BigBrother-84 Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Two words: stiff nipples. That's cold! Glad for you it’s woking well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Two words: stiff nipples. That's cold! Glad for you it’s woking well! Speaking of AC. Noticed this while working my ducts, and maybe I'm not fully understanding how the system works. The door between the heater core and AC coil closes off the heater box but there is still the opening above the heater core and a near equal in size opening to the left in this picture that goes to the ductwork. Wouldn't that hurt the efficiency of the AC? Or is it like that because of moisture control and or not burning up the ductwork on the heater? I am assuming having a shut off/ bypass for summer months resolves this. If the opening above the heater core is always open, I think I'm going to put a bit of filter media there if there is clear access from under or inside the glove box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Speaking of AC. Noticed this while working my ducts, and maybe I'm not fully understanding how the system works. The door between the heater core and AC coil closes off the heater box but there is still the opening above the heater core and a near equal in size opening to the left in this picture that goes to the ductwork. Wouldn't that hurt the efficiency of the AC? Or is it like that because of moisture control and or not burning up the ductwork on the heater? I am assuming having a shut off/ bypass for summer months resolves this. If the opening above the heater core is always open, I think I'm going to put a bit of filter media there if there is clear access from under or inside the glove box. If that's the case I found this bypass valve. If the vacuum is strong enough on the actuator that closes that door. Then I can split it to this bypass so when the door closes this valve cuts off hot coolant to the heater core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Speaking of AC. Noticed this while working my ducts, and maybe I'm not fully understanding how the system works. The door between the heater core and AC coil closes off the heater box but there is still the opening above the heater core and a near equal in size opening to the left in this picture that goes to the ductwork. Wouldn't that hurt the efficiency of the AC? Or is it like that because of moisture control and or not burning up the ductwork on the heater? I am assuming having a shut off/ bypass for summer months resolves this. If the opening above the heater core is always open, I think I'm going to put a bit of filter media there if there is clear access from under or inside the glove box. You still need air flowing through that part of the ductwork, just not through the heater core. There are various manual and vacuum operated bypass valves that isolate the heater core from the always open coolant(heating) loop. The core itself should have a rubber seal around the header tank. Incredibly () Gary has a writeup! A few other members do as well... Usually involving a H shaped, vacuum actuated 'Max Cool' valve from a Ranger or an Escort. And, I see you've replied to yourself while I was pecking away at my phone... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 If that's the case I found this bypass valve. If the vacuum is strong enough on the actuator that closes that door. Then I can split it to this bypass so when the door closes this valve cuts off hot coolant to the heater core. Looks like the one on my Lebaron convertible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 You still need air flowing through that part of the ductwork, just not through the heater core. There are various manual and vacuum operated bypass valves that isolate the heater core from the always open coolant(heating) loop. The core itself should have a rubber seal around the header tank. Incredibly () Gary has a writeup! A few other members do as well... Usually involving a H shaped, vacuum actuated 'Max Cool' valve from a Ranger or an Escort. And, I see you've replied to yourself while I was pecking away at my phone... Tried out that new distributor pulling a grade at 60 MPH + tonight. First time I leaned into it slowly until the pedal was to the floor and acceleration was good, smooth and no pinging. Next time I slammed it to the floor and it downshifted, same thing. Gonna try and bring the total advance in a little earlier since it didn't seem to be close to pinging at all. This was climbing a probably 4-5% grade at 60-80 MPH. AFR was 12.5 average WOT, seems the stock secondary jetting is pretty good. Helps when it doesn't have a bent connecting rod I suppose. The distributor seems like a real winner so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 Tried out that new distributor pulling a grade at 60 MPH + tonight. First time I leaned into it slowly until the pedal was to the floor and acceleration was good, smooth and no pinging. Next time I slammed it to the floor and it downshifted, same thing. Gonna try and bring the total advance in a little earlier since it didn't seem to be close to pinging at all. This was climbing a probably 4-5% grade at 60-80 MPH. AFR was 12.5 average WOT, seems the stock secondary jetting is pretty good. Helps when it doesn't have a bent connecting rod I suppose. The distributor seems like a real winner so far. That’s good news! I guess a bent connecting rod does make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 That’s good news! I guess a bent connecting rod does make a difference. Hey Gary, you wouldn't happen to have a part number for the locking contacts Ford used in the 90s distribution boxes would you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 Hey Gary, you wouldn't happen to have a part number for the locking contacts Ford used in the 90s distribution boxes would you? No, I don't. But I have a bag full of them with short bits of Ford wires on them and would be happy to send you some. What wire colors do you need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickelplate Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 Hey Gary, you wouldn't happen to have a part number for the locking contacts Ford used in the 90s distribution boxes would you? Dorman and Standard have a bunch of OEM style terminals that I have used for various Bullnose repairs. You basically have to search visually through O'reilly's site to find the right one before you'll know the part number, but they are out there. I got this assorted pack which helped me a bunch, but they have a lot of other styles too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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