Gary Lewis Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Observations: The truck shifts well through every gear. The truck drives fine in reverse!??? (I mean it doesn't even have the rattley gear noise) Dragging the brakes doesn't change the noise on trailing throttle Neutral or in any gear doesn't seem to change it either. I'm OMW to work. The UD will get me through the night. Strange. I'll keep you in my prayers, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 had the chance today to remove the carb and readjust. double checked the float setting and metering rod setting. found the metering rod still set a bit lean which may explain the weak throttle and low rpm knock that I have heard a couple times. got all reinstalled and re checked the idle air. all seems good so far and test drive should tell more. still trying to get better mpg on this one. so far not impressed. I get better from my v8s. test drive done and the truck runs as a 300 should. throttle response is great and tip in is about all that is needed. even getting onto the interstate. holding 75 mph is just too easy. odometer calibration is within 1/10th for ten miles so that may even be within tire pressure adjustments. not a single hint of engine knock nor a hint of rich idle. cold start was 99% perfect at 24 degrees. I'm just going to drive it now and move on to the next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 test drive done and the truck runs as a 300 should. throttle response is great and tip in is about all that is needed. even getting onto the interstate. holding 75 mph is just too easy. odometer calibration is within 1/10th for ten miles so that may even be within tire pressure adjustments. not a single hint of engine knock nor a hint of rich idle. cold start was 99% perfect at 24 degrees. I'm just going to drive it now and move on to the next. Congratulations!!! But remind us of the combination? This has the AOD and 4.10's? What tires? What cam? What R's are you running at, say, 65? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 test drive done and the truck runs as a 300 should. throttle response is great and tip in is about all that is needed. even getting onto the interstate. holding 75 mph is just too easy. odometer calibration is within 1/10th for ten miles so that may even be within tire pressure adjustments. not a single hint of engine knock nor a hint of rich idle. cold start was 99% perfect at 24 degrees. I'm just going to drive it now and move on to the next. Congratulations!!! But remind us of the combination? This has the AOD and 4.10's? What tires? What cam? What R's are you running at, say, 65? this is my original truck. 86 sb, 4x2 300/6 rebuilt 21 years ago with stock rebuild but .030 over. original tfi dist and the ecu along with yfa carb. recently converted from c6 to fresh rebuilt aod and last Saturday changed to a 4.10 rear gear sitting on 32x11.5 wildpeak at3s. 2k rpm 70 mph holds a steady 72 mph. I'm not sure about 65 as I never see it. with the c6 and 3.08 gears it ran and drove great. tha is why it took so long for me to alter "old reliable". but I do notice that I am using less throttle position per the speed traveled. before I just held to an average point, and it would really roll on going down hills and load up going up and a lot of that seems to be reduced now. a good long highway trip should tell more. ROAD TRIP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 test drive done and the truck runs as a 300 should. throttle response is great and tip in is about all that is needed. even getting onto the interstate. holding 75 mph is just too easy. odometer calibration is within 1/10th for ten miles so that may even be within tire pressure adjustments. not a single hint of engine knock nor a hint of rich idle. cold start was 99% perfect at 24 degrees. I'm just going to drive it now and move on to the next. Congratulations!!! But remind us of the combination? This has the AOD and 4.10's? What tires? What cam? What R's are you running at, say, 65? Well, I finally did it this morning, and destroyed the pinion yoke on my truck. It was 11° when I got off at 8. The shock was enough to knock my right side hubcap off. While I was able to recover my driveshaft I did not see the deep dish type 3 wheel cover anywhere. Not long ago I was bemoaning to closing of Excelsior Machine Works, the last and best driveline shop in the area. They had been in business for over 125 years.. 😢 So for now I have a front wheel drive pickup with a stub of 1 1/2" sch 40 keeping the fluid in my transfer case. Gary, if you could, can you get me the p/n's for a 10.25 yoke and the pinion nut+crush sleeve kit? I think I can come up with the correct seal, U-joint and u-bolts. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 Well, I finally did it this morning, and destroyed the pinion yoke on my truck. It was 11° when I got off at 8. The shock was enough to knock my right side hubcap off. While I was able to recover my driveshaft I did not see the deep dish type 3 wheel cover anywhere. Not long ago I was bemoaning to closing of Excelsior Machine Works, the last and best driveline shop in the area. They had been in business for over 125 years.. 😢 So for now I have a front wheel drive pickup with a stub of 1 1/2" sch 40 keeping the fluid in my transfer case. Gary, if you could, can you get me the p/n's for a 10.25 yoke and the pinion nut+crush sleeve kit? I think I can come up with the correct seal, U-joint and u-bolts. Thanks! Well, that's certainly a less-expensive problem than the whole differential. Let me see what I can find in PNs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 Well, that's certainly a less-expensive problem than the whole differential. Let me see what I can find in PNs... Is this what you need? Assuming you have a non-locking diff then you use parts list #258, and from that: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Is this what you need? Assuming you have a non-locking diff then you use parts list #258, and from that: So 'group 4209'is the bag with nut and crush collar in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Is this what you need? Assuming you have a non-locking diff then you use parts list #258, and from that: Whas the difference between an E5 deflector and D5 slinger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 this is my original truck. 86 sb, 4x2 300/6 rebuilt 21 years ago with stock rebuild but .030 over. original tfi dist and the ecu along with yfa carb. recently converted from c6 to fresh rebuilt aod and last Saturday changed to a 4.10 rear gear sitting on 32x11.5 wildpeak at3s. 2k rpm 70 mph holds a steady 72 mph. I'm not sure about 65 as I never see it. with the c6 and 3.08 gears it ran and drove great. tha is why it took so long for me to alter "old reliable". but I do notice that I am using less throttle position per the speed traveled. before I just held to an average point, and it would really roll on going down hills and load up going up and a lot of that seems to be reduced now. a good long highway trip should tell more. ROAD TRIP! Mat - If you are able to maintain 70 MPH and not shift out of OD on the AOD then you are set up well. And your overall gear ratio is very close to Big Blue's as he turns right at 2K at 72 MPH. (He doesn't downshift on hills either. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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