85lebaront2 Posted April 7 Share Posted April 7 Gary, I need your help. Do you have the clearance specs and drag torque for a 10.25? I'm up at my brothers with minimal tools and no manuals Jim, I can pull it off my AllData. Differential Assembly: Service and Repair Final Assembly and Adjustment 1. If removed, install new bearing cups using suitable tool. Ensure that cups are properly seated in their bores. If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between a cup and the bottom of its bore at any point around cup, the cup is not properly seated. Whenever cups are replaced, the cone and roller assembly should also be replaced. 2. Using proper rear axle pinion depth gauge tool, assemble appropriate aligning adapter, gauge disc and gauge block to screw. 3. Place rear pinion bearing over aligning disc and insert it into rear pinion bearing cup and assemble tool handle to screw. Roll assembly back and forth a few times to seat bearings while tightening tool handle by hand. Torque tool handle to 20 ft. lbs. The gauge block must be offset 45° to obtain accurate reading. 4. Center gauge tube into differential bearing bore, then install bearing caps, torquing bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. Select thickest shim that will enter between gauge tube and gauge block. Insert shim directly along gauge block to insure a correct reading. The shim fit should be a slight drag-type feel. Shims used for gauging must be flat to obtain correct feel. 5. Place selected shim(s) on pinion and press pinion bearing cone and roller assembly until it is firmly seated on shaft. The same rear pinion bearing used in this procedure must be used in final assembly of axle. Ensure that press load is not applied to bearing cage. 6. Check splines on pinion shaft to be sure that they are free of burrs. If burrs are evident, remove them with a fine crocus cloth, working in a rotational motion, then wipe pinion clean. 7. Place collapsible spacer on pinion shaft against rear bearing. 8. Working from rear of axle housing, install drive pinion assembly into housing pinion shaft bore. 9. Install front cone and roller and the oil slinger on pinion shaft. 10. Clean oil seal seat surface, then, using suitable tool, install seal in carrier and pack lips of seal with suitable lubricant. Installation without proper tool may result in early seal failure. If seal becomes cocked during installation, remove it and install new one. 11. Apply small amount of suitable lubricant to companion shaft splines, align mark on companion flange with mark on pinion shaft, install flange and install new nut on pinion shaft. If a new companion flange is being installed, disregard scribe mark on pinion shaft. The companion flange must never be hammered on or installed with power tools. 12. Hold companion flange with suitable tool and tighten pinion nut to minimum torque of 160 ft. lbs., rotating pinion occasionally to insure proper bearing seating. Take frequent pinion bearing torque preload readings until original recorded preload reading is obtained. 13. If original recorded preload is lower than 8---13 inch lbs. for original bearings, or less than 16---29 inch lbs. for new bearings, torque pinion nut to 140 ft. lbs. on 6-3/4 inch ring gear, 170 ft. lbs. on 7-1/2 inch ring gear, or 217 ft. lbs. on 8.8 and 10.25 inch ring gears. If preload is higher than specification, torque to original reading as recorded. Under no circumstances should pinion nut be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible pinion spacer and pinion nut must be installed. 14. Apply suitable lubricant to new wheel bearing and install bearing into housing using suitable tool. 15. Pack lips of seal with suitable lubricant and install axle shaft seal using suitable tool. Installation of bearing or seal assembly without proper tool may result in early bearing or seal failure. If seal becomes cocked in bore during installation, remove it and install new one. 16. Place differential case subassembly in carrier. 17. Install a .265 inch shim on left side. 18. Install left bearing cap and tighten bolts finger tight. 19. Install progressively larger shims on right side until largest shim selected can be assembled with a slight drag feel. Apply pressure towards left side to ensure that bearing cup is seated. 20. Install right side bearing cap and torque cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. 21. Rotate assembly to insure free rotation. 22. Check ring gear and pinion backlash. If backlash is .008---.015 inch, proceed to step 29. If backlash is zero, proceed to step 23. If backlash is not zero and not .008---.015 inch, proceed to step 25. 23. If backlash is zero, add .020 inch to right side and subtract .020 inch from left side. 24. Recheck backlash. If backlash is not within specification, proceed to step 25. If backlash is within specification, proceed to step 26. 25. If backlash is not within specification, correct backlash by increasing thickness of one shim and decreasing thickness of other shim by same amount. 26. Install shim and bearing caps, torquing cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. 27. Rotate assembly several times to ensure proper seating of differential bearings. 28. Recheck backlash. If backlash is within specification, proceed to step 29. If backlash is not within specification, proceed to step 25. 29. Increase both left and right shim sizes by .006 inch and install for correct differential bearing preload. Ensure that shims are fully seated and assembly turns freely. 30. Using white marking compound, obtain tooth mesh contact pattern. Pattern legibility can be improved by connecting driveshaft and rotating both tires in drive and coast direction. If gross pattern error is detected, recheck pinion shim selection. 