viven44 Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 It's not like the shaft is tapered. 🙄 If the pulleys are misaligned when it's installed just pull it out until it is coplanar. I installed it where it was flush with the shaft face initially... It came off when I pulled on it.. I decided to put more torque on the install... It bottomed out solid at about 1/16". If I pull out the pulley any, it might come off.... Btw, its interesting that you say the shaft is not tapered.... then what is holding the pulley on the shaft !!!??? I assume the pulley is tapered at least ??? Weird stuff.... I had to press it in further for it to be set solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 The trend right now with younger generations is we want simpler appliances. A lot of my generation are looking to older appliances. We are tired of the $3000 refrigerators and stoves that last 12-18 months. I want a range that I can manually co troll temps, give me convention and that's it. I don't need a computer controlled range. I want a fridge that dispenses cold water and ice, and I can set the temp. I don't need anything else. Almost everything is app driven and talks to the Internet. just because you can does not mean that you should. we have too much tech these days. I really enjoy the mind exercise that I get from discussing truck issues on this forum and I have learned much this way and I know that its only possible through the technology at hand. but asking Alexa whether you need butter or not is beyond lazy and frankly when you take humans out of the system, the system stops serving the humans. no, I do not use self-checkout. it's insulting to all involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 I installed it where it was flush with the shaft face initially... It came off when I pulled on it.. I decided to put more torque on the install... It bottomed out solid at about 1/16". If I pull out the pulley any, it might come off.... Btw, its interesting that you say the shaft is not tapered.... then what is holding the pulley on the shaft !!!??? I assume the pulley is tapered at least ??? Weird stuff.... I had to press it in further for it to be set solid. Centered on the water pump and crank pulleys??? I usually lay a 1/2" metal rod or something in the sheaves and can see right away if I'm going to eat/throw my belts. It's a straight shaft and bore (at least it should be!) Why do you think you need a puller and forcing bolt? IIRC, the Saginaw is 3/4 and the C2 is 11/16. If yours is sloppy, and it wasn't before, you have a crappy reman with the shaft out of spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Centered on the water pump and crank pulleys??? I usually lay a 1/2" metal rod or something in the sheaves and can see right away if I'm going to eat/throw my belts. It's a straight shaft and bore (at least it should be!) Why do you think you need a puller and forcing bolt? IIRC, the Saginaw is 3/4 and the C2 is 11/16. If yours is sloppy, and it wasn't before, you have a crappy reman with the shaft out of spec. I did a mock-up ... it appears well centered vs the other pulleys... but just strange the pulley isn't flush like it usually is. V-groove is forgiving... but still it bugs me when things are not in spec ;/ ;/ Well... i went back. I think things are probably in spec... just on the lower spec limit possibly. The pulley's fit is just right now after they have acclamatized. I was able to pull it back out maybe another 1/32"... its not flush but nearly and still seems tight.. earlier today the pump was inside the house.. maybe at 75C it was a looser fit vs the pulley that probably was closer to 110C. I had also just come from a 20 mile trip. The pump and everything was quite warm. I just can't get past the fact that the pulley can become a projectile if it slips off the shaft. What a strange design... without a snap ring or something retaining the pulley... doesn't make sense but obviously has worked on millions of vehicles... I will probably install a nut/washer at the end as a safeguard.. the inside of the shaft is threaded anyway for a nut.... just foolish and paranoid And as usual, you were correct. That shaft is straight as can be! I had no idea. Natural instinct was to bottom that pulley to submission like I was pressing a bearing on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 I did a mock-up ... it appears well centered vs the other pulleys... but just strange the pulley isn't flush like it usually is. V-groove is forgiving... but still it bugs me when things are not in spec ;/ ;/ Well... i went back. I think things are probably in spec... just on the lower spec limit possibly. The pulley's fit is just right now after they have acclamatized. I was able to pull it back out maybe another 1/32"... its not flush but nearly