Gary Lewis Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 I had to go into a few of them, I had two cars and a truck with the tilt wheel columns, a 1970 LTD Brougham, a 1971 Colony Park and Darth, all had the same style column. The LTD and Colony Park had the rim blow horn steering wheel. They are much worse than a Saginaw column to work on, however do not seem to suffer the same problem the Saginaw ones had, where the 4 bolts that hold the tilt collar (bottom section) to the tube loosen resulting in a steering wheel that literally flops around. The tilt wheel in Darth is the 1992-96/7 one, which is a lot sturdier, but still is not recommended that you pull on it getting in or out. The Chrysler has a Saginaw tilt column with a key release lever (floor shift). I added the factory shop manual's instructions to the Interior/Steering Column page on the Instructions tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 I added the factory shop manual's instructions to the Interior/Steering Column page on the Instructions tab. Is this supposed to be in the Merry Christmas thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 Is this supposed to be in the Merry Christmas thread? Actually in both places. This was in response to Steve’s question about what my manuals have with regard to the steering column. After looking at mine I decided the easiest, most accurate way to answer was to post that section. Then I ran out the door for a carb test, more of which later, and forgot the other thread. I’ll post it in a bit. Thanks for reminding me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Gary, that is why Darth (who is shorter than Big Blue by the height of the spacer blocks for 4WD) is tall enough that even using the very solid DeeZee running boards it is still a hoist yourself job to get in. I salvaged a very sturdy set of assist handles from a conversion van and have one over each door opening. Today I spent a couple hours doing what I told myself I would never do again. When I upgraded to dual shocks on my F150, I had to fight all of the bucked rivets to remove the single shock towers. Told myself I would never do that again and that was that. Since I'm going to be running a straight axle in my F?50, I have no use for the coil/shock towers. So, guess what I did today? Yep, I fought bucked rivets. Luckily, thanks to my previous experience with them, this time went much smoother. I ended up just cutting an "X" into the head of every rivet and then hitting the four pieces one at a time with a chisel and a 3lb sledge. That worked pretty well although an air chisel would have been much quicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 Today I spent a couple hours doing what I told myself I would never do again. When I upgraded to dual shocks on my F150, I had to fight all of the bucked rivets to remove the single shock towers. Told myself I would never do that again and that was that. Since I'm going to be running a straight axle in my F?50, I have no use for the coil/shock towers. So, guess what I did today? Yep, I fought bucked rivets. Luckily, thanks to my previous experience with them, this time went much smoother. I ended up just cutting an "X" into the head of every rivet and then hitting the four pieces one at a time with a chisel and a 3lb sledge. That worked pretty well although an air chisel would have been much quicker. I thought you were the one that cut the head off, drilled a 1/4" hole in the rivet at least frame deep, and then knocked it out with a punch. But, good to know you have it down to a science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 I thought you were the one that cut the head off, drilled a 1/4" hole in the rivet at least frame deep, and then knocked it out with a punch. But, good to know you have it down to a science. This caption is Ford's procedure: https://supermotors.net/getfile/260055/thumbnail/rivetreplacement.jpg But I usually grind the head off, and air-hammer it out (dodging the ricochet). I probably knocked 30 out of this frame before I cut it into 4 pieces: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1134006/thumbnail/20180529_180733.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 This caption is Ford's procedure: https://supermotors.net/getfile/260055/thumbnail/rivetreplacement.jpg But I usually grind the head off, and air-hammer it out (dodging the ricochet). I probably knocked 30 out of this frame before I cut it into 4 pieces: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1134006/thumbnail/20180529_180733.jpg Steve - There's something wrong with your links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Steve - There's something wrong with your links. Yeah, it looks like SMN is down at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Yeah, it looks like SMN is down at the moment. When I looked earlier, the first link worked, the second did not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 I thought you were the one that cut the head off, drilled a 1/4" hole in the rivet at least frame deep, and then knocked it out with a punch. But, good to know you have it down to a science. That was definitely me Gary. Not sure why I drilled them, it's not necessary at all. lol. That's 80% of why it took me so long last time. Haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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