BigBrother-84 Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 It's a replacement drain plug. The original was stripped out when I bought the truck originally luckily the threads in the oil pan survived. The original was not magnetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Went and saw a cool truck today, more details in the link below. Would appreciate any inputs. It was a decent trip on Big Blue 2WD on a reasonable weather day. Good chance to use up the ancient fuel in the rear tank. The rear sending unit/gauge reading is shot (float bad?) at around 120 miles into the trip sure enough the truck cut off and I was able to pull in safely in to a parking lot... when I switched to the front tank the truck was sure enough more zippy. Some of that rear tank fuel is probably from before I bought the truck.. I mean I did occasional light use and top offs on that tank https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1987-F350-4x4-tp158020.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Went and saw a cool truck today, more details in the link below. Would appreciate any inputs. It was a decent trip on Big Blue 2WD on a reasonable weather day. Good chance to use up the ancient fuel in the rear tank. The rear sending unit/gauge reading is shot (float bad?) at around 120 miles into the trip sure enough the truck cut off and I was able to pull in safely in to a parking lot... when I switched to the front tank the truck was sure enough more zippy. Some of that rear tank fuel is probably from before I bought the truck.. I mean I did occasional light use and top offs on that tank https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1987-F350-4x4-tp158020.html Slept in a bit (Benadryl coma) then wasted way too much time trying to get these relay boxes I have to work the way I wanted them to. The Ford distribution block would pin up with the terminals I got which was great, but the red locking bar would not seat. Upon removing the terminals I cracked the box in multiple places. Off to the Chinese box I had laying around. I didn't want to mix wire gauges and I wanted to add a fifth wire etc. Long story short that didn't work out. So I ordered a bare relay/fuse box so I can pin it up just how I want to without a bunch of splices to odd sized wire. I turned my attention to the harnesses I had out and got them rebuilt with all new wire (I subbed Pk/B H for P). In lieu of the resistance wire I have some 100w wound wire resistors totaling 0.75Ohms that I will mount. All wires are labeled with the circuits numbers and all connectors and splices follow suit. Everything in the cab is polyethylene braid. Everything engine bay is fire retardant polypropylene loom. I also got the rest of the cab harness out through the firewall. I have some wires to replace that are damaged as well as some connectors. If the connectors are wire to wire I'm putting metripacks on in their place. If they have to hook up to something Ford specific like the wiper motor, then it's off to find replacements for the old brittle plastic. Last but not least, can anyone identify these guys on the driver side firewall engine compartment? Right by the hood hinge. I thought maybe just a distribution block or something but I can't seem to find them in the EVTM pictures. That or I'm blind. Most likely the latter because I'm still trying to find the other wire that goes to the S110 splice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 Slept in a bit (Benadryl coma) then wasted way too much time trying to get these relay boxes I have to work the way I wanted them to. The Ford distribution block would pin up with the terminals I got which was great, but the red locking bar would not seat. Upon removing the terminals I cracked the box in multiple places. Off to the Chinese box I had laying around. I didn't want to mix wire gauges and I wanted to add a fifth wire etc. Long story short that didn't work out. So I ordered a bare relay/fuse box so I can pin it up just how I want to without a bunch of splices to odd sized wire. I turned my attention to the harnesses I had out and got them rebuilt with all new wire (I subbed Pk/B H for P). In lieu of the resistance wire I have some 100w wound wire resistors totaling 0.75Ohms that I will mount. All wires are labeled with the circuits numbers and all connectors and splices follow suit. Everything in the cab is polyethylene braid. Everything engine bay is fire retardant polypropylene loom. I also got the rest of the cab harness out through the firewall. I have some wires to replace that are damaged as well as some connectors. If the connectors are wire to wire I'm putting metripacks on in their place. If they have to hook up to something Ford specific like the wiper motor, then it's off to find replacements for the old brittle plastic. Last but not least, can anyone identify these guys on the driver side firewall engine compartment? Right by the hood hinge. I thought maybe just a distribution block or something but I can't seem to find them in the EVTM pictures. That or I'm blind. Most likely the latter because I'm still trying to find the other wire that goes to the S110 splice. The single stud is a factory distribution point (can't recall right now if it was just with the trailer package or