essmaker Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 I got the engine in before the real cold weather, so I was tuning the choke mostly. now that it is warming up, I'm finding the lean feel so I'm thinking the choke is going to prove to be too tight also. I'm really interested in how the advance adjustment will respond. this is the truck which was a 3.8 and is now a 30 over 302 with gt40p heads and weiand intake with 351 ho cam. My main mission right now is to get the interior put back together. Of course that means tearing apart the dash to clean and paint parts. Nothing is quick on my projects 😀 While in the dash, I found the light which illuminates the headlight and wiper switches was cable-tied to its mount. I then remembered a part I found in the ash tray....which amazingly is part of it (a shield to direct the light) The spot welds broke on it. I have looked on LMC as well as a general search with no luck. Anyone have a source? Do you JB Weld would work, considering there will be a fair amount of heat from the bulb? Other ideas? What I think the part numbers are on it: EOTB 138757-A8 or maybe 13B757-A8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 My main mission right now is to get the interior put back together. Of course that means tearing apart the dash to clean and paint parts. Nothing is quick on my projects 😀 While in the dash, I found the light which illuminates the headlight and wiper switches was cable-tied to its mount. I then remembered a part I found in the ash tray....which amazingly is part of it (a shield to direct the light) The spot welds broke on it. I have looked on LMC as well as a general search with no luck. Anyone have a source? Do you JB Weld would work, considering there will be a fair amount of heat from the bulb? Other ideas? What I think the part numbers are on it: EOTB 138757-A8 or maybe 13B757-A8 First, since the number is on the part it is not the part number. Yes, that's true. Go see our page at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers for an explanation. However, you got close. Your EOTB can't be right as the 2nd digit of the prefix has to be a number not an alpha so that's E0TB. But 13B757 is the right "group number" for SHIELD ASSY. (INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT). And ID# E0TB 13B757-AB cross references to PN E0TZ 13B757-A, which was used from 1980 through at least 1989 on all F & U-series vehicles. So the latter is what a Ford parts man would need to order one. But those that don't truly speak Ford might list the part for sale using the ID#. Having said all of that, I'd just put the parts back together with JB Weld. And if you are worried about heat just use an LED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 I got the engine in before the real cold weather, so I was tuning the choke mostly. now that it is warming up, I'm finding the lean feel so I'm thinking the choke is going to prove to be too tight also. I'm really interested in how the advance adjustment will respond. this is the truck which was a 3.8 and is now a 30 over 302 with gt40p heads and weiand intake with 351 ho cam. I'm sure you'll get it tuned nicely, Mat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 My main mission right now is to get the interior put back together. Of course that means tearing apart the dash to clean and paint parts. Nothing is quick on my projects 😀 While in the dash, I found the light which illuminates the headlight and wiper switches was cable-tied to its mount. I then remembered a part I found in the ash tray....which amazingly is part of it (a shield to direct the light) The spot welds broke on it. I have looked on LMC as well as a general search with no luck. Anyone have a source? Do you JB Weld would work, considering there will be a fair amount of heat from the bulb? Other ideas? What I think the part numbers are on it: EOTB 138757-A8 or maybe 13B757-A8 Use an LED and heat isn't an issue. Vibration is, though. If you go the steel filled epoxy route you might consider building up either side, like a fillet or gusset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essmaker Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 First, since the number is on the part it is not the part number. Yes, that's true. Go see our page at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers for an explanation. However, you got close. Your EOTB can't be right as the 2nd digit of the prefix has to be a number not an alpha so that's E0TB. But 13B757 is the right "group number" for SHIELD ASSY. (INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT). And ID# E0TB 13B757-AB cross references to PN E0TZ 13B757-A, which was used from 1980 through at least 1989 on all F & U-series vehicles. So the latter is what a Ford parts man would need to order one. But those that don't truly speak Ford might list the part for sale using the ID#. Having said all of that, I'd just put the parts back together with JB Weld. And if you are worried about heat just use an LED. Wow....great info on the part number scheme...thank you. I think I am going to break out some jb Weld and get this out of the way. Thanks again While looking for other parts, I may see what I can find in LED as a direct replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 Wow....great info on the part number scheme...thank you. I think I am going to break out some jb Weld and get this out of the way. Thanks again While looking for other parts, I may see what I can find in LED as a direct replacement If you find an LED replacement please let us know what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essmaker Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 If you find an LED replacement please let us know what it is. I first need to figure out the original bulb that should have been there 😃 but I have a couple good LED sources that I have used for my boat I am sure I can find a LED replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 Having said all of that, I'd just put the parts back together with JB Weld. And if you are worried about heat just use an LED. Isn’t that bulb holder also acting as ground conductive? If so, I doubt that epoxy will do the job. But maybe JB Weld is conductive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 I first need to figure out the original bulb that should have been there 😃 but I have a couple good LED sources that I have used for my boat I am sure I can find a LED replacement. Here's Page 165 from the 1985 owner's manual: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 Having said all of that, I'd just put the parts back together with JB Weld. And if you are worried about heat just use an LED. Isn’t that bulb holder also acting as ground conductive? If so, I doubt that epoxy will do the job. But maybe JB Weld is conductive? No, JB Weld isn't conductive. But I think that piece is just a shroud over the bulb. However, if it isn't just a shroud then a jumper will need to be soldered between the pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts