ArdWrknTrk Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Will you do the bushings before the engine? Engine *out* is about the only way I'd want to change them. There is close to 800 lbs less weighing down on them (if you count the radiator/coolant, and the Zf being up on a jack) ... and I'll have access to both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Will you do the bushings before the engine? Engine *out* is about the only way I'd want to change them. There is close to 800 lbs less weighing down on them (if you count the radiator/coolant, and the Zf being up on a jack) ... and I'll have access to both sides. Makes sense to me. And it is what I expected, but wasn't sure. Keep us posted on the progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Makes sense to me. And it is what I expected, but wasn't sure. Keep us posted on the progress. I'll make a thread when, and if, any actual progress gets made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Will you do the bushings before the engine? Engine *out* is about the only way I'd want to change them. There is close to 800 lbs less weighing down on them (if you count the radiator/coolant, and the Zf being up on a jack) ... and I'll have access to both sides. Jim, last time I looked, the 460 weight was given at 865 lbs, assuming that is the carbureted version with iron intake, even the EFI wouldn't be much less. As for Darth, I had ordered what NPD listed as a complete lock set for a 1996 F-series since that is what the column and door locks came from. When I received it, the ignition lock was fine, door locks?? Maybe an E-series, anyway I sent them back. The reason for wanting to change them, I only had one key (not original) when I got them and the local ACE hardware's key machine cuts roughly 1/32" short so a key they make needs to be pulled back a little to work. After sending them back I called Kool Ford with the code on the ignition lock, they could not find that listed anywhere. I took the key and Darth up there and had him make me one new Ford key from the best side of the copy I had, worked perfectly! I told him go do one more, paid for them and now have two nice Ford keys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Jim, last time I looked, the 460 weight was given at 865 lbs, assuming that is the carbureted version with iron intake, even the EFI wouldn't be much less. As for Darth, I had ordered what NPD listed as a complete lock set for a 1996 F-series since that is what the column and door locks came from. When I received it, the ignition lock was fine, door locks?? Maybe an E-series, anyway I sent them back. The reason for wanting to change them, I only had one key (not original) when I got them and the local ACE hardware's key machine cuts roughly 1/32" short so a key they make needs to be pulled back a little to work. After sending them back I called Kool Ford with the code on the ignition lock, they could not find that listed anywhere. I took the key and Darth up there and had him make me one new Ford key from the best side of the copy I had, worked perfectly! I told him go do one more, paid for them and now have two nice Ford keys. Well my aluminum intake probably weighs 40# less than the stocker, but we are still talking close to 1000# less on the front end with the engine out. And MUCH better access. 250's ride rough because of the very stiff reverse arch springs and the shackles being in front. If I was ready to do the D60 swap I would use Sky's No Panhard RSK and be done with it, getting better turning radius in the process. Right now I need to address the leaky oil pan and the ticking without a garage or driveway, or much downtime. I think a 32k bottom end with the 7cc dish pistons and refurbished heads with some Scotty style exhaust porting would be a blessing. I also need to address the drivers floor before salt season rolls around again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 Jim, last time I looked, the 460 weight was given at 865 lbs, assuming that is the carbureted version with iron intake, even the EFI wouldn't be much less. As for Darth, I had ordered what NPD listed as a complete lock set for a 1996 F-series since that is what the column and door locks came from. When I received it, the ignition lock was fine, door locks?? Maybe an E-series, anyway I sent them back. The reason for wanting to change them, I only had one key (not original) when I got them and the local ACE hardware's key machine cuts roughly 1/32" short so a key they make needs to be pulled back a little to work. After sending them back I called Kool Ford with the code on the ignition lock, they could not find that listed anywhere. I took the key and Darth up there and had him make me one new Ford key from the best side of the copy I had, worked perfectly! I told him go do one more, paid for them and now have two nice Ford keys. Hmmm, 1000 lbs. And my 400 weighs 650 according to Tim. And puts out similar power - according to Tim. Said a week ago tomorrow - "I'm not 400 biased but I am Ford biased. And you can build a 400 to do anything a 460 will do." But, I have one of both so we shall see what I think when I get Dad's truck going. 😎 Bill - Even my local Ace Hardward can cut good keys for our trucks. I'd stay away from the place that makes the short ones. Jim - That's an interesting approach on the springs. Do you know how much difference in ride that makes? How about in steering? Several here have suggested that input a lift kit on the front of Big Blue to even out the stance. And that 2" lift would be about right, and would lower the drawbar height for trailers. Hmmmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Hmmm, 1000 lbs. And my 400 weighs 650 according to Tim. And puts out similar power - according to Tim. Said a week ago tomorrow - "I'm not 400 biased but I am Ford biased. And you can build a 400 to do anything a 460 will do." But, I have one of both so we shall see what I think when I get Dad's truck going. 😎 Bill - Even my local Ace Hardward can cut good keys for our trucks. I'd stay away from the place that makes the short ones. Jim - That's an interesting approach on the springs. Do you know how much difference in ride that makes? How about in steering? Several here have suggested that input a lift kit on the front of Big Blue to even out the stance. And that 2" lift would be about right, and would lower the drawbar height for trailers. Hmmmm.... Gary, I used to own a 1994 F250, with the 460. I bought it from my boss, he bought it brand new. He had the "extra" leaf put in the front, I believe Ford had them for the "sagging" front ends. My 1986 is stock, and I like it better for two reasons: 1) I'm getting more crippled up and it was harder to climb into and work on. I put some Carr Hoop steps on it also. 2) When I would go across the ruts in the streets that are made in the winter around here, I would have to reach down on the floor and pick up my teeth! It rode rough. Just some thoughts. Might have to go with the Hoop steps on the 86, it came with Carr Giant steps I think they call them, (they are higher) even got supports that weren't installed, and bolts, nuts and washers from Carr at no charge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 ....250's ride rough because of the very stiff reverse arch springs and the shackles being in front.... Also 250s have the leaf springs trying to keep the lower ends of the traction beams from moving from side-to-side while the traction beam pivot points force the lower ends to move side-to-side as the suspension cycles. That stiffens things up as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 ....250's ride rough because of the very stiff reverse arch springs and the shackles being in front.... Also 250s have the leaf springs trying to keep the lower ends of the traction beams from moving from side-to-side while the traction beam pivot points force the lower ends to move side-to-side as the suspension cycles. That stiffens things up as well. The pivots locate the springs in an arc. This is REAL hard on bushings and the shackles. The springs (kinda) locate the beams front to back, but remember they are negative arch springs and the shackles *is at the front* This is why you get that crazy toe in when you back into a parking space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 The pivots locate the springs in an arc. This is REAL hard on bushings and the shackles. The springs (kinda) locate the beams front to back, but remember they are negative arch springs and the shackles *is at the front* This is why you get that crazy toe in when you back into a parking space. Y'all are telling me that Sky's Front Shackle Reversal kit, which requires the Tough Country brackets, makes a big difference in the ride? Or, it is supposed to because the geometry is all messed up w/o it? At $470 before tax and shipping, that seems like quite a bit to speculate on. Yes, Big Blue rides roughly, but w/o the sway bars it isn't too bad. (It is awful with the sway bars.) And, to tell the truth I've not driven it much since I added the winch, front receiver, and auxiliary battery, which may have helped the ride some. So, are there other benefits besides the ride quality? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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