WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Dee1986]

Jim - Glad you caught those brakes when you did.

And you've laid out a lot of work. Good luck to you. Are you going to report here or start a thread?

Brian - Sorry I called you Dee. Anyway, note how far onto the flywheel the ring gear is before you start. Mine wasn't fully back against the ridge.

No worries, I go by either name. Half my guys call me Dee and half by Brian. Thanks for the tip on the ring gear. I wouldn't have thought to check. Supposed to be on my porch by the time I get home from work, I'll tackle it tonight

[FuzzFace2]

No worries, I go by either name. Half my guys call me Dee and half by Brian. Thanks for the tip on the ring gear. I wouldn't have thought to check. Supposed to be on my porch by the time I get home from work, I'll tackle it tonight

Had a little hart pumping yesterday morning at 4am when I went to start the truck for work.

When turning the key to start I did not go quite to start but must have bumped it as it started to crank and crank and......

Had to get the truck out of gear, release the hood, run around the front knocking stuff on the ground to pop the hood.

I pulled the start wire off, key was turned to off, the solenoid and it still kept cranking.

A little tap from my hand and it stopped cranking.

Fingers crossed and gave it a try and this time truck fired up and starter released when the key was let go. Don't know what that was all about?

It was ok when started to come home later that day and fine today at 1:30 am to work and back.

I don't remember what truck that solenoid came from but think the parts truck with the rest of the wiring harness.

Being I got home early yesterday I gave another try on finding the SROD trans pan cover as I think it will work for my next project, trans swap. Even if I have to cut it I rather cut it than the one in my truck so if I ever want to go back with the T18 I don't have to worry on finding one not cut up.

I wish I knew how long the drive shaft would be so I can have a new one made so I have it in hand for the swap.

Oh I found the pan in the bottom of the 2nd parts bin I looked in. I over looked it the first time as I did not think it would lay flat in the bin

I cleaned off the factory gummy seal, what a job, and wire brushed the rust that was on it.

Dave ----

[Dee1986]

Jim - Glad you caught those brakes when you did.

And you've laid out a lot of work. Good luck to you. Are you going to report here or start a thread?

Brian - Sorry I called you Dee. Anyway, note how far onto the flywheel the ring gear is before you start. Mine wasn't fully back against the ridge.

About 5 minutes with just acetylene and the old one was off. About 8 minutes of heat on the new one and she seated nicely with a couple smacks of my lead hammer.

[Gary Lewis]

About 5 minutes with just acetylene and the old one was off. About 8 minutes of heat on the new one and she seated nicely with a couple smacks of my lead hammer.

Well done!

[Gary Lewis]

Had a little hart pumping yesterday morning at 4am when I went to start the truck for work.

When turning the key to start I did not go quite to start but must have bumped it as it started to crank and crank and......

Had to get the truck out of gear, release the hood, run around the front knocking stuff on the ground to pop the hood.

I pulled the start wire off, key was turned to off, the solenoid and it still kept cranking.

A little tap from my hand and it stopped cranking.

Fingers crossed and gave it a try and this time truck fired up and starter released when the key was let go. Don't know what that was all about?

It was ok when started to come home later that day and fine today at 1:30 am to work and back.

I don't remember what truck that solenoid came from but think the parts truck with the rest of the wiring harness.

Being I got home early yesterday I gave another try on finding the SROD trans pan cover as I think it will work for my next project, trans swap. Even if I have to cut it I rather cut it than the one in my truck so if I ever want to go back with the T18 I don't have to worry on finding one not cut up.

I wish I knew how long the drive shaft would be so I can have a new one made so I have it in hand for the swap.

Oh I found the pan in the bottom of the 2nd parts bin I looked in. I over looked it the first time as I did not think it would lay flat in the bin

I cleaned off the factory gummy seal, what a job, and wire brushed the rust that was on it.

Dave ----

Dave - I missed this. I'd bet that caused the heart to pump! I'd think it is time to change out that relay.

But that's a good find on the tranny cover. It is amazing how well those things can hide!

[scbill]

Had a little hart pumping yesterday morning at 4am when I went to start the truck for work.

When turning the key to start I did not go quite to start but must have bumped it as it started to crank and crank and......

Had to get the truck out of gear, release the hood, run around the front knocking stuff on the ground to pop the hood.

