Gary Lewis Posted November 13, 2023 Author Share Posted November 13, 2023 Gary, Try backflushing the heater core, that may help...sounds like a circulation problem. Also higher temp on EFI will get better MPG. Bill Good thought, Bill. I've not tried that, but should. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted November 15, 2023 Share Posted November 15, 2023 Good thought, Bill. I've not tried that, but should. Thanks! It was COLD last night on the way home from work, but the heater was a tad warmer than usual I'd say. For a "free" experiment with the heater hose insulation, I'd say it was a win. I also checked and I no longer have a coolant leak past the upper radiator hose in cold weather. That permatex super 300 I used on the hose and water neck worked great. 10 years of fighting that annoying little leak and all it took was some sealant on the hose... Which is weird, because I even replaced the water neck, and it still did the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 15, 2023 Author Share Posted November 15, 2023 It was COLD last night on the way home from work, but the heater was a tad warmer than usual I'd say. For a "free" experiment with the heater hose insulation, I'd say it was a win. I also checked and I no longer have a coolant leak past the upper radiator hose in cold weather. That permatex super 300 I used on the hose and water neck worked great. 10 years of fighting that annoying little leak and all it took was some sealant on the hose... Which is weird, because I even replaced the water neck, and it still did the same thing. Cool! No, Warm! Glad it worked. All of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 Cool! No, Warm! Glad it worked. All of it. This insulation trick is really hot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 Cool! No, Warm! Glad it worked. All of it. F150 doing F350 things 😬😬😬 That’s about 3,000 lbs of concrete mix… enough to finish off my foundation piers and fill the brace wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 F150 doing F350 things 😬😬😬 That’s about 3,000 lbs of concrete mix… enough to finish off my foundation piers and fill the brace wall. Slow going with that. I've hooked a corner with a pallet full of roof shingles. (It didn't end well! ) Glad to see you're making progress with your house build Jonathan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 19, 2023 Author Share Posted November 19, 2023 Slow going with that. I've hooked a corner with a pallet full of roof shingles. (It didn't end well! ) Glad to see you're making progress with your house build Jonathan. PROGRESS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted November 19, 2023 Share Posted November 19, 2023 PROGRESS! Tonight I pulled the bed so that I can address the rust at the back of the cab. It's going to be a little tough to address as the rust is at the back edge of the floor, and the floor sheet metal is spot welded to the cab mount brace below. I will have to see if I can cut the top layer out without affecting the brace below, which will be difficult. There's also an indented "character" line right above the rusted area, and it's a bit mangled from the bad patch job the previous owner did back there. If I cut above it, I will need to re-create that indentation, which I don't technically have the tools to do, although I may research to see if I can find a small-scale sheet metal brake or something else to create the indentation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 19, 2023 Author Share Posted November 19, 2023 Tonight I pulled the bed so that I can address the rust at the back of the cab. It's going to be a little tough to address as the rust is at the back edge of the floor, and the floor sheet metal is spot welded to the cab mount brace below. I will have to see if I can cut the top layer out without affecting the brace below, which will be difficult. There's also an indented "character" line right above the rusted area, and it's a bit mangled from the bad patch job the previous owner did back there. If I cut above it, I will need to re-create that indentation, which I don't technically have the tools to do, although I may research to see if I can find a small-scale sheet metal brake or something else to create the indentation. That does sound like a challenge, but I'll bet you can do it. As for the character line, is the damage near the corners of the cab or in the middle? In the middle is very hard to see with the bed on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted November 19, 2023 Share Posted November 19, 2023 That does sound like a challenge, but I'll bet you can do it. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig.png As for the character line, is the damage near the corners of the cab or in the middle? In the middle is very hard to see with the bed on. I was able to cut most of the rust out. There are still a few pinholes showing through the floor sheet metal, but I'm thinking it would be wiser to just run some POR 15 rust converter over the area, and then some POR15 top coat (If needed) and then some paint over that. That will seal the pinholes and prevent them from growing. I'm probably going to use a lap joint over the floor sheet metal for the floor repair, and that will lead into a 90 degree flange for the cab wall repair to weld to. As for the indentation, I realized the upper body line on my junk doors is *close* to the same indentation, so I will just use that part of my junk doors to make up the back wall patch, since as you said, nobody is going to see it. I did unfortunately find a few other rust holes that need to be dealt with, including above the driver's side rear cab mount. Those will be for another day, since I'll likely need the cab to at least be tilted back onto the frame to access them comfortably. I could also shift the cab and work vertical, but that is a bit tougher. I'll have to weigh the pros and cons of both before I tackle that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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