WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

We got Scott's truck apart this evening and found that it really wasn't the pressure plate that was bad. When 1/3 of the friction material is missing on the back side the pressure plate doesn't sit evenly and the fingers won't be even. :nabble_smiley_sad:So, he's to pick up a clutch kit tomorrow and we will install it tomorrow night. But, he's also to find a pilot bearing remover so we can replace that as well.

Just drive grease in with a drift

 

On Oct 9, 2017 10:48 PM, "Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts]" <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[Gary Lewis]

I told Scott about that trick, but explained that the times I’ve tried it the result was grease going everywhere. 😮 So we didn’t try it. But, if he doesn’t find the right tool we will try it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I told Scott about that trick, but explained that the times I’ve tried it the result was grease going everywhere. 😮 So we didn’t try it. But, if he doesn’t find the right tool we will try it.

You have a lathe..

You can make it fit just right.

Or try water soaked paper towels, or wonder bread.

I can't tell you how many inside jaw pilot bearing pullers I've broken, or how many bushings I've completely torn the corner off of.

The last time I changed my clutch I ended up drilling and tapping two places on the bush and using 6x1 bolts with the threads ground off the end to push the pilot out of the crank flange.

[Gary Lewis]

You have a lathe..

You can make it fit just right.

Or try water soaked paper towels, or wonder bread.

I can't tell you how many inside jaw pilot bearing pullers I've broken, or how many bushings I've completely torn the corner off of.

The last time I changed my clutch I ended up drilling and tapping two places on the bush and using 6x1 bolts with the threads ground off the end to push the pilot out of the crank flange.

I’ve heard about the wet paper approach, but not about using Wonder bread - which I think is probably the best use of it I’ve ever heard. 😈 (I grew up on that stuff, but after moving to England for two years and eating real bread I do not like it at all.)

And, with the lathe I could turn a bolt or rod down to just fit pretty easily. So, I could give that a try today. Scott won’t be over until this eve so I can see if I can get it out and we’ll be ready to put things together when he gets here.

All right, you talked me into it. 😬

[Gary Lewis]

I’ve heard about the wet paper approach, but not about using Wonder bread - which I think is probably the best use of it I’ve ever heard. 😈 (I grew up on that stuff, but after moving to England for two years and eating real bread I do not like it at all.)

And, with the lathe I could turn a bolt or rod down to just fit pretty easily. So, I could give that a try today. Scott won’t be over until this eve so I can see if I can get it out and we’ll be ready to put things together when he gets here.

All right, you talked me into it. 😬

When Scott got here with the clutch kit and puller I mention the grease and punch trick. He said that everyone he talked to said that was the way to do it. So we tried, and grease went everywhere. We think the difference is needle bearing vs bushing. We can both see that with a bushing there's no where for the grease to go, but with needle bearings it just squirts out between the bearings and the punch.

So, we tried the puller, and the first thing we noticed was that there was no way to use the long slide hammer since we still have the tranny under the truck. So we fashioned a slide hammer out of a short piece of rod, threaded 5/8-16 on one end to match the puller, and with heavy washers welded to it as a stop on the other. Then we slide a piece of heavy 3" channel over it and put it in. Sure enough, with a few blows the guts of the bearing came out. So we put it in again on the shell and after a few more blows it came out as well.

Here's what it looks like:

Once that was out we thought we had it made as the new parts went in like clockwork. But, then the tranny/t-case combo fought us when we tried to put it back in. Ultimately we won, but not without a battle.

[ArdWrknTrk]

When Scott got here with the clutch kit and puller I mention the grease and punch trick. He said that everyone he talked to said that was the way to do it. So we tried, and grease went everywhere. We think the difference is needle bearing vs bushing. We can both see that with a bushing there's no where for the grease to go, but with needle bearings it just squirts out between the bearings and the punch.

So, we tried the puller, and the first thing we noticed was that there was no way to use the long slide hammer since we still have the tranny under the truck. So we fashioned a slide hammer out of a short piece of rod, threaded 5/8-16 on one end to match the puller, and with heavy washers welded to it as a stop on the other. Then we slide a piece of heavy 3" channel over it and put it in. Sure enough, with a few blows the guts of the bearing came out. So we put it in again on the shell and after a few more blows it came out as well.

Here's what it looks like:

Once that was out we thought we had it made as the new parts went in like clockwork. But, then the tranny/t-case combo fought us when we tried to put it back in. Ultimately we won, but not without a battle.

Victory is yours! (and Scott's)

In the past I've thought about a stubby D-handle slide hammer with a tap on the other end, that you could screw right in to the bush.

Not, a "tap" because too brittle, but similar self tapping bolt?

The handle would allow you to turn the threaded end into whatever needed removing.

You could use it for all sorts of things (like inner hub seals) that don't need a lot of force if you had interchangeable ends.

Maybe drill a hole lengthwise through a 5-6# hammer head?

[85lebaront2]

Victory is yours! (and Scott's)

In the past I've thought about a stubby D-handle slide hammer with a tap on the other end, that you could screw right in to the bush.

Not, a "tap" because too brittle, but similar self tapping bolt?

The handle would allow you to turn the threaded end into whatever needed removing.

You could use it for all sorts of things (like inner hub seals) that don't need a lot of force if you had interchangeable ends.

Maybe drill a hole lengthwise through a 5-6# hammer head?

Somewhere, probably still in Newport News I had a very nice set of blind hole pullers. They were a shaft with a lip on the end and were split down the middle, then closed together at the end so they would fit in the hole. A rounded end bolt with a male thread to fit the puller section and a female thread on the end for a puller bolt that passed through a bridge so a nut could be tightened to extract the bearing or bushing. Worked great on most clutch jobs I did.

[Gary Lewis]

Somewhere, probably still in Newport News I had a very nice set of blind hole pullers. They were a shaft with a lip on the end and were split down the middle, then closed together at the end so they would fit in the hole. A rounded end bolt with a male thread to fit the puller section and a female thread on the end for a puller bolt that passed through a bridge so a nut could be tightened to extract the bearing or bushing. Worked great on most clutch jobs I did.

Bill - That’s a good description of the head of the puller Scott borrowed. It had the fingers that were jammed apart with a ball-end on the screw, which had a 5/8-16 female thread on the other end.

Jim - That’s sorta what we made. We threaded a ~6” rod 5/8-16 on one end and welded two heavy washers on the other. Two for extra strength as the first weld didn’t hold. Scott really burned the welds in the second time. Then that piece of heavy 3” channel went on, and it probably came close to 5#, but since it was thin it took up a lot less front/rear room than a hammer head would - and we didn’t have much room with the tranny under there. And, it was successful. 👍

If we had this to do over again we would have taken the t-case off and then removed the tranny - with the bellhousing attached. The weight of the cast iron NP205 plus the cast iron NP435 plus the cast iron bellhousing is huge, and makes working with them tough. And with the t-case hung off to the left things tend to rotate. But had we removed the t-case we could then have lifted the tranny and probably gotten the crossmember out. Then the tranny & bellhousing would have been easy to remove. And getting the machined front of the tranny to go into the bellhousing took some gentle persuasion. 😜

[ArdWrknTrk]

6,300 on that oil.

Better in the oil than sludge in my engine.

I'm up in Trumbull now.

Well, the 32k efi engine I got has a cracked block

I did buy a pair of heads on eBay.

Should keep me busy.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, the 32k efi engine I got has a cracked block

I did buy a pair of heads on eBay.

Should keep me busy.

Bummer! Hope you didn’t pay much for the block.