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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Let the painting begin!!

Again, I know nothing about body work and painting...but it will be much better than it started.

After what seemed like an endless amount of sanding, some filler to correct issues, finally onto some primer.

It'll probably take me a month to finally get paint on it considering the million other projects in flight but you have to get started to get anywhere.

I learned a lot of painting from "Paint Society" on YouTube. Fantastic channel.

The only lesson I learned the hard way was "paint cracking"... the kind that happens right after you spray a coat, due to undesired reaction between coats. That is the only thing to watch for. The key is patience. Wait the prescribed flash times between coat. Tacking on too many coats too quick is recipe for problems down the road.

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Let the painting begin!!

Again, I know nothing about body work and painting...but it will be much better than it started.

After what seemed like an endless amount of sanding, some filler to correct issues, finally onto some primer.

It'll probably take me a month to finally get paint on it considering the million other projects in flight but you have to get started to get anywhere.

Looks great Erik! :nabble_smiley_good:

What kind of primer & paint system are you using on your truck?

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Looks great Erik! :nabble_smiley_good:

What kind of primer & paint system are you using on your truck?

I'm still trying to figure out a case spreader for my 10.25.

Bill, can you get me a picture and some dimensions?

Anybody.....???? :nabble_smiley_thinking:

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I'm still trying to figure out a case spreader for my 10.25.

Bill, can you get me a picture and some dimensions?

Anybody.....???? :nabble_smiley_thinking:

Jim, they don't have a case spreader for the 10.25" Sterling, When I did my friend's axle, I just ended up driving the shims in, unfortunately I don't remember if I was ever able to get the shim driver. I do have the tool kit for the axle including 3 different seal installation tools.

If the kit didn't weigh a ton, I would send it up to you.

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Looks great Erik! :nabble_smiley_good:

What kind of primer & paint system are you using on your truck?

I am probably going to get crucified by those that know better then I. 🤣

I am using Duplicolor primer and paint as it claims to be pre-thinned and ready to go. I was just looking to remove a variable where I would foul it up.

I bought an inexpensive LVLP paint gun: Aeropro Tools R500. Aside from my learning curve, it seems to work well.

Edit: In addition to my shop air/water separater, I also bought an inline one I attached to the gun. In Northern Michigan we have as much water in our compressor as air. 😀

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I learned a lot of painting from "Paint Society" on YouTube. Fantastic channel.

The only lesson I learned the hard way was "paint cracking"... the kind that happens right after you spray a coat, due to undesired reaction between coats. That is the only thing to watch for. The key is patience. Wait the prescribed flash times between coat. Tacking on too many coats too quick is recipe for problems down the road.

Before I actually put paint down, I will absolutely check the videos out. Thanks!!

Patience is not my strength...but I told myself if I am going to do the painting, I need to exercise it. Whether it was rhe sanding, bondo work or priming...I have forced myself to not just move on to the next step but rather spend a bit more time on the current one.

We'll see how it ends up. No matter what, it will be better than the crazy paint that was on it when I bought it.

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I learned a lot of painting from "Paint Society" on YouTube. Fantastic channel.

The only lesson I learned the hard way was "paint cracking"... the kind that happens right after you spray a coat, due to undesired reaction between coats. That is the only thing to watch for. The key is patience. Wait the prescribed flash times between coat. Tacking on too many coats too quick is recipe for problems down the road.

Before I actually put paint down, I will absolutely check the videos out. Thanks!!

Patience is not my strength...but I told myself if I am going to do the painting, I need to exercise it. Whether it was rhe sanding, bondo work or priming...I have forced myself to not just move on to the next step but rather spend a bit more time on the current one.

We'll see how it ends up. No matter what, it will be better than the crazy paint that was on it when I bought it.

Got into the back of the truck when replacing the cover that had worn out. The bumper I bought NIB ended up sitting in water, the box sloughed off and I've got some rust in the chrome.

Off to the books to figure out how to clean this up.

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Looks great Erik! :nabble_smiley_good:

What kind of primer & paint system are you using on your truck?

I am probably going to get crucified by those that know better then I. 🤣

I am using Duplicolor primer and paint as it claims to be pre-thinned and ready to go. I was just looking to remove a variable where I would foul it up.

I bought an inexpensive LVLP paint gun: Aeropro Tools R500. Aside from my learning curve, it seems to work well.

Edit: In addition to my shop air/water separater, I also bought an inline one I attached to the gun. In Northern Michigan we have as much water in our compressor as air. 😀

:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

I painted my truck with Transtar DTM epoxy primer and a gallon of Rust oleum OSHA Safety Red, thinned w/ toulene, and dosed with Valspar gloss & hardner from Tractor Supply.

I sprayed it with a $9 purple gun from Horrid Fate!

Believe me, you have nothing to worry about

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so, I finally got my transmission finished in my 86 sb. it has taken way too much time with all if the distractions but mostly having to clean out the vb repeatedly. debris small enough to go through a filter is big enough to make sticky valves. fingers crossed that I am through with the flushing. I normally use an inline magnetic filter on rebuilds but my supplier in charlotte has none. either I put on a used one or wait for the next batch. so, it's out and the f250 is in. I started the c6 rebuild. no fails so that's good. a slightly toasted band and a couple of toasted clutch frictions yet no whole clutches. the real issue that I found is hardened seals on the pistons. brittle even. taking the case to get cleaned tomorrow as I just cannot put one together dirty. still, I did not find any sure cause for slipping. loss of forward and blown pump seal. radiator is full of coolant and never read warm at all. I was pulling a trailer with a parts truck on it. old fluid may have just been the biggest issue to get this started.

today I got the c6 back into the f250. all is well. the only true failure that I discovered was a blown vacuum modulator. add to that a couple of brittle hardened seals that can only be accessed by a total disassembly. at least now I have a known unit. I need to be able to trust it. it is complete all but waiting on a new modulator. the modulator is most likely where all the lost fluid went, right out the tailpipe!

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today I got the c6 back into the f250. all is well. the only true failure that I discovered was a blown vacuum modulator. add to that a couple of brittle hardened seals that can only be accessed by a total disassembly. at least now I have a known unit. I need to be able to trust it. it is complete all but waiting on a new modulator. the modulator is most likely where all the lost fluid went, right out the tailpipe!

Are you getting the modulator with the black stripe or the green stripe ? Supposedly trucks are to use the black strip modulator... but in my experience I haven't observed any difference trying out both. I found that the "rod" inside the modulator stuck out further with a green modulator.... green is what I ended up using on my bronco recently as it is more readily available...

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