85lebaront2 Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Dave - Progress is good, as Jim says. And, I'll bet the ammeter works now - at least as well as it ever did. As for what I am doing, here's a mid-day report. Found this lump dangling from the shop crane: Not sure what it is, but it left a mess so I thought it might be a Harley. Then I spotted the anti-freeze and decided it must be a 460. Next up, once the engine is on the stand, is to get the cab down and on the frame - and then finish taking the tranny's crossmember off. Started to take it off now, and the frame wants to come together in the back. But, once the cab is on and the whole thing is in the air I can pull the crossmember w/o worry and clean up the mess. Then, I'll cut the top off for Darin/Oz. After that, I'll make sure I have everything I want, throw a couple of sheets of ply on the new trailer, and take it to the salvage. Whole lot bigger and heavier than a 335 isn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 Whole lot bigger and heavier than a 335 isn't it? Bigger and heavier. Wow! Ok, got the tranny crossmember off, which will go with the tranny to Dad's truck. And I got the engine on the stand. Now I have to accurately measure where the holes are for the crossmember to ensure I get it where it should be on Dad's truck. And, strip a few more things off the frame and it'll be time to lower the cab back down and bolt it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Bigger and heavier. Wow! Ok, got the tranny crossmember off, which will go with the tranny to Dad's truck. And I got the engine on the stand. Now I have to accurately measure where the holes are for the crossmember to ensure I get it where it should be on Dad's truck. And, strip a few more things off the frame and it'll be time to lower the cab back down and bolt it on. Gary, mine ended up being 7" further back that the C6 if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 Gary, mine ended up being 7" further back that the C6 if that helps. Yes, it is 7" farther back than the C6 and 6" farther back than the ZF5. I took lots of measurements, but the plan is to lay the engine/tranny combo in, gently, with the cab raised on the lift. I'll block the back of the tranny with the engine sitting on its mounts, and then insert the crossmember where it needs to be rather than where the measurements say. But, I'll have the measurements for reference. Anyway, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Yes, it is 7" farther back than the C6 and 6" farther back than the ZF5. I took lots of measurements, but the plan is to lay the engine/tranny combo in, gently, with the cab raised on the lift. I'll block the back of the tranny with the engine sitting on its mounts, and then insert the crossmember where it needs to be rather than where the measurements say. But, I'll have the measurements for reference. Anyway, thanks. Yesterday I had a little issue where the throttle got stuck open (a few times) Given I discerned it was not the cable or the primary side, I pulled the carb this morning and noted a few bright spots on the edge of the secondary butterflies. A sanding roll enlarged the throats of my Trans-Dapt spacer, and the problem hasn't returned. I would also note that my valves start to float somewhere between 5,700-5,900 rpm. It did make for some exciting moments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 Yesterday I had a little issue where the throttle got stuck open (a few times) Given I discerned it was not the cable or the primary side, I pulled the carb this morning and noted a few bright spots on the edge of the secondary butterflies. A sanding roll enlarged the throats of my Trans-Dapt spacer, and the problem hasn't returned. I would also note that my valves start to float somewhere between 5,700-5,900 rpm. It did make for some exciting moments. Oh no! That's winding a 460 a bit. Glad the governor kicked in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Yes, it is 7" farther back than the C6 and 6" farther back than the ZF5. I took lots of measurements, but the plan is to lay the engine/tranny combo in, gently, with the cab raised on the lift. I'll block the back of the tranny with the engine sitting on its mounts, and then insert the crossmember where it needs to be rather than where the measurements say. But, I'll have the measurements for reference. Anyway, thanks. You might also want to pre-install the top bolts for the cross member gussets before you set the cab back down, they are not reachable to remove or install then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Yesterday I had a little issue where the throttle got stuck open (a few times) Given I discerned it was not the cable or the primary side, I pulled the carb this morning and noted a few bright spots on the edge of the secondary butterflies. A sanding roll enlarged the throats of my Trans-Dapt spacer, and the problem hasn't returned. I would also note that my valves start to float somewhere between 5,700-5,900 rpm. It did make for some exciting moments. I did that with my 390, no tach, C6 had a passenger car governor by mistake (someone built it for me in payment for a Mercedes-Benz transmission I built for his shop). Damn thing wound up so far it floated the valves and started popping in both directions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 You might also want to pre-install the top bolts for the cross member gussets before you set the cab back down, they are not reachable to remove or install then. I'll have the whole cross member in place before the cab comes back down on Dad's truck. I will say that having the cab off when doing the E4OD swap looks to be the best way to do it. One reason is that the cross section of the frame on the Bullnose F150 is different at that point than the Bricknose 250's frame. So, it will be a bit of trial-fitting to get it to go where I think it should and I may have to make some mod's on the piece that attaches on the left side. Speaking of that, I might ought to explain to others that the E4OD cross member sits on the bottom lip of the frame on the left side and has a brace that then attaches to the bottom side of the top lip - just like the C6 and other cross members do. But, on the right side the cross member goes under the frame and turns up, with three bolts then going through the upturned lip of the cross member and then the side of the frame from the outside. So, it isn't a bolt-in as there aren't any holes for it on the Bullnose frame, and I'll have to determine where they should be and then drill them - which will be far easier with the cab off. (But you already know that, Bill.) Now, I'll admit that when I first read your post I did a flash-back to yesterday when I dropped the cab back down on Huck's frame - and discovered that either the frame or the cab had moved considerably while they were separated. My first thought was how in the world I was going to move them, but then I just picked up one side of the cab and slide it around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 9, 2017 Author Share Posted December 9, 2017 I'll have the whole cross member in place before the cab comes back down on Dad's truck. I will say that having the cab off when doing the E4OD swap looks to be the best way to do it. One reason is that the cross section of the frame on the Bullnose F150 is different at that point than the Bricknose 250's frame. So, it will be a bit of trial-fitting to get it to go where I think it should and I may have to make some mod's on the piece that attaches on the left side. Speaking of that, I might ought to explain to others that the E4OD cross member sits on the bottom lip of the frame on the left side and has a brace that then attaches to the bottom side of the top lip - just like the C6 and other cross members do. But, on the right side the cross member goes under the frame and turns up, with three bolts then going through the upturned lip of the cross member and then the side of the frame from the outside. So, it isn't a bolt-in as there aren't any holes for it on the Bullnose frame, and I'll have to determine where they should be and then drill them - which will be far easier with the cab off. (But you already know that, Bill.) Now, I'll admit that when I first read your post I did a flash-back to yesterday when I dropped the cab back down on Huck's frame - and discovered that either the frame or the cab had moved considerably while they were separated. My first thought was how in the world I was going to move them, but then I just picked up one side of the cab and slide it around. What have I done today? Not much to the truck. In fact, nothing specifically to either of them. But, I did put a reed valve kit in a compressor that was given to me 'cause it didn't compress, and it'll be for my son. Plus, as I was looking around for air compressor things to go with it I found a portable air tank that should work nicely on Big Blue as the tank for on-board air. Then I played with gasoline and electricity to see how the pumps work, and am pleased to say that I didn't start a fire. In fact, I was able to determine which pumps I want to use. Last, I started playing with TurboCAD to draw up the fog lamp bezel. I'm sorry to say that I've forgotten all I thought I knew about 3D drawing. This is going to be a challenge. So, guys, don't hold your breath. We will get there in the end, but "the end" ain't soon. Bill - Your write up on Darth is looking good! Lots of good info in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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