WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just talked to Jim at Innovate and he said the main problem people have is that they power the meter, and therefore the O2 sensor's heater, when the engine isn't running. So if you listen to the radio the heater has the sensor's ceramic element HOT, and if you then start the engine there's a wash of relatively cool air that hits the sensor and cracks it.

That's exactly the way I have it wired, so I need to change the wiring to only power the meter when the engine is running. I'll have to see how best to do that, but I'm sure there's an easy way to do that via the relays in the PDB.

Then, after I described my setup, he said I may also be overheating the O2 sensor since I'm running the AFR @ 14.7 and have ceramic-coated headers which keep the heat in. So he recommended the bung extension, although at 2" long I'll have to make a minor change.

In the pic below, which is taken from below the driver's side exhaust, you can see the wide-band sensor for the Innovate AFR meter to the front/right and the narrow-band sensor for the EFI system to the left/rear. Adding the 2" bung extension in the front position would put the wires very close to the tranny, so I'll swap the sensor positions and then there'll be plenty of room for the extension.

You already have a relay that's pulled in by stator and powers your voltmeter, right????

[Gary Lewis]

You already have a relay that's pulled in by stator and powers your voltmeter, right????

No, unfortunately I pull that relay in via the LG/R from the ignition switch. I'd have been better off with the stator to pull it in because then I'd see quickly if the alternator failed because the voltmeter would go to 0.

So now I'm looking at either changing that or taping into the fuel pump wiring. But I'm not 100% sure what I have in fuel pump wiring. This post says it is wired as is shown below, which doesn't show the oil pressure switch. But I thought I left it in the circuit, and I've got to document how that is wired before I move on. My preference would be to pick up the power right after the oil pressure switch, but if it ain't there...

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

No, unfortunately I pull that relay in via the LG/R from the ignition switch. I'd have been better off with the stator to pull it in because then I'd see quickly if the alternator failed because the voltmeter would go to 0.

So now I'm looking at either changing that or taping into the fuel pump wiring. But I'm not 100% sure what I have in fuel pump wiring. This post says it is wired as is shown below, which doesn't show the oil pressure switch. But I thought I left it in the circuit, and I've got to document how that is wired before I move on. My preference would be to pick up the power right after the oil pressure switch, but if it ain't there...

So, run stator power to 85 and use the relay to power the heating element of your wideband as well as the voltmeter...

[85lebaront2]

Just talked to Jim at Innovate and he said the main problem people have is that they power the meter, and therefore the O2 sensor's heater, when the engine isn't running. So if you listen to the radio the heater has the sensor's ceramic element HOT, and if you then start the engine there's a wash of relatively cool air that hits the sensor and cracks it.

That's exactly the way I have it wired, so I need to change the wiring to only power the meter when the engine is running. I'll have to see how best to do that, but I'm sure there's an easy way to do that via the relays in the PDB.

Then, after I described my setup, he said I may also be overheating the O2 sensor since I'm running the AFR @ 14.7 and have ceramic-coated headers which keep the heat in. So he recommended the bung extension, although at 2" long I'll have to make a minor change.

In the pic below, which is taken from below the driver's side exhaust, you can see the wide-band sensor for the Innovate AFR meter to the front/right and the narrow-band sensor for the EFI system to the left/rear. Adding the 2" bung extension in the front position would put the wires very close to the tranny, so I'll swap the sensor positions and then there'll be plenty of room for the extension.

Gary, since I used the 1990 head pipes on Darth, I used the original location for the single O2 sensor where there is a short cross pipe between the two head pipes. It is back near the transmission cross member just ahead of the large flange where the catalytic converter went on the 1990 F250.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, since I used the 1990 head pipes on Darth, I used the original location for the single O2 sensor where there is a short cross pipe between the two head pipes. It is back near the transmission cross member just ahead of the large flange where the catalytic converter went on the 1990 F250.

Jim - That's one approach and I may take it. But I want to understand what I have before making a decision, so I'm planning to spend a bit of time in the morning to check things out.

Bill - As you saw I have two bungs on the DS exhaust pipe right behind the cone, and on the PS the one bung is on the cone. If I had it to do over again I might change that, and certainly would put a 2nd one on the PS, but I hope I don't have to do it again.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - That's one approach and I may take it. But I want to understand what I have before making a decision, so I'm planning to spend a bit of time in the morning to check things out.

Bill - As you saw I have two bungs on the DS exhaust pipe right behind the cone, and on the PS the one bung is on the cone. If I had it to do over again I might change that, and certainly would put a 2nd one on the PS, but I hope I don't have to do it again.

I'm a simple person

I usually go for the simple solution (that works)

[Gary Lewis]

I'm a simple person

I usually go for the simple solution (that works)

As it turns out there's no oil pressure switch on the engine, just the oil pressure sender and a tap for the mechanical gauge. And I found the diagram below that shows how it is wired, which I need to get into the documentation.

The fuel pump is primed for a few seconds when you first turn the key on as well as during cranking, and while that would probably work as the O2 sensor wouldn't get too hot in that brief time it isn't ideal.

Here's what the Innovate owner's manual says:

Connect the RED wire to an isolated switched 12V source in your vehicle. A switched 12V source goes ON as soon as “key on” power is active. The circuit to which you will pull power from should be able to support a 3 amp draw. Make sure this connection is protected with a 5A fuse.

Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional circuit using an automotive relay available at any automotive parts supplier.

So I'm warming to the idea of changing the Key On relay to be triggered by the stator wire. I am not sure the R/O wire to the voltmeter is the right size to also power the AFR meter so while I have the PS PDB out to change the trigger wire I could run a new wire.

[FordFETruck]

As it turns out there's no oil pressure switch on the engine, just the oil pressure sender and a tap for the mechanical gauge. And I found the diagram below that shows how it is wired, which I need to get into the documentation.

The fuel pump is primed for a few seconds when you first turn the key on as well as during cranking, and while that would probably work as the O2 sensor wouldn't get too hot in that brief time it isn't ideal.

Here's what the Innovate owner's manual says:

Connect the RED wire to an isolated switched 12V source in your vehicle. A switched 12V source goes ON as soon as “key on” power is active. The circuit to which you will pull power from should be able to support a 3 amp draw. Make sure this connection is protected with a 5A fuse.

Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional circuit using an automotive relay available at any automotive parts supplier.

So I'm warming to the idea of changing the Key On relay to be triggered by the stator wire. I am not sure the R/O wire to the voltmeter is the right size to also power the AFR meter so while I have the PS PDB out to change the trigger wire I could run a new wire.

Alright this morning I replaced the redhead steering box with an actual Motorcraft STG41 reman box and the truck drives great. No play in the steering and the steering is now light and easy (never was with the redhead box) and it helped the lack of steering return to center out quite a bit and the alignment should take care of the rest of that. I could turn the Motorcraft box by hand and the Redhead it was stiff even with vise grips locked onto the input shaft. I experimented and it took 5 turns loosening the preload adjustment for it to feel as smooth as the Motorcraft box but had a ton of slop in it by that point. I don't think they set something up right in the redhead as it's always been super stiff to steer compared to anything else I've driven. I also adjusted some slack out of the parking brake cable.

[Gary Lewis]

Alright this morning I replaced the redhead steering box with an actual Motorcraft STG41 reman box and the truck drives great. No play in the steering and the steering is now light and easy (never was with the redhead box) and it helped the lack of steering return to center out quite a bit and the alignment should take care of the rest of that. I could turn the Motorcraft box by hand and the Redhead it was stiff even with vise grips locked onto the input shaft. I experimented and it took 5 turns loosening the preload adjustment for it to feel as smooth as the Motorcraft box but had a ton of slop in it by that point. I don't think they set something up right in the redhead as it's always been super stiff to steer compared to anything else I've driven. I also adjusted some slack out of the parking brake cable.

Glad you got the steering sorted. But hope you didn't have to adjust the new box. The process for making that adjustment isn't easy and needs to be done with the Pitman arm disconnected.

[FordFETruck]

Glad you got the steering sorted. But hope you didn't have to adjust the new box. The process for making that adjustment isn't easy and needs to be done with the Pitman arm disconnected.

Seems to be perfect as it is. Steering is precise and smooth at the same time. I was doing some reading and the Motorcraft reman boxes are supposed to have brand new sector shafts and precision fit ball bearings for the worm screw and anything else that needs replaced is replaced with new. The one I got works great, so they seem to be a good affordable option.