viven44 Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 Lock the steering wheel straight ahead and adjust your tie rod ends so the wheels are straight, with the correct toe in. Adjusted Tie Rod. The problem is that the adjustment is only available on the driver side. Passenger side is not adjustable, drag link ties into a solid center link. The existing alignment has a lot of Toe out so I was able to bring in the passenger to a mild Toe out and that corrected the steering to where it has ~1.6 turns to the left lock and a little over ~1.75 turns to the right lock. What is the Toe specification for these 4x4s ? F150/Broncos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 4 Author Share Posted July 4 Adjusted Tie Rod. The problem is that the adjustment is only available on the driver side. Passenger side is not adjustable, drag link ties into a solid center link. The existing alignment has a lot of Toe out so I was able to bring in the passenger to a mild Toe out and that corrected the steering to where it has ~1.6 turns to the left lock and a little over ~1.75 turns to the right lock. What is the Toe specification for these 4x4s ? F150/Broncos Alignment specs are on the page at Documenation/Suspension & Steering/Alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 Alignment specs are on the page at Documenation/Suspension & Steering/Alignment. And there you go! Should steer a lot lighter and return to center now. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 Alignment specs are on the page at Documenation/Suspension & Steering/Alignment. Yes I saw that and also my 78 manual. Sorry I should been more clear. It appears to be calling out for a Toe of min 1/16 to max 5/16 inch. Does that mean Toe-in ?? If so, the Bronco was waay out of spec (very obvious toe out is what I saw) ? Wonder if that’s a mudding thing to do … Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootybandit Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 Happy 4th!!!!! Keep your glasses out of the engine today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 Happy 4th!!!!! Keep your glasses out of the engine today. Ooopsie! At least they weren't on a lanyard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 My bricknose dash is different, but to release the cable you have to push the white retainer collar tab in towards the metal cable end. Right. We actually have a how-to on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Speedometers, Gears, Cables, & Sensors and then the Speedo Cables tab. I got about half of the dash loose I have what's left from the radio bezel edge to the passenger door and then I should get it out. But for now I'm waiting out the heat. Wish I had a garage with AC I could pull it into. After that I have to do the same to the 86. I did pull the dash pad out of the 86 already and some smaller parts I will definitely need before I realized the F-350 dash is in such disrepair. For the life of me I can't figure why Ford wedged some of these Philips screws in the paces they did. I'm going to probably replace these blind fasteners with hex heads in case it ever needs to come off again. Been using a small bit ratchet to get these off which helped for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 I got about half of the dash loose I have what's left from the radio bezel edge to the passenger door and then I should get it out. But for now I'm waiting out the heat. Wish I had a garage with AC I could pull it into. After that I have to do the same to the 86. I did pull the dash pad out of the 86 already and some smaller parts I will definitely need before I realized the F-350 dash is in such disrepair. For the life of me I can't figure why Ford wedged some of these Philips screws in the paces they did. I'm going to probably replace these blind fasteners with hex heads in case it ever needs to come off again. Been using a small bit ratchet to get these off which helped for sure. The sonic cleaner has proven pretty invaluable for metal and chrome parts. I accidentally left the heat on with this new one and a window crank in there.... The plastic didn't like that. The new cleaner has knobs in lieu of digital buttons and timers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 I got about half of the dash loose I have what's left from the radio bezel edge to the passenger door and then I should get it out. But for now I'm waiting out the heat. Wish I had a garage with AC I could pull it into. After that I have to do the same to the 86. I did pull the dash pad out of the 86 already and some smaller parts I will definitely need before I realized the F-350 dash is in such disrepair. For the life of me I can't figure why Ford wedged some of these Philips screws in the paces they did. I'm going to probably replace these blind fasteners with hex heads in case it ever needs to come off again. Been using a small bit ratchet to get these off which helped for sure. If you saw how these were built it would make sense. The dash was installed before the windshield. I visited the Norfolk Assembly plant three times between the early 50s and when it closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 Yes I saw that and also my 78 manual. Sorry I should been more clear. It appears to be calling out for a Toe of min 1/16 to max 5/16 inch. Does that mean Toe-in ?? If so, the Bronco was waay out of spec (very obvious toe out is what I saw) ? Wonder if that’s a mudding thing to do … as a rule, it is that the toe in is the setting. in a perfect world the front two wheels would be perfectly square to each other to avoid any bias pulling the vehicle one way or the other based on road changes. however, we have all of these rubber bushings to absorb shock and vibrations that these trucks have a bit of "sponge" built in. this requires that the front wheels be ever so slightly toe in so that road forces and bumps hold them nearly square against the built in cushion. toe out will give the wheel with the most road holding to control direction. possibly giving the operator a real job of holding a strait line, especially on bumpy roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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