31. Install bearing caps and torque cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. Recheck backlash. If backlash is not within specification, repeat step 25. 32. Install axle shafts, then install differential cover and fill differential with suitable lubricant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 Jim, I can pull it off my AllData. Differential Assembly: Service and Repair Final Assembly and Adjustment 1. If removed, install new bearing cups using suitable tool. Ensure that cups are properly seated in their bores. If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between a cup and the bottom of its bore at any point around cup, the cup is not properly seated. Whenever cups are replaced, the cone and roller assembly should also be replaced. 2. Using proper rear axle pinion depth gauge tool, assemble appropriate aligning adapter, gauge disc and gauge block to screw. 3. Place rear pinion bearing over aligning disc and insert it into rear pinion bearing cup and assemble tool handle to screw. Roll assembly back and forth a few times to seat bearings while tightening tool handle by hand. Torque tool handle to 20 ft. lbs. The gauge block must be offset 45° to obtain accurate reading. 4. Center gauge tube into differential bearing bore, then install bearing caps, torquing bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. Select thickest shim that will enter between gauge tube and gauge block. Insert shim directly along gauge block to insure a correct reading. The shim fit should be a slight drag-type feel. Shims used for gauging must be flat to obtain correct feel. 5. Place selected shim(s) on pinion and press pinion bearing cone and roller assembly until it is firmly seated on shaft. The same rear pinion bearing used in this procedure must be used in final assembly of axle. Ensure that press load is not applied to bearing cage. 6. Check splines on pinion shaft to be sure that they are free of burrs. If burrs are evident, remove them with a fine crocus cloth, working in a rotational motion, then wipe pinion clean. 7. Place collapsible spacer on pinion shaft against rear bearing. 8. Working from rear of axle housing, install drive pinion assembly into housing pinion shaft bore. 9. Install front cone and roller and the oil slinger on pinion shaft. 10. Clean oil seal seat surface, then, using suitable tool, install seal in carrier and pack lips of seal with suitable lubricant. Installation without proper tool may result in early seal failure. If seal becomes cocked during installation, remove it and install new one. 11. Apply small amount of suitable lubricant to companion shaft splines, align mark on companion flange with mark on pinion shaft, install flange and install new nut on pinion shaft. If a new companion flange is being installed, disregard scribe mark on pinion shaft. The companion flange must never be hammered on or installed with power tools. 12. Hold companion flange with suitable tool and tighten pinion nut to minimum torque of 160 ft. lbs., rotating pinion occasionally to insure proper bearing seating. Take frequent pinion bearing torque preload readings until original recorded preload reading is obtained. 13. If original recorded preload is lower than 8---13 inch lbs. for original bearings, or less than 16---29 inch lbs. for new bearings, torque pinion nut to 140 ft. lbs. on 6-3/4 inch ring gear, 170 ft. lbs. on 7-1/2 inch ring gear, or 217 ft. lbs. on 8.8 and 10.25 inch ring gears. If preload is higher than specification, torque to original reading as recorded. Under no circumstances should pinion nut be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible pinion spacer and pinion nut must be installed. 14. Apply suitable lubricant to new wheel bearing and install bearing into housing using suitable tool. 15. Pack lips of seal with suitable lubricant and install axle shaft seal using suitable tool. Installation of bearing or seal assembly without proper tool may result in early bearing or seal failure. If seal becomes cocked in bore during installation, remove it and install new one. 16. Place differential case subassembly in carrier. 17. Install a .265 inch shim on left side. 18. Install left bearing cap and tighten bolts finger tight. 19. Install progressively larger shims on right side until largest shim selected can be assembled with a slight drag feel. Apply pressure towards left side to ensure that bearing cup is seated. 20. Install right side bearing cap and torque cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. 21. Rotate assembly to insure free rotation. 22. Check ring gear and pinion backlash. If backlash is .008---.015 inch, proceed to step 29. If backlash is zero, proceed to step 23. If backlash is not zero and not .008---.015 inch, proceed to step 25. 23. If backlash is zero, add .020 inch to right side and subtract .020 inch from left side. 24. Recheck backlash. If backlash is not within specification, proceed to step 25. If backlash is within specification, proceed to step 26. 25. If backlash is not within specification, correct backlash by increasing thickness of one shim and decreasing thickness of other shim by same amount. 26. Install shim and bearing caps, torquing cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. 27. Rotate assembly several times to ensure proper seating of differential bearings. 28. Recheck backlash. If backlash is within specification, proceed to step 29. If backlash is not within specification, proceed to step 25. 29. Increase both left and right shim sizes by .006 inch and install for correct differential bearing preload. Ensure that shims are fully seated and assembly turns freely. 