and still seems tight.. earlier today the pump was inside the house.. maybe at 75C it was a looser fit vs the pulley that probably was closer to 110C. I had also just come from a 20 mile trip. The pump and everything was quite warm. I just can't get past the fact that the pulley can become a projectile if it slips off the shaft. What a strange design... without a snap ring or something retaining the pulley... doesn't make sense but obviously has worked on millions of vehicles... I will probably install a nut/washer at the end as a safeguard.. the inside of the shaft is threaded anyway for a nut.... just foolish and paranoid And as usual, you were correct. That shaft is straight as can be! I had no idea. Natural instinct was to bottom that pulley to submission like I was pressing a bearing on It is an interference fit, and as such the holding power goes up as the shaft fits deeper into the pulley. **The shaft is threaded for a bolt, so you can use a washer to pull the pulley onto the shaft, not to retain it...** But if it gets tighter still as more shaft protrudes out the front, then the shaft must be at fault, because the pulley is already 100% engaged, and the bore is straight Bring the pump back to the store (with a micrometer) and demand a part that is fit for service. That's just a load of ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 It is an interference fit, and as such the holding power goes up as the shaft fits deeper into the pulley. **The shaft is threaded for a bolt, so you can use a washer to pull the pulley onto the shaft, not to retain it...** But if it gets tighter still as more shaft protrudes out the front, then the shaft must be at fault, because the pulley is already 100% engaged, and the bore is straight Bring the pump back to the store (with a micrometer) and demand a part that is fit for service. That's just a load of ..... I think I am good now. The initial fit appeared loose because the pump was about 30C cooler than the pulley. I pulled the pump out of the Amazon box and took it straight to install the pulley. I just need to make sure to mark the end of the shaft to make sure visually it is spinning with the pulley upon first installing it :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 I think I am good now. The initial fit appeared loose because the pump was about 30C cooler than the pulley. I pulled the pump out of the Amazon box and took it straight to install the pulley. I just need to make sure to mark the end of the shaft to make sure visually it is spinning with the pulley upon first installing it :) That really doesn't seem like enough temperature delta to make a difference. Steel expands, but it's not that much if only like 300F. But if you get the pulley glowing you'll ruin the shaft seal in the pump just from conduction & radiation. It's meant to be pulled/pushed cold. IIRC there's a 0.004" interference fit on my Saginaw pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 That really doesn't seem like enough temperature delta to make a difference. Steel expands, but it's not that much if only like 300F. But if you get the pulley glowing you'll ruin the shaft seal in the pump just from conduction & radiation. It's meant to be pulled/pushed cold. IIRC there's a 0.004" interference fit on my Saginaw pump. New power steering pump shaft out of spec ? The new shaft seems to be different but I’m unable to explain why with the tools I have (and most likely knowledge as well, haha) It is smaller but I’m unable to measure it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 New power steering pump shaft out of spec ? The new shaft seems to be different but I’m unable to explain why with the tools I have (and most likely knowledge as well, haha) It is smaller but I’m unable to measure it. Pretty much everyone should have a zero to 1" micrometer. (measures shims & shafts, etc.. ) You can buy a General for under $30 Some Chinese is even cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Pretty much everyone should have a zero to 1" micrometer. (measures shims & shafts, etc.. ) You can buy a General for under $30 Some Chinese is even cheaper. I bought the Cardone 20-6240 which shows up as THE PUMP whether it is a 1978 Bronco with a 400 (Actual vehicle) or a 1986 F250 with a 460 (engine source). O'Reilly has the same pump as well for both options (711-2115). Autozone has a TruGrade/Endurance Power Steering Pump 7050 for a 1986 F250 but a different 7056 one for a 1978 Bronco 400.... wonder what is different between the 2 pumps.. they look identical. I'll go to Autozone later today with the pulley! Hoping to sort this one. Perils of OEM discontinuation. I don't know how restoration shops do this ALL the time!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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