FordFETruck Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Fummins swap?.... No, it'll likely be a Cummins swap Until a diesel Dodge pickup is called a "Dummins" or a Ford with an IDI or PowerStroke is called a "Favistar International" I'll keep calling a Ford with a Cummins "a Ford with a Cummins." I've just never been big on cute nicknames (says the guy who calls his Bronco "Pluto" and his truck "Oswald" ) But I haven't completely locked in on a Cummins either. I like the idea of no electronics (and still having decent drivability and economy). But I don't love a diesel in the winter. So I'm not completely ruling out an EFI 351W, or even an LS swap (although that last one's pretty unlikely). But the 6BT is the current frontrunner. .... I was using a length of binder chain. Didn't have much problem standing my stock 235/85 R16 spare. The inflated tire took a bit of the jerk out as I slammed those stumps again and again. With the tire cushioning the blow I probably could've banged into it harder than I did. But I really don't like the idea of breaking a chain and the damage that can cause, so I played it safe. And while it might have gone a little quicker, it's not like it would've been much less work otherwise. All of the digging we did was to get low enough to have the chain grab and hold. I had to pull the chain tight without the tire (otherwise it'd just slide up the bush without biting). That's usually when I'd hit stall on the converter. It did get some of the smaller bushes out like that, but when it didn't I'd set up the tire. I'd usually get at least a little movement like that, so I'd relax the tension and roll into the throttle again a few times. And then if needed give it a 3" jerk. But the converter brings in another issue. Oswald doesn't have a tach, so I don't know where the converter was stalling out, but it wasn't real high. Generally I like a lower stall converter (or better yet, a manual clutch ). But it does limit the power you can put to it in a situation like this. And again, this was in 4-hi since I can't shift the transfer case into any other gear. After years of driving terminal tractors for a living with Cummins in them, fantastic engine but not sure I'd want one in a personal pickup. Between the noise and vibration I experience every day and going home feeling the vibrations in my legs long after I get home from that thing makes it kinda hard to want one lol. We had one yard tractor that had 40,000 hours on it before it got sent out to be refurbished completely. Truck was beyond junk but the engine still ran great. That one had a 2001 24 valve 5.9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Feeling decent, still a little low on energy although bench pressing that transmission to get the trans mount studs over the crossmember wore me out. My dad has what I had now, he's not feeling that great lol. I'll probably go back out and get the other header on after a while and call it quits. My laser is together going to test out making a door tag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 My laser is together going to test out making a door tag. Got the transmission cooler lines finished up and fired the engine up, it lives and sounded really good. I only ran it for a couple of minutes, also tested the transmission it went into reverse and drive just fine. I'll break the cam in tomorrow and get all the fluids topped off but nothing was leaking and it sounded awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Got the transmission cooler lines finished up and fired the engine up, it lives and sounded really good. I only ran it for a couple of minutes, also tested the transmission it went into reverse and drive just fine. I'll break the cam in tomorrow and get all the fluids topped off but nothing was leaking and it sounded awesome. Great!! I'll take this opportunity to pose a question... What's up with this myth that the cam has to be broken-in on the first fire up else its doomed. I personally don't think that makes sense. I think one can cause more damage to the engine or transmission before they verify the engine is ready to run for 20 minutes non-stop at a high RPM. If the idea is to work harden the cam lobes and the cause a good long-term mating surface between the lifter and the cam, I'd say there is probably some wiggle room to run it 'light' and check everything is ready to go before that's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Great!! I'll take this opportunity to pose a question... What's up with this myth that the cam has to be broken-in on the first fire up else its doomed. I personally don't think that makes sense. I think one can cause more damage to the engine or transmission before they verify the engine is ready to run for 20 minutes non-stop at a high RPM. If the idea is to work harden the cam lobes and the cause a good long-term mating surface between the lifter and the cam, I'd say there is probably some wiggle room to run it 'light' and check everything is ready to go before that's done. That's not the case. The cam has been nitrided or something else. The cam and lifters need to burnish into each other (see cylinder & rings plateau) The lifters and cam lobes need to be completely flooded with cooling & lubricating oil while this happens. The only way you can assure that kind of volume is to run the engine at or above 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Great!! I'll take this opportunity to pose a question... What's up with this myth that the cam has to be broken-in on the first fire up else its doomed. I personally don't think that makes sense. I think one can cause more damage to the engine or transmission before they verify the engine is ready to run for 20 minutes non-stop at a high RPM. If the idea is to work harden the cam lobes and the cause a good long-term mating surface between the lifter and the cam, I'd say there is probably some wiggle room to run it 'light' and check everything is ready to go before that's done. Yeah not sure, I'm going to run it the 2000 rpm for 20 minutes, I ran it for about 2 minutes at 2000 then let it idle just long enough to make sure it went into reverse and drive then shut it off. Every flat tappet cam I've ever broken in I've always had to shut it down every 7-10 minutes to let the cooling system cool off for a while and never lost a cam idling it briefly before shutdown. Of course, it's always been 80-90 degrees out when I've broken a cam in for some reason .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 That's not the case. The cam has been nitrided or something else. The cam and lifters need to burnish into each other (see cylinder & rings plateau) The lifters and cam lobes need to be completely flooded with cooling & lubricating oil while this happens. The only way you can assure that kind of volume is to run the engine at or above 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes or so. The longest most nerve wracking 20 minutes ever endured. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 The longest most nerve wracking 20 minutes ever endured. Bill Yep, how did they get away with no break in rolling off the assembly line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Yep, how did they get away with no break in rolling off the assembly line? Got the dash completely out this morning wow what a chore that was. All the parts that are metal are going into the ultrasonic cleaner. This truck seems to have been ordered with a bunch of options. I was looking at this wiper control switch and module. The switch goes both clockwise and counter clockwise so it may be intermittent wipers that are just not functional. I know I need to take a look at that blend door because I was not getting dash air while I'm here too. The vac lines are pretty slimy and may need to be replaced. I kinda wish there was an electricical until to adapt these parts from vac to electrical actuation. I had a feeling I would find CB parts here. There were some screws in the dashboard that I figured were for the mic mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Got the dash completely out this morning wow what a chore that was. All the parts that are metal are going into the ultrasonic cleaner. This truck seems to have been ordered with a bunch of options. I was looking at this wiper control switch and module. The switch goes both clockwise and counter clockwise so it may be intermittent wipers that are just not functional. I know I need to take a look at that blend door because I was not getting dash air while I'm here too. The vac lines are pretty slimy and may need to be replaced. I kinda wish there was an electricical until to adapt these parts from vac to electrical actuation. I had a feeling I would find CB parts here. There were some screws in the dashboard that I figured were for the mic mount I need some pointers on how to go about this dash disassembly!! Is there a metal frame that holds the plastic dash ? Is it easier to remove only the plastic ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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