I pulled the start wire off, key was turned to off, the solenoid and it still kept cranking.

A little tap from my hand and it stopped cranking.

Fingers crossed and gave it a try and this time truck fired up and starter released when the key was let go. Don't know what that was all about?

It was ok when started to come home later that day and fine today at 1:30 am to work and back.

I don't remember what truck that solenoid came from but think the parts truck with the rest of the wiring harness.

Being I got home early yesterday I gave another try on finding the SROD trans pan cover as I think it will work for my next project, trans swap. Even if I have to cut it I rather cut it than the one in my truck so if I ever want to go back with the T18 I don't have to worry on finding one not cut up.

I wish I knew how long the drive shaft would be so I can have a new one made so I have it in hand for the swap.

Oh I found the pan in the bottom of the 2nd parts bin I looked in. I over looked it the first time as I did not think it would lay flat in the bin

I cleaned off the factory gummy seal, what a job, and wire brushed the rust that was on it.

Dave ----

Fuzz, Had the same thing happen on mine kept switching off and on til it stopped on it's own. I have the solenoid off of a 93 Aerostar on now, and when it did it, was told it would work ok, hasn't happened since. Think I'll swap it out anyway, I have a new one on hand.

Bill

[85lebaront2]

Fuzz, Had the same thing happen on mine kept switching off and on til it stopped on it's own. I have the solenoid off of a 93 Aerostar on now, and when it did it, was told it would work ok, hasn't happened since. Think I'll swap it out anyway, I have a new one on hand.

Bill

That was the reason for me going to the PMGR starter, to keep from having a Chineseum relay either weld itself together or just flat not connect.

[Rusty_S85]

That was the reason for me going to the PMGR starter, to keep from having a Chineseum relay either weld itself together or just flat not connect.

Im thinking of going the pmgr route for my 306 build cause I am wary of 9.5:1 compression with the OE starter, and the bigger reason, I think the pmgr starters sound great.

As far as the relay goes I haven't had a problem with mine but then again I have always bought BorgWarner for electrical components.

Right now I am thinking about making my own battery cables and using either military or marine terminals on the top post battery. This would allow for an eye to eye connection and I can make multiple connections to power and ground at the battery. Question I keep asking myself though is do I go OE 4ga or do I go with 2ga.

I can get 25feet of 4ga in red or black for $64.41 but if I go for 2ga for 25 feet in red or black it is $104.26. Not including the terminals, eyelets, and the solder slugs to attach it all together.

Company I bought the 140feet of SXL Cross Linked wire for my auxiliary fuse box wiring came out to $48 with shipping.

Trying to decide on the main power wire for the auxiliary fuse box. largest ATC/ATO fuse you can buy is 40A and I feel more comfortable with 60A capability for the fuse box. But I don't believe 6ga battery cable could fit the bussed spade crimps. I think 10ga like I bought would cut it pretty close. I could double up and run two 10ga wires for a 7ga effective size, but then there is the problem if only one leg pops a 40A fuse. Then the other leg would take all the power and pop the fuse as well.

Maybe I am over thinking it but my current circuits for the auxiliary fuse box is right at 35.96A @ 12.8V which I feel is cutting very close to the 40A fuse rating. Only other option would be to get a maxi fuse holder which I don't think would look good as a free hanging holder and run a 6ga wire. I know I will be mounting a AMG fuse on my plastic fender apron where the OEM holes are for the vacuum reservoir that my dealer A/C truck doesn't have. That should keep my 6ga charge wire from the 3G alternator to starter solenoid under 5ft 6 inches which is the limit of 6ga wire at 125A which is the fuse I will be using.

Just wished the economy wasn't so screwed up. Im about at the point of just staying home myself as this is now week three at work with no pay and I just cant buy a whole lot to do anything with my truck. Still have to finish the engine but nope I bought a bunch of wire so I could start working on my auxiliary fuse box.

[Gary Lewis]

Im thinking of going the pmgr route for my 306 build cause I am wary of 9.5:1 compression with the OE starter, and the bigger reason, I think the pmgr starters sound great.

As far as the relay goes I haven't had a problem with mine but then again I have always bought BorgWarner for electrical components.

