viven44 Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 I'm not sure what I could be doing wrong. I didn't buy any cheap & dirty parts (but I suppose that would have worked out better than this! ) The 160 ft lbs does seem like the correct level of torque needed... but I ran for a while with much less torque (80 ft lbs) on one of my trucks as the pinion bearing pre-load was already within spec (~20-25 in-lbs). I assume at a lower torque level there is no binding ??? But I get the frustration as things are apparently not within spec. Which one is the collar in that diagram? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickelplate Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 That's awesome! Always nice to have a little more peace & quiet, so a lot must be like magic. Are you using an app, or a dedicated sound meter? I'm reading that Gary just got his sub installed and tuned so it seems like you are not alone in the stereo upgrade this summer. My wife has a dB meter app on her phone. We go on a straight stretch of highway just down the road from us. She runs the app, and holds the phone in the same spot between driver and passenger. So I looked back through my data, and in that position, it was at 89dB. When we measured down by our feet it was 92. We stopped measuring at the feet and just decided to do the head-level position. From 89 to 75 is absolutely awesome. All it took was different wheels and tires, replacing a worn double cardan joint, installing kilmat in the whole interior, and then inside the doors! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 My wife has a dB meter app on her phone. We go on a straight stretch of highway just down the road from us. She runs the app, and holds the phone in the same spot between driver and passenger. So I looked back through my data, and in that position, it was at 89dB. When we measured down by our feet it was 92. We stopped measuring at the feet and just decided to do the head-level position. From 89 to 75 is absolutely awesome. All it took was different wheels and tires, replacing a worn double cardan joint, installing kilmat in the whole interior, and then inside the doors! Are you using A or C-weighting on the meter? I read years ago that C is better for what I was doing but don’t remember why. But yes, that reduction should make a huge difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickelplate Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 Are you using A or C-weighting on the meter? I read years ago that C is better for what I was doing but don’t remember why. But yes, that reduction should make a huge difference. Not a clue! Really, I don't know if a phone app would have that option. I'll have to ask her about it after work. I can't just get the same app and try it myself because she's on an iphone and I'm on android. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 The 160 ft lbs does seem like the correct level of torque needed... but I ran for a while with much less torque (80 ft lbs) on one of my trucks as the pinion bearing pre-load was already within spec (~20-25 in-lbs). I assume at a lower torque level there is no binding ??? But I get the frustration as things are apparently not within spec. Which one is the collar in that diagram? They show the collar (4762) between the two bearings (like a 12 bolt Chevy) but that's not how it came out of my truck, and there's no possible way it could ever get 'crushed' if the bearing races are inches apart and this thing is like 17-18 mm long..... 🤷♂️ I have Bills all data, and the instructions from that page but none of the pinion adjustment seems correct and I don't have the depth tool. I'm on my knees with a 2x4 wedged against the receiver holding the pinion in while I slip the yoke on and wedge my trusty 3' Horrid Fate pipe wrench against the ground. Then I can tighten the nut (with pre-applied blue loctite) but I don't get to 20(???) #' before it starts to get really stiff. Everything is lubed, and I hammer front and back to see if the races are fully seated. Not sure what I'm doing wrong -or different than last time- but I NEED the truck gone from my brother's and I need the wheels. 😖 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 Not a clue! Really, I don't know if a phone app would have that option. I'll have to ask her about it after work. I can't just get the same app and try it myself because she's on an iphone and I'm on android. I have the NIOSH SLA app and don’t see how to put in on either A or C. I also have Sonic Tools app that doesn’t give me those options either. But it does show the frequency distribution of the sound as well as the peak. I’m thinking this might be a good way to take before/after readings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 I have the NIOSH SLA app and don’t see how to put in on either A or C. I also have Sonic Tools app that doesn’t give me those options either. But it does show the frequency distribution of the sound as well as the peak. I’m thinking this might be a good way to take before/after readings. I am wrong. The NIOSH app does have both A and C. In the shot below I have it in C mode, but if you go into settings you can change it to A, C, or Z. This site provides an explanation of the different curves: https://blog.echobarrier.com/blog/difference-between-a-c-z-frequency-weightings?hs_amp=true Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 I am wrong. The NIOSH app does have both A and C. In the shot below I have it in C mode, but if you go into settings you can change it to A, C, or Z. This site provides an explanation of the different curves: https://blog.echobarrier.com/blog/difference-between-a-c-z-frequency-weightings?hs_amp=true At this point I'm ready to YOLO, back off the nut and stake it in place at 22 lb in..... I usually don't allow myself to get frustrated with mechanics, but the wind is Gusty and I have spent HOURS getting the grit and crap out of my $500 bearings. I'm NOT willing to go through this again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 At this point I'm ready to YOLO, back off the nut and stake it in place at 22 lb in..... I usually don't allow myself to get frustrated with mechanics, but the wind is Gusty and I have spent HOURS getting the grit and crap out of my $500 bearings. I'm NOT willing to go through this again. How different is yours from this one below ? These guys also noticed excessive play after tightening the pinion. I didn't watch the whole video but seemed similar on a cursory watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickelplate Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 I am wrong. The NIOSH app does have both A and C. In the shot below I have it in C mode, but if you go into settings you can change it to A, C, or Z. This site provides an explanation of the different curves: https://blog.echobarrier.com/blog/difference-between-a-c-z-frequency-weightings?hs_amp=true She looked into the app she's using and it's set to A mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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