what all). The other 2 post is owner added but likely a circuit breaker for trailer brakes. Edit: Junction Block. See figure 2 here: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/charge--power-distribution---gasoline-engines.html Edit 2: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/trailer-option.html That little tab screwed to your fender is for the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 The single stud is a factory distribution point (can't recall right now if it was just with the trailer package or what all). The other 2 post is owner added but likely a circuit breaker for trailer brakes. Edit: Junction Block. See figure 2 here: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/charge--power-distribution---gasoline-engines.html I must have been over that page 100 times today and missed that one picture lol. That makes sense, I have DRW and no aux battery. It's like having a blank off there since there is no contactor for the aux battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 The single stud is a factory distribution point (can't recall right now if it was just with the trailer package or what all). The other 2 post is owner added but likely a circuit breaker for trailer brakes. Edit: Junction Block. See figure 2 here: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/charge--power-distribution---gasoline-engines.html I must have been over that page 100 times today and missed that one picture lol. That makes sense, I have DRW and no aux battery. It's like having a blank off there since there is no contactor for the aux battery. Ah, yeah, the drws had some hard to follow light circuits. Throw in trailer packages, 460 pump wiring, etc and you can end up with real fun time  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 Ah, yeah, the drws had some hard to follow light circuits. Throw in trailer packages, 460 pump wiring, etc and you can end up with real fun time Food for thought. I know someone mentioned a 3D printer here. A under hood toolbox is going for an asking price of $600 + shipping on eBay right now. I'm just saying, if we can get the dimensions, or even but one and replicate it with a 3D printer the only thing left would be the brackets.. and honestly printing those out of ultem you would never need a metal bracket. I'd be willing to go in on it lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 28 Author Share Posted July 28 Food for thought. I know someone mentioned a 3D printer here. A under hood toolbox is going for an asking price of $600 + shipping on eBay right now. I'm just saying, if we can get the dimensions, or even but one and replicate it with a 3D printer the only thing left would be the brackets.. and honestly printing those out of ultem you would never need a metal bracket. I'd be willing to go in on it lol. I have one I could measure if y'all get serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 Went and saw a cool truck today, more details in the link below. Would appreciate any inputs. It was a decent trip on Big Blue 2WD on a reasonable weather day. Good chance to use up the ancient fuel in the rear tank. The rear sending unit/gauge reading is shot (float bad?) at around 120 miles into the trip sure enough the truck cut off and I was able to pull in safely in to a parking lot... when I switched to the front tank the truck was sure enough more zippy. Some of that rear tank fuel is probably from before I bought the truck.. I mean I did occasional light use and top offs on that tank https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1987-F350-4x4-tp158020.html My truck dropped off the jack a couple of weeks ago, I hadn't really appreciated the implications of my new tank going from 19 to 17ish gallons when I have no working fuel gauge and rely on switching tanks at ~165 miles. Thankfully I'm pretty attuned to reacting to fuel starvation and instinctively flip the switch, because stalling out in traffic is hazardous and it takes a lot of cranking to catch prime from 15' away with a mechanical pump. How does your wife feel about a new addition to the stable? 🤔 🤪 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 My truck dropped off the jack a couple of weeks ago, I hadn't really appreciated the implications of my new tank going from 19 to 17ish gallons when I have no working fuel gauge and rely on switching tanks at ~165 miles. Thankfully I'm pretty attuned to reacting to fuel starvation and instinctively flip the switch, because stalling out in traffic is hazardous and it takes a lot of cranking to catch prime from 15' away with a mechanical pump. How does your wife feel about a new addition to the stable? 🤔 🤪 Ok about the wife’s thoughts.. I guess I haven’t provided the background on why I’ve been looking for a truck… Bottom line is Big Blue 2WD doesn’t have AC and I’m looking to replace. The truck is completely stock today, almost 98% factory except the fuel selector situation. I feel an AC conversion would be “messing with” the truck as I would be modifying it a lot. Maybe somebody can settle my feelings on this. Wife is fine as long as the new addition will replace Big Blue 2WD, the only bullnose I have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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