Right now I am thinking about making my own battery cables and using either military or marine terminals on the top post battery. This would allow for an eye to eye connection and I can make multiple connections to power and ground at the battery. Question I keep asking myself though is do I go OE 4ga or do I go with 2ga.

I can get 25feet of 4ga in red or black for $64.41 but if I go for 2ga for 25 feet in red or black it is $104.26. Not including the terminals, eyelets, and the solder slugs to attach it all together.

Company I bought the 140feet of SXL Cross Linked wire for my auxiliary fuse box wiring came out to $48 with shipping.

Trying to decide on the main power wire for the auxiliary fuse box. largest ATC/ATO fuse you can buy is 40A and I feel more comfortable with 60A capability for the fuse box. But I don't believe 6ga battery cable could fit the bussed spade crimps. I think 10ga like I bought would cut it pretty close. I could double up and run two 10ga wires for a 7ga effective size, but then there is the problem if only one leg pops a 40A fuse. Then the other leg would take all the power and pop the fuse as well.

Maybe I am over thinking it but my current circuits for the auxiliary fuse box is right at 35.96A @ 12.8V which I feel is cutting very close to the 40A fuse rating. Only other option would be to get a maxi fuse holder which I don't think would look good as a free hanging holder and run a 6ga wire. I know I will be mounting a AMG fuse on my plastic fender apron where the OEM holes are for the vacuum reservoir that my dealer A/C truck doesn't have. That should keep my 6ga charge wire from the 3G alternator to starter solenoid under 5ft 6 inches which is the limit of 6ga wire at 125A which is the fuse I will be using.

Just wished the economy wasn't so screwed up. Im about at the point of just staying home myself as this is now week three at work with no pay and I just cant buy a whole lot to do anything with my truck. Still have to finish the engine but nope I bought a bunch of wire so I could start working on my auxiliary fuse box.

I made three battery cables today. I used 2 gauge for the ground to the block and from there to the frame, and 4 gauge from the battery to the fender. And the positive cable is #2 as well, but I made it a few days ago.

Here are the components I used.

Here's the 16-ton crimping tool:

And here are the cables. The positive cable goes to the power distribution box you can see to one side of the 175 amp mega fuse. The #2 starter cable comes off of there.

The little ground is the #4 and it goes to the ground stud on the fender. The #2 goes down to the block and from there to the frame.

[Rusty_S85]

I made three battery cables today. I used 2 gauge for the ground to the block and from there to the frame, and 4 gauge from the battery to the fender. And the positive cable is #2 as well, but I made it a few days ago.

Here are the components I used.

Here's the 16-ton crimping tool:

And here are the cables. The positive cable goes to the power distribution box you can see to one side of the 175 amp mega fuse. The #2 starter cable comes off of there.

The little ground is the #4 and it goes to the ground stud on the fender. The #2 goes down to the block and from there to the frame.

Looks good. That's kind of how we do them at work, we just don't crimp them though. We drop the correct sized slug in the eyelet and heat it with a torch adding another pellet if need be then hit the bare wire of the cable with the torch to preheat it some then stick the wire in the solder let cool then shrink wrap it.

That's how I would do mine. But I still have the OE style battery so my options would be like we do at work which is use marine terminals which I don't like the stud sticking up or I found these from Wiring Depot where I bought my bulk SXL wire from.

https://www.wiringdepot.com/ordnance-/-military-bolt-type-battery-terminals.aspx

I kind of like this one, it has a nice long bolt for more hook ups, and the bolt is to the side which keeps it low profile. Only problem is I don't know if a terminal cover will fit over it which the same place carries.

Then again I was also thinking about just using pre made battery terminal ends with a pig tail coming out so I can solder a ground wire for the cluster of relay grounds and horn grounds at my auxiliary fuse box to this lead for a good ground for everything. Headlight grounds from my relay kit I am thinking of running down to the block and stacking a single eyelet over the battery cable ground along with a ground cable from the 3G alternator.

The power wire pig tail is what I really need so I can run my 10ga wire which I keep thinking is too small to provide power for my auxiliary fuse box circuits.

Then I was looking at KC Lighting and see they got some round lights that many use as under hood lights, I thought of using them with a push button switch under the hood to turn them on and off. But that's more load on that 10ga wire for my fuse box. Then I saw the rock crawler lights which I have no use for but could be something nice to have if I ever went to that RWP event up in north Texas some day.