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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Oh! But isn't the cavity open on the bottom end to air from below?

I actually did something to Big Blue today - I replaced the horn pad with one Chris/ctubutis gave me. Thanks, Chris! :nabble_smiley_good:

Yes, I know it is a Rosewood pad (from a van) and my bezels are burled wood, but the original burled wood pad fell apart. So I'm happy to have it. Plus, in the long run I doubt that I'll keep the burled wood bezels since they are turning purple, as most of them do.

Also, today I drove the truck to a meeting at the church building and when I left it didn't want to turn over. The solenoid didn't engage. I was able to get it to hit quickly one time by pulling on the steering wheel, but only once and not long enough to actually start. So I had to use the jumper I carry as a backup and the truck started. And after that it started with the key every time. :nabble_smiley_sad:

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But isn't the cavity open on the bottom end to air from below?
It's only open to the HVAC system, so the air isn't "FROM" below; it's "TO" below, which is why I chose to put the filter there.
The solenoid didn't engage. I was able to get it to hit quickly one time by pulling on the steering wheel, but only once and not long enough to actually start. So I had to use the jumper I carry as a backup and the truck started.
This is the where to begin:

http://supermotors.net/getfile/723279/thumbnail/07done.jpg

...but it may not be the end because there are other known problems...

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But isn't the cavity open on the bottom end to air from below?
It's only open to the HVAC system, so the air isn't "FROM" below; it's "TO" below, which is why I chose to put the filter there.
The solenoid didn't engage. I was able to get it to hit quickly one time by pulling on the steering wheel, but only once and not long enough to actually start. So I had to use the jumper I carry as a backup and the truck started.
This is the where to begin:

http://supermotors.net/getfile/723279/thumbnail/07done.jpg

...but it may not be the end because there are other known problems...

:nabble_smiley_wink: Except that I've done all that and then discovered that there's a problem somewhere in the red/light blue wire 'tween the switch and the solenoid. When this happens there's no juice to pull the solenoid in. But everything in the cab works, including the blower.

When I first got the truck it happened frequently, but I did a lot of diagnostic work, including moving the wires, and it went away. This is the first time it has come back in probably a year, and I wasn't in a position to troubleshoot it at that point in time. Now it is gone again, only to return at the worst possible time. :nabble_smiley_cry:

But when I take everything apart for the EFI upgrade, including taking the pedal assembly out to install the hydroboost pedal, I'll have a chance to check the wiring closer. Some really poor "mechanics" have worked on this truck, and somewhere they've done something that isn't apparent. One possibility is in the clutch switch. It's been wired around, so it may be there.

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:nabble_smiley_wink: Except that I've done all that and then discovered that there's a problem somewhere in the red/light blue wire 'tween the switch and the solenoid. When this happens there's no juice to pull the solenoid in. But everything in the cab works, including the blower.

When I first got the truck it happened frequently, but I did a lot of diagnostic work, including moving the wires, and it went away. This is the first time it has come back in probably a year, and I wasn't in a position to troubleshoot it at that point in time. Now it is gone again, only to return at the worst possible time. :nabble_smiley_cry:

But when I take everything apart for the EFI upgrade, including taking the pedal assembly out to install the hydroboost pedal, I'll have a chance to check the wiring closer. Some really poor "mechanics" have worked on this truck, and somewhere they've done something that isn't apparent. One possibility is in the clutch switch. It's been wired around, so it may be there.

Replaced my tailgate handle. Got it from Bronco Graveyard since I was ordering a window seal kit.

It's the Dorman Help! product. Looks a little crooked. But I can live with it, just bugs me.

One thing to note the factory has metric bolts, this one is standard. Had just purchased some bolts and washers etc. to have on hand. They are 5/16-18. So that worked out. Put the old handle and bolts in a ziploc bag, marked with the item name and date. Why, I'm not sure...:nabble_smiley_thinking:

Took the tailgate trim off to help get in there, I think it helped and cleaned things up a bit in there.

Next I'll put the new window seals in.

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Next I'll put the new window seals in.

My truck needs those so badly my windows are loose in the doors...lol. Between them and the door seals, my truck cab is about as tight as a spaghetti strainer.:nabble_smiley_blush:

One of many things on a long to-do list....

I didn't know that the Dorman handle uses SAE bolts. But at least you had them.

As for the window seals, it is a bit of a project, but you'll be amazed how much better the truck feels.

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Next I'll put the new window seals in.

My truck needs those so badly my windows are loose in the doors...lol. Between them and the door seals, my truck cab is about as tight as a spaghetti strainer.:nabble_smiley_blush:

One of many things on a long to-do list....

Haha! My son commented on how fast the windows go up and down. I said the seals are shot, nothing to slow it down!

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I actually did something to Big Blue today - I replaced the horn pad with one Chris/ctubutis gave me. Thanks, Chris! :nabble_smiley_good:

Yes, I know it is a Rosewood pad (from a van) and my bezels are burled wood, but the original burled wood pad fell apart. So I'm happy to have it. Plus, in the long run I doubt that I'll keep the burled wood bezels since they are turning purple, as most of them do.

Also, today I drove the truck to a meeting at the church building and when I left it didn't want to turn over. The solenoid didn't engage. I was able to get it to hit quickly one time by pulling on the steering wheel, but only once and not long enough to actually start. So I had to use the jumper I carry as a backup and the truck started. And after that it started with the key every time. :nabble_smiley_sad:

I do love the way the original steering wheel looks. Mine however is all misshappen and cracked the center pad and around the center pad. I think also why my horn had gotten stuck on. I was thinking of replaceing it with the skinny one with just a horn button from LMC but i would not have my cruise control. Is it to difficult to move the cruise control buttons to another area all together?

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I do love the way the original steering wheel looks. Mine however is all misshappen and cracked the center pad and around the center pad. I think also why my horn had gotten stuck on. I was thinking of replaceing it with the skinny one with just a horn button from LMC but i would not have my cruise control. Is it to difficult to move the cruise control buttons to another area all together?

BuggTruck,

Check with forum Administrator Jonathan [Ford F834]. He has a number of steering horn pads which he brought to the OK GTG back in 2017. He can be trusted and is quite adapt and finding parts.

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I didn't do much to my truck today other than to use it to burn some gasoline.:nabble_smiley_good:

It's been pretty windy, so I went for a drive out the road to see what the waves looked like. There were some pretty big white caps, but they were difficult to catch with an iPhone.

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