essmaker Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 No, JB Weld isn't conductive. But I think that piece is just a shroud over the bulb. However, if it isn't just a shroud then a jumper will need to be soldered between the pieces. Gary - you have got to stop making the parts finding look so easy. 😀 Many thanks, again. If I was in the barn I would confirm, but I believe it was a two wire which would mean it isn't needed for grounding. I am going to try this LED bulb out. I have had good luck with the company previously. Keiurot 1893 Led Bulb 1895 1815 1816 53 57 Bulb BA9S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 Gary - you have got to stop making the parts finding look so easy. 😀 Many thanks, again. If I was in the barn I would confirm, but I believe it was a two wire which would mean it isn't needed for grounding. I am going to try this LED bulb out. I have had good luck with the company previously. Keiurot 1893 Led Bulb 1895 1815 1816 53 57 Bulb BA9S We have most things we need on the site, but in some cases I'm the only one that knows where I put it. (And sometimes even I can't find it. ) However, when someone asks a question for which we don't have the info on the site, I like to scan it in so we can not only answer the question now but any time we need to in the future. Like the question earlier in the week about the torque value for an 8.8" Traction-Lok. We didn't even have that section of the factory shop manual in. We do now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 We have most things we need on the site, but in some cases I'm the only one that knows where I put it. (And sometimes even I can't find it. ) However, when someone asks a question for which we don't have the info on the site, I like to scan it in so we can not only answer the question now but any time we need to in the future. Like the question earlier in the week about the torque value for an 8.8" Traction-Lok. We didn't even have that section of the factory shop manual in. We do now. Alright I got the front end work done today. I still need to reset the toe alignment tomorrow as the steering wheel is off center, but it drives good. The new Moog CC820 springs ride a lot smoother than the original springs did. The steering return to center still sucks but it steers easier and returns to center easier now and doesn't seem to bump steer at all anymore. Overall, quite the improvement. I forgot to measure but the front end sits probably 2 inches higher than before. Also put Gabriel Proguard shocks on the front, did the rear last weekend. Those shocks ride and handle way nicer than the KYB gas a just shocks did I put on it last time. I've installed Gabriel Ultra shocks and struts on quite a few vehicles now with really good results but these were the first time using the proguards. Very hard to compress but somehow ride really smooth. I'm surprised. The NOS polyurethane TRW offset radius arm bushings installed. I installed them for more positive caster according to the instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Alright I got the front end work done today. I still need to reset the toe alignment tomorrow as the steering wheel is off center, but it drives good. The new Moog CC820 springs ride a lot smoother than the original springs did. The steering return to center still sucks but it steers easier and returns to center easier now and doesn't seem to bump steer at all anymore. Overall, quite the improvement. I forgot to measure but the front end sits probably 2 inches higher than before. Also put Gabriel Proguard shocks on the front, did the rear last weekend. Those shocks ride and handle way nicer than the KYB gas a just shocks did I put on it last time. I've installed Gabriel Ultra shocks and struts on quite a few vehicles now with really good results but these were the first time using the proguards. Very hard to compress but somehow ride really smooth. I'm surprised. The NOS polyurethane TRW offset radius arm bushings installed. I installed them for more positive caster according to the instructions. I don't have radius arms.... So, the hole is off center and you install with the hole at the top to increase the spindle upright angle? And you still have issues with the steering returning to center??? Is your box set too tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 I don't have radius arms.... So, the hole is off center and you install with the hole at the top to increase the spindle upright angle? And you still have issues with the steering returning to center??? Is your box set too tight? It says to install with hole facing the bottom for more positive caster. I can rotate them with a big pair of pliers or a giant crescent wrench if I back the nuts off to adjust caster. Steering box doesn't feel overly tight but might be. I might loosen it a bit after I do the toe in setting, and I will check the caster and camber as well. But yeah, the last 1/4 turn from straight either way there really isn't any return to center whatsoever, never has been no matter what I have done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 It says to install with hole facing the bottom for more positive caster. I can rotate them with a big pair of pliers or a giant crescent wrench if I back the nuts off to adjust caster. Steering box doesn't feel overly tight but might be. I might loosen it a bit after I do the toe in setting, and I will check the caster and camber as well. But yeah, the last 1/4 turn from straight either way there really isn't any return to center whatsoever, never has been no matter what I have done. I'm not familiar with adjustments to these lighter duty pickups. Where is your toe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 I'm not familiar with adjustments to these lighter duty pickups. Where is your toe? I had it set 1/8" in total last time, not sure what it is now as the steering wheel is off center after doing the work, so maybe its out of alignment and that will help. It does drive very straight though, so not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 I had it set 1/8" in total last time, not sure what it is now as the steering wheel is off center after doing the work, so maybe its out of alignment and that will help. It does drive very straight though, so not sure. What you are describing is what I've experienced when tightening the adjustment on the steering box. With a worn box you either have slop & return to center, or no slop and no return. I always had to put the box back to where it originally was. If someone has previously adjusted your box and not marked where it was originally then you are going to have a hard time getting it back. But I'd mark where it is now and then loosen it about 1/16 turn. Does that allow it to return? Does it feel like it is still tight and needs a bit more? If backing it off lets it return but then introduces slop you have a worn steering box. And you'll have to decide if you can live with it or want better steering. If so replace the box with a Redhead or Blue Top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 I had it set 1/8" in total last time, not sure what it is now as the steering wheel is off center after doing the work, so maybe its out of alignment and that will help. It does drive very straight though, so not sure. if the new springs changed the ride height, then all other settings got affected. the caster adjustments for certain. starting out with the offset at 6 o clock is the most caster you can get. the camber bushings are next as when you lift you add positive camber. next, with unequal steering links, one side will be affected more than the other and will typically cause the wheel to go off center and add toe in. on kingpin models, caster adjustable radius arms are about all you can adjust but ball joint models whether bull nose or later, can be adjusted for both caster and camber. don't adjust the steering gear before proving all other adjustments are true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 if the new springs changed the ride height, then all other settings got affected. the caster adjustments for certain. starting out with the offset at 6 o clock is the most caster you can get. the camber bushings are next as when you lift you add positive camber. next, with unequal steering links, one side will be affected more than the other and will typically cause the wheel to go off center and add toe in. on kingpin models, caster adjustable radius arms are about all you can adjust but ball joint models whether bull nose or later, can be adjusted for both caster and camber. don't adjust the steering gear before proving all other adjustments are true. I put a redhead box in about 9 years ago. Even with the crappy old box, it still didn't return to center any different although I have adjusted this box both tighter and looser over the years and it hasn't made much difference for return to center. Get this, if I back out of the driveway it has extremely good return to center all the way to the wheels pointing straight but not going forward. Truck also has king pins, that's why I bought the offset radius arm bushings to try and help get as much caster along with restoring the ride height to what I assume stock would have been with the new coil springs. One thing I will say is the faster I drive the truck the less noticeable the problem seems to be. Flying down the highway at 60 MPH plus it's really not noticeable at all as far as driving it, only at slower speeds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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