measured the old cam lift and it matches what EPC told me which then transferred to the summit number. I'll check it out real good tomorrow. I'm not changing anything so as far as I know it should idle exactly how I left it.

That being said there are times when it does idle very close to stock. This is usually when it's been running for a long time.

For example:

But usually it idles like that warmed up video, especially when I put it in park. More often than not it has a some lope.

 

[Angelo Voltura]

Yeah it has never once idled close to stock. Didnt matter what I did to the carb. I measured the old cam lift and it matches what EPC told me which then transferred to the summit number. I'll check it out real good tomorrow. I'm not changing anything so as far as I know it should idle exactly how I left it.

That being said there are times when it does idle very close to stock. This is usually when it's been running for a long time.

For example:

But usually it idles like that warmed up video, especially when I put it in park. More often than not it has a some lope.

Well just to give me piece of mind this late at night I went and grabbed both cams and set them side by side to each other. Looks like they are matching. Phew. I feel a little better now.

First picture looks deceiving on the LSA due to the new one being set turned a bit.

E-1225P is this cam. Advertised as fair idle with lope. That would make sense.

Weird how summit advertised it as 1800-5200 but needed a 2000rpm stall...and Elgin says 2000-4800.

[CliftonK]

Well today/yesterday I got the cowl from the donor swapped over, made a hood to cowl seal out of a garage door seal and I got the windshield trim from the donor installed. It's a little rough, got a couple of things I need to redo. I ended up putting in small screws on the left side where 3 studs broke off. They didn't thread in very well and that side is a bit loose. Everything else went well but it didn't help my leak at all. Will have to cut the glass out and reset it looks like. Two days before I went to pick up the truck the guys son who was the primary diver hit a turkey and smashed the windshield so he replaced it with a nice new tinted glass. But whoever installed it didn't clean off the butyl and set the glass too far to the left. They also broke or lost all of the clips. But hey, truck looks nicer. She is running pretty rough today, hoping new shift modulator will clear that up and new shocks will improve the ride. Let you know how it goes this weekend. Been waiting for those parts to put any serious highway miles on her. Oh, for the record. Buy new metal clips for the windshield trim if you can. If not, pay attention to your clips to see if they are bent out of shape. Had to bend the centers of mine back so they would actually apply pressure to the trim.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If I went with the 130A variant it would allow me to upgrade by adding more lights down the road.

Currently im at 35.96A with my high beam on, driving lights on, cb and cb amp on. not including other circuits such as whats on the truck to start with or the fuel injection I will be installing. If I add four more auxiliary lights in the form of daylighters that would be 400 watts which would put my total auxiliary circuit at 67.20A which is quite a bit. Would also require I run a larger than 10ga wire to my auxiliary fuse box which I don't think is possible.

But 130A would give me more wiggle room. The 95A would be cutting it close but I was thinking I could go with LED based lights from KC on my roll bar if I even run one. just probably wont be as bright as the 100w halogen versions.

Ill look at lincolns online, I was looking at a 97 F250 7.5L 95A alternator I think that is the 8 1/4" ear spacing that I need for my '82 with a V belt. Then I found out from rock auto that 92-95 Aerostar is the same. Rock auto has a '92 aerostar alternator by power select without a pulley for $101.95 brand new. I might go with that one if its the same 8 1/4" ear spacing. Photo shows a grey colored regulator so I doubt it is the delayed regulator. it is aftermarket with no markings and it seems they all are grey now.

If I knew 150% without a doubt with the 10 second delay regulator would eliminate belt squeal I would gladly run a 130A alternator. Would mean it will last way longer for me with the limited draw my truck has currently. Even with four more 100w auxiliary lights wouldn't put my whole truck over 80A.

You want an alternator for the 3.8l V-6 Cologne engine, as found in the Taurus/Sable/Lincoln of '92-'93.

I got mine from DB Electrical for ~$65 delivered, with a 1 year warranty.

Please believe me when I say quality aftermarket LED lights will make a 100w KC Highlighter look like a firefly in the next county at 1/5 the wattage.

At 100,....or 400W, it is going to be like you have a thermonuclear bomb mounted to the front of your truck.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Don't tempt me to do something drastic...

Don't grill me cause she ain't a bull :)

Not kidding you, the same buddy who had two Pantera's had a 429 Ranchero with the the tallest dual quad tunnel ram I've ever seen on the street.

It was scary to drive because of the huge blind spot, and of course, the double pumpers hitting the secondaries.

Even with tubs under the tonneau cover it would slew sideways due to the Currie 9" locker.

I have no idea how any of us survived through our 20's.

This guy launched his GTX off the road and into a tree.

Had to hire a crane to recover it.

Man, I'm glad we didn't have cell phones back then.

Video evidence would have the lot of us in jail.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well today/yesterday I got the cowl from the donor swapped over, made a hood to cowl seal out of a garage door seal and I got the windshield trim from the donor installed. It's a little rough, got a couple of things I need to redo. I ended up putting in small screws on the left side where 3 studs broke off. They didn't thread in very well and that side is a bit loose. Everything else went well but it didn't help my leak at all. Will have to cut the glass out and reset it looks like. Two days before I went to pick up the truck the guys son who was the primary diver hit a turkey and smashed the windshield so he replaced it with a nice new tinted glass. But whoever installed it didn't clean off the butyl and set the glass too far to the left. They also broke or lost all of the clips. But hey, truck looks nicer. She is running pretty rough today, hoping new shift modulator will clear that up and new shocks will improve the ride. Let you know how it goes this weekend. Been waiting for those parts to put any serious highway miles on her. Oh, for the record. Buy new metal clips for the windshield trim if you can. If not, pay attention to your clips to see if they are bent out of shape. Had to bend the centers of mine back so they would actually apply pressure to the trim.

The upper clips are not hard to find.

Those ones across the bottom though....

I got all new when I lost the upper left trim piece on my windshield.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary going back to a 1405 would probably be the wise thing to do. As you stated it felt like it had more top end...that's where I'm noticing the lack of. The cam is advertised for very strong low to midrange and it definitely has all of that. But it always seemed like the carb was under-performing. Granted it ran great just a little lackluster. She was all of 300 horsepower, which I thought was respectable for how mild it was.

I'm basically just throwing this thing together so I have something to drive while my other truck is down and so I can build my 429 I bought to replace this engine. It just doesn't make sense to tear this engine down further. The block will need to be bored again, and it's just money I'm not willing to spend on an M engine right now, especially when the big block that inevitably replaces it will generate far more horsepower. If I have a grand tied up into this top end I'll be alright.

By the time the big block goes in, I'll have long since converted to fuel injection.

Rusty - That's why I wanted to tell you that quickly. Having said that, the 130 amp alternator with the 10 second delay regulator won't automatically put out 130 amps. It'll only put out what is needed, so if you don't add a lot of power-consuming devices you won't need that much.

Angelo - Makes sense on staying with the short crank.

[Rusty_S85]

Well just to give me piece of mind this late at night I went and grabbed both cams and set them side by side to each other. Looks like they are matching. Phew. I feel a little better now.

First picture looks deceiving on the LSA due to the new one being set turned a bit.

E-1225P is this cam. Advertised as fair idle with lope. That would make sense.

Weird how summit advertised it as 1800-5200 but needed a 2000rpm stall...and Elgin says 2000-4800.

That's one thing I never got, how do they come up with good/fair/noticeable on the idle. What does that even mean? Its all subjective cause what they label as a good idle might be a stock idle to me. What I label as a noticeable idle might be a fair idle to them.

It makes no sense to me. I know over lap determines the idle quality as well as lobe separation. based off my cam it has quite a bit over lap seat to seat but being a roller cam the valves don't truly start opening till around 0.050" lift which makes the overlap quite small.

All I can go on is that one video I posted of that 5.0 EFI F150 with the same cam I have only difference is hes running full length headers with god knows what magnaflow mufflers in a dual exhaust where mine is shorty street headers to OE y pipe with a OE shaped magnaflow muffler with a single tail pipe.

[Rusty_S85]

You want an alternator for the 3.8l V-6 Cologne engine, as found in the Taurus/Sable/Lincoln of '92-'93.

I got mine from DB Electrical for ~$65 delivered, with a 1 year warranty.

Please believe me when I say quality aftermarket LED lights will make a 100w KC Highlighter look like a firefly in the next county at 1/5 the wattage.

At 100,....or 400W, it is going to be like you have a thermonuclear bomb mounted to the front of your truck.

That's the one with the 8 1/4" spacing with the soft start regulator?

I contacted DB Electrical but they couldn't tell me the spacing on the ears on the one I was looking at.

I know LED lights can be super bright but my problem is I am going for that old '80s look so I am regulating myself to the popular round lights and there just aren't any out there by KC that look right. The daylighters are LEDs on one option but they have I think two single LED bulbs that fire at the reflector that the reflector directs and focuses the light. To me that just doesn't seem as bright as the halogen driving lights I have.

If I had confirmation that they were brighter I would gladly upgrade from my Apollo driving lights to the daylighter driving lights in LED. Would save me some power and allow me to run more lights.

This is the LED Daylighters that KC is offering now, $400 for a pair vs $180 for a pair of halogen. Its why I want to make sure the LED ones are brighter as if I am spending $400 for a pair I expect them to be brighter than the halogen.

https://www.kchilites.com/light-type/daylighter/6-gravity-daylighter-pair-pack-system-pr.html

and a video of a Jeep with the daylighter LED lights.