30. Using white marking compound, obtain tooth mesh contact pattern. Pattern legibility can be improved by connecting driveshaft and rotating both tires in drive and coast direction. If gross pattern error is detected, recheck pinion shim selection. 31. Install bearing caps and torque cap bolts to 70---85 ft. lbs. Recheck backlash. If backlash is not within specification, repeat step 25. 32. Install axle shafts, then install differential cover and fill differential with suitable lubricant. That seems complicated, with aot of jig shafts and special tools. I got the truck up on stands, axles removed, cover chiseled off (Man, that green gear lube RTV is tough!) and starting to assemble new parts. The DC891 impact is a beast for a mid- weight. I can pre assemble the carrier tomorrow, early. I figured out that if I only take pictures in landscape, with the buttons up the photo is correctly oriented. But I can't do that, always..... I covered the hubs for the night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 That seems complicated, with aot of jig shafts and special tools. Without specials tools and with this sick leg, certainly not easy! Don't give up, you are courageous Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 That seems complicated, with aot of jig shafts and special tools. Without specials tools and with this sick leg, certainly not easy! Don't give up, you are courageous Jim! I'm dumb as a stump, Jeff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 That seems complicated, with aot of jig shafts and special tools. I got the truck up on stands, axles removed, cover chiseled off (Man, that green gear lube RTV is tough!) and starting to assemble new parts. The DC891 impact is a beast for a mid- weight. I can pre assemble the carrier tomorrow, early. I figured out that if I only take pictures in landscape, with the buttons up the photo is correctly oriented. But I can't do that, always..... I covered the hubs for the night Jim, when I did my friend's 10.25" axle (a) it was out of his truck as it was a junkyard axle that he wanted a disc brake setup installed on and (b) I could position the axle so installing the limited slip carrier assembly could be installed by "dropping" it in. The service kit I ordered came with a slip fit outer pinion bearing so the preload could be set easily along with the inner race shims. I also have the actual 10.25" axle service tool set (eBay), which definitely helped. There is one part of the set that got a lot of use, the pinion R&R set (one to pull the outer bearing on and one to drive the pinion back out). Biggest issue I had with the carrier bearing shims, Ford "shims" are actually thick spacers, the service kit shims are just that, shim stock rings in various thicknesses and the thinner ones love to fold while tring to stuff everything in. Side bearings were another PITA to remove, for the gear side, large bearing splitter, two 3/4-16 bolts with as much thread as possible and just jack the bearing cone and roller off the carrier. Other end would just fit in the press. I used a big pipe wrench, a 4' length of exhaust pipe and a good sized C clamp to tighten or loosen the pinion nut (kit had a non prevailing torque nut for fit-up purposes). The yoke that came with the used axle, had one of the U-joint retaining tabs broken off, so it was used to set up the pinion bearings. 12 ton press was very useful for the pinion bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 Now you're just being an ass. I picked THIS up at AZ when I went for supplies and feeler gauges this morning What is that? A belt buckle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 Jim, when I did my friend's 10.25" axle (a) it was out of his truck as it was a junkyard axle that he wanted a disc brake setup installed on and (b) I could position the axle so installing the limited slip carrier assembly could be installed by "dropping" it in. The service kit I ordered came with a slip fit outer pinion bearing so the preload could be set easily along with the inner race shims. I also have the actual 10.25" axle service tool set (eBay), which definitely helped. There is one part of the set that got a lot of use, the pinion R&R set (one to pull the outer bearing on and one to drive the pinion back out). Biggest issue I had with the carrier bearing shims, Ford "shims" are actually thick spacers, the service kit shims are just that, shim stock rings in various thicknesses and the thinner ones love to fold while tring to stuff everything in. Side bearings were another PITA to remove, for the gear side, large bearing splitter, two 3/4-16 bolts with as much thread as possible and just jack the bearing cone and roller off the carrier. Other end would just fit in the press. I used a big pipe wrench, a 4' length of exhaust pipe and a good sized C clamp to tighten or loosen the pinion nut (kit had a non prevailing torque nut for fit-up purposes). The yoke that came with the used axle, had one of the U-joint retaining tabs broken off, so it was used to set up the pinion bearings. 12 ton press was very useful for the pinion bearings. Ooof, this is gonna be a challenge, on my back, in a driveway, I've already spent a (half) fortune at Horrid Fate. 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 Ooof, this is gonna be a challenge, on my back, in a driveway, I've already spent a (half) fortune at Horrid Fate. 😂 I try not to go in there too much. That's how I go broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 I try not to go in there too much. That's how I go broke. It's not like I really have any options..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 What is that? A belt buckle? It's a refrigerator magnet. Licensed by The Motor Company They also had a couple of styles of blue oval. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts