ArdWrknTrk Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Drove the truck to work and back today, I was on vacation last week and didn't drive it after making a Lowes run after doing the front-end work. I need to center the steering wheel since it's a little off to the left but it sure is a lot smoother driving down the highway than it used to be. The truck sat for 7 days, man that thing blew all kinds of weird smoke for about 3 minutes. That problem is getting worse, and I need to do something about it sometime soon, I could smell oil this time for the first time. For the past few years if it sits for more than a few days it has this really weird bright blue exhaust that starts 30 seconds to a minute after starting and usually goes away completely by the end of my street and it does not linger in the air like oil smoke usually does, it goes away like its condensation steam but it also only runs on 7 cylinders for about the first 10-30 seconds until I kick the high idle down or rev the engine a bit then it runs fine on 8 cylinders. Never have been able to find any vacuum leaks, doesn't seem to be the choke setting as I've messed with that with no change, can't find any issues with the ignition system and everything is fresh. I think this engine is getting a bit tired. The cylinders all had a bit of a ring ridge and no crosshatch left when I put my Edelbrock heads on back in 2016, so no real surprise there. I'm not sure what happened to this engine but about 4 years ago it developed some blow by when warm just out of nowhere one day, usually runs on 7 cylinders after cold start and runs on 8 either by itself after a minute at the most or if I rev it or kick the high idle down a bit, rough idle most of the time and random misfires at idle not associated to carb or ignition. It runs excellent going down the road. Before all of this happened the engine always idled really smoothly. I've been trying to search for a decent deal for a short block but not coming up with much. Anyone have any experience with the Power Torque short or long block engines from Oreilly's? After my last engine build costing twice of what I wanted it to, I'd rather not try to find another block then take it to the machine shop. The 94-96 351W roller block is about $1800 from Oreilly's. Valve seals? Does it smoke if you really put your foot in it and then back off? I can't imagine what else would cause smoke on startup after sitting. Is your 351 like some 302's that have the PCV going to one runner instead of the plenum? A little too much blow by and that single runner gets filled with oil mist. This causes a fouled plug and detonation in the cylinder, which causes broken lands, rings or a melted piston..... It's a vicious cycle known to many Mustang owners. (I haven't owned a Windsor since that '85 GT) If you're buying a roller block engine don't you have to return the same, as core? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Drove the truck to work and back today, I was on vacation last week and didn't drive it after making a Lowes run after doing the front-end work. I need to center the steering wheel since it's a little off to the left but it sure is a lot smoother driving down the highway than it used to be. The truck sat for 7 days, man that thing blew all kinds of weird smoke for about 3 minutes. That problem is getting worse, and I need to do something about it sometime soon, I could smell oil this time for the first time. For the past few years if it sits for more than a few days it has this really weird bright blue exhaust that starts 30 seconds to a minute after starting and usually goes away completely by the end of my street and it does not linger in the air like oil smoke usually does, it goes away like its condensation steam but it also only runs on 7 cylinders for about the first 10-30 seconds until I kick the high idle down or rev the engine a bit then it runs fine on 8 cylinders. Never have been able to find any vacuum leaks, doesn't seem to be the choke setting as I've messed with that with no change, can't find any issues with the ignition system and everything is fresh. I think this engine is getting a bit tired. The cylinders all had a bit of a ring ridge and no crosshatch left when I put my Edelbrock heads on back in 2016, so no real surprise there. I'm not sure what happened to this engine but about 4 years ago it developed some blow by when warm just out of nowhere one day, usually runs on 7 cylinders after cold start and runs on 8 either by itself after a minute at the most or if I rev it or kick the high idle down a bit, rough idle most of the time and random misfires at idle not associated to carb or ignition. It runs excellent going down the road. Before all of this happened the engine always idled really smoothly. I've been trying to search for a decent deal for a short block but not coming up with much. Anyone have any experience with the Power Torque short or long block engines from Oreilly's? After my last engine build costing twice of what I wanted it to, I'd rather not try to find another block then take it to the machine shop. The 94-96 351W roller block is about $1800 from Oreilly's. Just to rule out a common issue, possibly sucking ATF from the C6 vacuum modulator through the intake. Pull vacuum hose off modulator and see if fluid leaks out, if it does you’ve found the problem. I always hope it’s something simple… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Just to rule out a common issue, possibly sucking ATF from the C6 vacuum modulator through the intake. Pull vacuum hose off modulator and see if fluid leaks out, if it does you’ve found the problem. I always hope it’s something simple… Why would that be worse at startup after sitting, than when you chopped the throttle, and vacuum spiked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Why would that be worse at startup after sitting, than when you chopped the throttle, and vacuum spiked? the pcv is a worthwhile Ave to look into. start by inspecting the plugs.an 86 351 should have a carb plenum pcv port though. however, you may have already answered the question with "ridge and no real crosshatch" no crosshatch leads to less cylinder oiling/cooling. btw 1800 for a short block is not expensive these days. I just got a 4.6 from them three months ago for 3500. and the Windsor's I sell start at 3k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Why would that be worse at startup after sitting, than when you chopped the throttle, and vacuum spiked? Agreed. Bright blue smoke exhaust rules out ATF. Just noticed that. ATF will be white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Agreed. Bright blue smoke exhaust rules out ATF. Just noticed that. ATF will be white. I should have mentioned that I replaced the shift modulator last year adjusted it last week, no leakage into the vacuum line there. The smoke gets worse with acceleration and goes away with decel. The heads and valve seals have 15,000 miles on them. I suspected it might be valve seals but couldn't find anything wrong when I changed valve cover gaskets last year and they are positive seals to boot. The PCV is hooked to the carb and not a single intake runner. I am really not that surprised if it's the rings 11 years ago before I put my camshaft in it there was a bunch of random glitter in the oil i still have no idea where it came from and the old cam and lifters looked fine, I suppose all of that didn't do anything any favors. I am pretty sure this short block that's in is almost as old as the truck anyways from what I have seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 I should have mentioned that I replaced the shift modulator last year adjusted it last week, no leakage into the vacuum line there. The smoke gets worse with acceleration and goes away with decel. The heads and valve seals have 15,000 miles on them. I suspected it might be valve seals but couldn't find anything wrong when I changed valve cover gaskets last year and they are positive seals to boot. The PCV is hooked to the carb and not a single intake runner. I am really not that surprised if it's the rings 11 years ago before I put my camshaft in it there was a bunch of random glitter in the oil i still have no idea where it came from and the old cam and lifters looked fine, I suppose all of that didn't do anything any favors. I am pretty sure this short block that's in is almost as old as the truck anyways from what I have seen. if there was a case of glitter in the oil than I'm sure the bearings would like a visit also. they don't always knock if the timing is right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 if there was a case of glitter in the oil than I'm sure the bearings would like a visit also. they don't always knock if the timing is right. Yeah I'm surprised the oil pressure never dropped off after that event. Still 65 PSI cold and 20-25 hot idle and 45-50 PSI going down the road hot. The cam bearings were worn on the bottom half when I put the cam in also so I'm sure the main and rods are about the same condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Yeah I'm surprised the oil pressure never dropped off after that event. Still 65 PSI cold and 20-25 hot idle and 45-50 PSI going down the road hot. The cam bearings were worn on the bottom half when I put the cam in also so I'm sure the main and rods are about the same condition. I'm surprised that you can get any long block for $1800. (even from Mexico) I'm looking at 3k minimum for the basic components I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 I'm surprised that you can get any long block for $1800. (even from Mexico) I'm looking at 3k minimum for the basic components I want. Short blocks are about $1800 at the cheapest, long blocks are about $2600. My last engine build, a 390 was $6500 and $3000 of that just for the machine shop bill. Of course, I had to buy another engine block and pay for a mag and sonic test twice because of that, source a good 390 crank, a set of rods, etc so that added cost to that build that normally wouldn't have been necessary, but I'd rather not have to find a 351W block and take it to the machine shop if I don't have to. Not to mention my time, I have a lot of major work I want to do to my house this year and don't plan on working on cars much more this year. Lots of projects, not enough time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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