Gary Lewis Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Today I counted my pushrods...I came up with 12, which seems like a good number for a 300: This is the start of regasketing the valve and pushrod covers. They don't leak badly, but there's a regular sheen of oil on the engine that I'd like to eliminate if possible. Also: The valve cover is even rattier (plus has a touch of rust as well), so I'll try my hand at painting them before they go back on. Good start! What kind of gaskets are you using? Any sealer? Plans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Good start! What kind of gaskets are you using? Any sealer? Plans? I have found it is easier to R/R the push rod cover if the distributor cap is removed [set aside, leaving sparkplug wires intact]. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsai Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Good start! What kind of gaskets are you using? Any sealer? Plans? My usual - Fel-Pro. Although the last time I did this I got synthetic gaskets, this time they're a rubber/cork composite of some kind. I'm not a huge fan of cork, but I like the look and feel of these so I'll give them a try. As for sealer, just a thin layer of RTV bonding the gaskets to the covers, I'll leave the engine side dry. No plans beyond not having them leak. I have found it is easier to R/R the push rod cover if the distributor cap is removed [set aside, leaving sparkplug wires intact]. Agreed, and the cap will come off when the cover goes back on - it's easier to maneuver without it being in the way. But I don't find it a problem during removal and I had just been in there with the pressure washer, so I left it on for protective purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Good start! What kind of gaskets are you using? Any sealer? Plans? My usual - Fel-Pro. Although the last time I did this I got synthetic gaskets, this time they're a rubber/cork composite of some kind. I'm not a huge fan of cork, but I like the look and feel of these so I'll give them a try. As for sealer, just a thin layer of RTV bonding the gaskets to the covers, I'll leave the engine side dry. No plans beyond not having them leak. I have found it is easier to R/R the push rod cover if the distributor cap is removed [set aside, leaving sparkplug wires intact]. Agreed, and the cap will come off when the cover goes back on - it's easier to maneuver without it being in the way. But I don't find it a problem during removal and I had just been in there with the pressure washer, so I left it on for protective purposes. Bear in mind that RTV is an excellent lube when not cured. I like to use it to ensure I get a good seal, and put it on both sides of a gasket and then put the gasket and cover in place and run the fasteners in finger tight. Let it sit overnight and then torque it the next day after the RTV has set up. On thin covers, make sure they aren't dimpled from too much torque on the fasteners. If so, gently flatten them with a small hammer before installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Today I counted my pushrods...I came up with 12, which seems like a good number for a 300: This is the start of regasketing the valve and pushrod covers. They don't leak badly, but there's a regular sheen of oil on the engine that I'd like to eliminate if possible. Also: The valve cover is even rattier (plus has a touch of rust as well), so I'll try my hand at painting them before they go back on. 12, yes good count, but I know some V8 engines with 17 pushrods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsai Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 On thin covers, make sure they aren't dimpled from too much torque on the fasteners. If so, gently flatten them with a small hammer before installation. I was going to say that I had nothing to worry about, since I was quite careful with the torque the last time I was in there. But I decided to take a closer look at the pushrod cover this afternoon, and darned if it wasn't warped. I suspect that after Cletus was done stripping my transmission filter bolt back in the day he decided to make sure everything was "nice and tight" on the engine. I'm surprised I haven't had more leaks than I have. I was able to get it back fairly straight with the bench vise, but it's of course not perfect. I think I will use RTV on both sides after all. Also, paint hides many flaws: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 On thin covers, make sure they aren't dimpled from too much torque on the fasteners. If so, gently flatten them with a small hammer before installation. I was going to say that I had nothing to worry about, since I was quite careful with the torque the last time I was in there. But I decided to take a closer look at the pushrod cover this afternoon, and darned if it wasn't warped. I suspect that after Cletus was done stripping my transmission filter bolt back in the day he decided to make sure everything was "nice and tight" on the engine. I'm surprised I haven't had more leaks than I have. I was able to get it back fairly straight with the bench vise, but it's of course not perfect. I think I will use RTV on both sides after all. Also, paint hides many flaws: Looking good, Matthew! And I think using RTV on both sides is a good idea. It fills the valleys that all of these stamped pieces have by now and provides a better seal. Just don't torque it down until the RTV sets up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 On thin covers, make sure they aren't dimpled from too much torque on the fasteners. If so, gently flatten them with a small hammer before installation. I was going to say that I had nothing to worry about, since I was quite careful with the torque the last time I was in there. But I decided to take a closer look at the pushrod cover this afternoon, and darned if it wasn't warped. I suspect that after Cletus was done stripping my transmission filter bolt back in the day he decided to make sure everything was "nice and tight" on the engine. I'm surprised I haven't had more leaks than I have. I was able to get it back fairly straight with the bench vise, but it's of course not perfect. I think I will use RTV on both sides after all. Also, paint hides many flaws: looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 looks great! Jumping back a couple pages to Jim's wiper posts. Do new motors not come with a gasket? My motor works fine but the gasket is crusty. If they do have to be made - any good suggestions? Really thick weatherstripping tape? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Jumping back a couple pages to Jim's wiper posts. Do new motors not come with a gasket? My motor works fine but the gasket is crusty. If they do have to be made - any good suggestions? Really thick weatherstripping tape? This (cheapest of) eBay wiper motors came with a thick neoprene gasket already installed. Sorry I just showed a quick snap of it in place. I've been pressed for time lately, and I had already documented R&R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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