ArdWrknTrk Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 You didn't rib me for using antiseize??? You're slipping Gary! I missed it. But, now that you mention it I can see it. Well done! Stainless galls like crazy, and anerobics don't prevent that. I hope to get this hanger back off at some point... or I would just weld the pipe to the bracket. So, antiseize or Honda moly-60 The only things that work on exhaust manifolds are brass nuts or copper plated exhaust bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 Stainless galls like crazy, and anerobics don't prevent that. I hope to get this hanger back off at some point... or I would just weld the pipe to the bracket. So, antiseize or Honda moly-60 The only things that work on exhaust manifolds are brass nuts or copper plated exhaust bolts. The fog light relay may morph into a power distribution/relay box if things keep going the way they are.... Life seems frustrating enough, but at every turn there is a choice of path to follow. Redoing my headlamp harness and getting those relays out of the weather, as well as freeing up space behind the battery and eliminating the (now PMGR overkill) starter relay would not only help immensely, but I could use the megafuse holder too! That would clear up ALL the wiring on the right fender. I'd just have to work out the fusible links Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 The 6" wagon wheels will be just right for me but the 7" wheels would work as well I just don't want to end up with the 8" wagon wheels which would be uncommon and unwanted for my purposes. Gary, when you get that engine running a video of it's idle would be nice to hear. It should sound great and be a good runner. I will get a video, for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 The fog light relay may morph into a power distribution/relay box if things keep going the way they are.... Life seems frustrating enough, but at every turn there is a choice of path to follow. Redoing my headlamp harness and getting those relays out of the weather, as well as freeing up space behind the battery and eliminating the (now PMGR overkill) starter relay would not only help immensely, but I could use the megafuse holder too! That would clear up ALL the wiring on the right fender. I'd just have to work out the fusible links I understand on the anti-seize. You don't have to sell me. Which reminds me, I got the stainless bolts for the water pump yesterday, but what did you say you coat them with? Thread sealer or anti-seize? As for the PDB/relay box, I think that's a good idea. However, there are larger boxes that not only have the relays and megafuse, but big fuses that can take the place of the fuseble links. As said to The Scatch, that's my plan for both BB awa Dad's truck. Just have to work out what size fuse to use for fuseble link replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 I understand on the anti-seize. You don't have to sell me. Which reminds me, I got the stainless bolts for the water pump yesterday, but what did you say you coat them with? Thread sealer or anti-seize? As for the PDB/relay box, I think that's a good idea. However, there are larger boxes that not only have the relays and megafuse, but big fuses that can take the place of the fuseble links. As said to The Scatch, that's my plan for both BB awa Dad's truck. Just have to work out what size fuse to use for fuseble link replacement. I use PST on any bolts in the timing case/water pump. The torque is low and it's not stainless on stainless, which is a problem. (Like the U-bolt I fixed this hanger with) As for one with more fuses (there is one for each relay, not installed, on the left side) I'm sticking with fuselinks. They are there to protect the harness, and while the undersized wire may have resistance the circuit was designed with that in mind. Their insulation is rated much higher than the regular PVC is at @ 105°C. ***I'm going to need a terminal block though*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 I use PST on any bolts in the timing case/water pump. The torque is low and it's not stainless on stainless, which is a problem. (Like the U-bolt I fixed this hanger with) As for one with more fuses (there is one for each relay, not installed, on the left side) I'm sticking with fuselinks. They are there to protect the harness, and while the undersized wire may have resistance the circuit was designed with that in mind. Their insulation is rated much higher than the regular PVC is at @ 105°C. ***I'm going to need a terminal block though*** It's a snotty weld, sue me! I don't have any stainless flux core wire yet, and that Lincoln wire doesn't seem to like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 I use PST on any bolts in the timing case/water pump. The torque is low and it's not stainless on stainless, which is a problem. (Like the U-bolt I fixed this hanger with) As for one with more fuses (there is one for each relay, not installed, on the left side) I'm sticking with fuselinks. They are there to protect the harness, and while the undersized wire may have resistance the circuit was designed with that in mind. Their insulation is rated much higher than the regular PVC is at @ 105°C. ***I'm going to need a terminal block though*** ow about using a PDB with fuses and stick fuses in with higher ratings than the fusible links and then connect the links to the wires from those fuses? No need for a terminal block? (Just thinking....) You've said "PST" several times, but is this the stuff? Loctite 56747 PST Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 ow about using a PDB with fuses and stick fuses in with higher ratings than the fusible links and then connect the links to the wires from those fuses? No need for a terminal block? (Just thinking....) You've said "PST" several times, but is this the stuff? Loctite 56747 PST There are three varieties of PST to my knowledge. I use the high temp, fuel proof one rated and recommended for pipelines and refineries. Not sure of the number off the top of my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 ow about using a PDB with fuses and stick fuses in with higher ratings than the fusible links and then connect the links to the wires from those fuses? No need for a terminal block? (Just thinking....) You've said "PST" several times, but is this the stuff? Loctite 56747 PST Somehow I think getting the 2/0 cables to and from the megafuse *inside* the pdb is going to be an issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 Somehow I think getting the 2/0 cables to and from the megafuse *inside* the pdb is going to be an issue... All the PDB's I've seen have the megafuse on the outside on two studs. One of the studs is also the buss into the PDB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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