WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[grumpin]

I was able to cut most of the rust out. There are still a few pinholes showing through the floor sheet metal, but I'm thinking it would be wiser to just run some POR 15 rust converter over the area, and then some POR15 top coat (If needed) and then some paint over that. That will seal the pinholes and prevent them from growing.

I'm probably going to use a lap joint over the floor sheet metal for the floor repair, and that will lead into a 90 degree flange for the cab wall repair to weld to. As for the indentation, I realized the upper body line on my junk doors is *close* to the same indentation, so I will just use that part of my junk doors to make up the back wall patch, since as you said, nobody is going to see it.

I did unfortunately find a few other rust holes that need to be dealt with, including above the driver's side rear cab mount. Those will be for another day, since I'll likely need the cab to at least be tilted back onto the frame to access them comfortably. I could also shift the cab and work vertical, but that is a bit tougher. I'll have to weigh the pros and cons of both before I tackle that.

 

Good job!

Man, I'm impressed how some people deal with rust, I would just walk away!

[Gary Lewis]

I was able to cut most of the rust out. There are still a few pinholes showing through the floor sheet metal, but I'm thinking it would be wiser to just run some POR 15 rust converter over the area, and then some POR15 top coat (If needed) and then some paint over that. That will seal the pinholes and prevent them from growing.

I'm probably going to use a lap joint over the floor sheet metal for the floor repair, and that will lead into a 90 degree flange for the cab wall repair to weld to. As for the indentation, I realized the upper body line on my junk doors is *close* to the same indentation, so I will just use that part of my junk doors to make up the back wall patch, since as you said, nobody is going to see it.

I did unfortunately find a few other rust holes that need to be dealt with, including above the driver's side rear cab mount. Those will be for another day, since I'll likely need the cab to at least be tilted back onto the frame to access them comfortably. I could also shift the cab and work vertical, but that is a bit tougher. I'll have to weigh the pros and cons of both before I tackle that.

 

I think you are on a good path.

On the POR15, I used it to seal pin holes in Big Blue's floor and it worked very well. Just put some cardboard under the truck to catch any drips, and go under after an hour or so with a brush to smooth things over.

As for top-coating, the only reason to do that is because POR15 isn't UV stable and if it is left in the light it'll turn white. So what I do is to spray my top coat of any paint on while the POR15 is still tacky. The spray paint will adhere and it'll also protect the POR15 from the light.

[grumpin]

I think you are on a good path.

On the POR15, I used it to seal pin holes in Big Blue's floor and it worked very well. Just put some cardboard under the truck to catch any drips, and go under after an hour or so with a brush to smooth things over.

As for top-coating, the only reason to do that is because POR15 isn't UV stable and if it is left in the light it'll turn white. So what I do is to spray my top coat of any paint on while the POR15 is still tacky. The spray paint will adhere and it'll also protect the POR15 from the light.

What did I do to my Bronco today?

Rolled the dadburn drivers window down one too many times! The panel broke in several places where the inner window scraper seal mounts.

Thinking about a new panel but they want around $600 for them.

Might pull it and see if I can bolt or pop rivet it to the panel like I did on my old 86.

Sheez!

Edit: add info.

[salans7]

Good job!

Man, I'm impressed how some people deal with rust, I would just walk away!

Thanks! I walked away from my F150 due to rust and the amount of work it needed (I didn't have a welder then), but essentially regretted that and re-opened a similar can of worms on this truck and this time I refuse to let the work and the rust stop me now that I own a welder and learned how to weld.

I will admit that it can be very time consuming and is not for everyone. I couldn't imagine doing this on a 60's muscle car where every panel is rusted out. I'm probably gonna stay away from rusty vehicles if I ever buy the 80-97 crew cab I want, but my F350 is a Florida truck and STILL has it's fair share of rust so you really have to search for trucks that have been taken care of.

[salans7]

I think you are on a good path.

On the POR15, I used it to seal pin holes in Big Blue's floor and it worked very well. Just put some cardboard under the truck to catch any drips, and go under after an hour or so with a brush to smooth things over.

As for top-coating, the only reason to do that is because POR15 isn't UV stable and if it is left in the light it'll turn white. So what I do is to spray my top coat of any paint on while the POR15 is still tacky. The spray paint will adhere and it'll also protect the POR15 from the light.

My POR15 is behind the seat, and at the bottom of the cab, so there's no need to top coat it. This was my first time applying it and I can see why it comes highly recommended. It's way better than the goopy stuff the previous owner tried to fill the pinholes with, but ended up trapping dirt and moisture with.

[Gary Lewis]

I think you are on a good path.

On the POR15, I used it to seal pin holes in Big Blue's floor and it worked very well. Just put some cardboard under the truck to catch any drips, and go under after an hour or so with a brush to smooth things over.

As for top-coating, the only reason to do that is because POR15 isn't UV stable and if it is left in the light it'll turn white. So what I do is to spray my top coat of any paint on while the POR15 is still tacky. The spray paint will adhere and it'll also protect the POR15 from the light.

My POR15 is behind the seat, and at the bottom of the cab, so there's no need to top coat it. This was my first time applying it and I can see why it comes highly recommended. It's way better than the goopy stuff the previous owner tried to fill the pinholes with, but ended up trapping dirt and moisture with.

Dane - I was able to glue my panel back together and reinforce it with an aluminum strip when I broke that lip when I tried to staple the scraper strip on. Pop rivets are much better than staples for this.

Shaun - POR15 works very well for a lot of things. Messy, but works well. Just make sure you don't put the lid back on the can w/o a layer of waxed paper or cling film. That's because it is almost a given that you'll get some paint in the groove and it WILL glue the lid on. Permanently.

[grumpin]

Dane - I was able to glue my panel back together and reinforce it with an aluminum strip when I broke that lip when I tried to staple the scraper strip on. Pop rivets are much better than staples for this.

As I’ve thought about it, I think the drivers side panel has a crack at the top, I may just cough up the bucks and get a new one. I should, the dash in this Bronco is in excellent shape. The rest of the interior is too for the most part.

It now belongs to my son and when he’s done with college he’ll come home and get it, so I’d like to hand it off in good shape.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Dane - I was able to glue my panel back together and reinforce it with an aluminum strip when I broke that lip when I tried to staple the scraper strip on. Pop rivets are much better than staples for this.

As I’ve thought about it, I think the drivers side panel has a crack at the top, I may just cough up the bucks and get a new one. I should, the dash in this Bronco is in excellent shape. The rest of the interior is too for the most part.

It now belongs to my son and when he’s done with college he’ll come home and get it, so I’d like to hand it off in good shape.

Probably a good plan, Stan.

[FordFETruck]

Probably a good plan, Stan.

I installed new headlight assemblies today that take 9003 bulbs. Wow, these are psycho bright, and they look pretty nice compared to some of the other conversion headlights. Much nicer low beam projection pattern, high beam is a bit extreme I think but everything is lit up from the ground to the tree line from about 500 feet away no matter how they're adjusted, so it is what it is. Another note, I can replace just the bulbs from inside the engine bay now instead of taking the grille half apart to change headlights. I got 9 years out of my last set of Sylvania xtravisions, still work but getting dim and yellow. I adjusted them up as high as I dared on low beam and drove it around a bit, nobody flashed me, so far so good.

[Nickelplate]

I installed new headlight assemblies today that take 9003 bulbs. Wow, these are psycho bright, and they look pretty nice compared to some of the other conversion headlights. Much nicer low beam projection pattern, high beam is a bit extreme I think but everything is lit up from the ground to the tree line from about 500 feet away no matter how they're adjusted, so it is what it is. Another note, I can replace just the bulbs from inside the engine bay now instead of taking the grille half apart to change headlights. I got 9 years out of my last set of Sylvania xtravisions, still work but getting dim and yellow. I adjusted them up as high as I dared on low beam and drove it around a bit, nobody flashed me, so far so good.

Those look sharp! Where'd you get them? I may just need to upgrade my sealed beams.