FordFETruck Posted November 11, 2023 Share Posted November 11, 2023 The car shows in the area were canceled because of weather / rain. So truck was put into weekly trash run duty Then made my way out to the garage. I had to replace a vacuum advance can on a dist. for a friend that I have had for way to long, it is a spare cheap aftermarket unit. It is for a Ford 302 motor I then looked into the old carb off my 300 motor that I had pulled the top on a few weeks back when I swapped on the Ebay carb. When I rebuilt the carb years ago I remembered that there was something missing for the main jet / needle / accel pump assy. I was given 2 carbs and I pulled the tops on them to see if I could see what was missing and maybe swap them over. 1 carb inside looked like it been sitting in a lake for years and really nothing could be used but it also looked just like mine? The other carb a feed back one was a little better inside but the assy. looked different, plastic where mine is metal, and there was a wire spring that pushed on the needle maybe as a guide? I did not think it was wise to swap it over as my old carb ran good just rich. The old carb has some fine rust in the bowl so cleaned that out. I also adjusted the needle 1 turn leaner so if I ever use it again I hope it will be leaner. It is back on the shelf as a spare. Dave ---- Replaced all the coolant hoses today, all new clamps as well. I decided to use some PVC pipe insulation on the heater hoses to try and get as much heat into the heater core on cold nights as I can. Refilled with fresh zerex G-05 what I drained out. I tell ya, Gates really dropped the ball on the bypass hose, the last one I put in was way big and I ruined a couple clamps trying to get it tight enough on the water neck. I've also had issues in the cold with the water neck weeping past the radiator hose and clamp no matter how tight the clamp is so I gave the hose and water neck a coating of permatex super 300. I hope it doesn't leak anymore because I've been fighting it for over 10 years now. I used the non perforated German style worm gear style clamps, way better than the cheap perforated clamps that strip out without even trying. They don't cut into the hose either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Replaced all the coolant hoses today, all new clamps as well. Good idea! Long ago, I was carrying horses and while I stopped at a farm to let one horse get down there, the upper hose cracked. Just couple of miles from home, I was able to get back home with a LOT of electrical tape around the defective hose. Since then, I renew Big Brother’s coolant hoses every 7-8 years. Not so expansive and much more safe… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 12, 2023 Author Share Posted November 12, 2023 Replaced all the coolant hoses today, all new clamps as well. Good idea! Long ago, I was carrying horses and while I stopped at a farm to let one horse get down there, the upper hose cracked. Just couple of miles from home, I was able to get back home with a LOT of electrical tape around the defective hose. Since then, I renew Big Brother’s coolant hoses every 7-8 years. Not so expansive and much more safe… Yes, it is a good idea to replace hoses periodically. And coolant as well since its corrosion-fighting abilities go bad over time. As for the clamps, I do like those w/o slots that damage the hose. I'm using EFI-style clamps on smaller hoses, like the 3/8" ID hose for the power steering return as they don't have the slots either. But they don't go big enough for heater hoses, much less radiator hoses. But I'd not thought of coving the heater hoses with pipe insulation. I guess I wouldn't have thought that the water would lose much heat as it flows through them, but maybe in really cold weather? Or, maybe you need a higher-temp thermostat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Yes, it is a good idea to replace hoses periodically. And coolant as well since its corrosion-fighting abilities go bad over time. As for the clamps, I do like those w/o slots that damage the hose. I'm using EFI-style clamps on smaller hoses, like the 3/8" ID hose for the power steering return as they don't have the slots either. But they don't go big enough for heater hoses, much less radiator hoses. But I'd not thought of coving the heater hoses with pipe insulation. I guess I wouldn't have thought that the water would lose much heat as it flows through them, but maybe in really cold weather? Or, maybe you need a higher-temp thermostat? Gary, look for Norma brand hose clamps on that Bel Metric site Bill recommended to you. They have embossed teeth and rolled edges so they can't slice the hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 12, 2023 Author Share Posted November 12, 2023 Gary, look for Norma brand hose clamps on that Bel Metric site Bill recommended to you. They have embossed teeth and rolled edges so they can't slice the hose. Thanks, Jim. I'll do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 Yes, it is a good idea to replace hoses periodically. And coolant as well since its corrosion-fighting abilities go bad over time. As for the clamps, I do like those w/o slots that damage the hose. I'm using EFI-style clamps on smaller hoses, like the 3/8" ID hose for the power steering return as they don't have the slots either. But they don't go big enough for heater hoses, much less radiator hoses. But I'd not thought of coving the heater hoses with pipe insulation. I guess I wouldn't have thought that the water would lose much heat as it flows through them, but maybe in really cold weather? Or, maybe you need a higher-temp thermostat? Yeah, I use the EFI hose clamps on everything I can for smaller hoses. The heater definitely seems hotter when I drove it today, it's got a Motorcraft 192 degree thermostat in it. The hose clamps I used were off Amazon, steelsoft brand. The quality is pretty good for that they cost and I found them for small fuel line and transmission cooler hose sizes as well and ordered some to try out. Same design as Norma brand clamps. No leak over night from the water neck past the clamp either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 13, 2023 Author Share Posted November 13, 2023 Yeah, I use the EFI hose clamps on everything I can for smaller hoses. The heater definitely seems hotter when I drove it today, it's got a Motorcraft 192 degree thermostat in it. The hose clamps I used were off Amazon, steelsoft brand. The quality is pretty good for that they cost and I found them for small fuel line and transmission cooler hose sizes as well and ordered some to try out. Same design as Norma brand clamps. No leak over night from the water neck past the clamp either. I'm running a 180 degree stat and the heater isn't very hot. Been thinking I need to change to a 190. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 I'm running a 180 degree stat and the heater isn't very hot. Been thinking I need to change to a 190. The engines in both of my 64 galaxie's have 180 thermostats and both of the heaters just roast my right out of the car compared to the truck, which doesn't make much sense considering the cab of the truck is way smaller than the cars. Heater cores are all about the same size as well. Years ago I ran a 180 thermostat before the 192 and didn't notice much difference in the heater output but the engine definitely runs better in the cold and the oil stays cleaner a lot longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 13, 2023 Author Share Posted November 13, 2023 The engines in both of my 64 galaxie's have 180 thermostats and both of the heaters just roast my right out of the car compared to the truck, which doesn't make much sense considering the cab of the truck is way smaller than the cars. Heater cores are all about the same size as well. Years ago I ran a 180 thermostat before the 192 and didn't notice much difference in the heater output but the engine definitely runs better in the cold and the oil stays cleaner a lot longer. I think Scotty recommended the 180 for the engine he built, and with EFI it shouldn't run any better with a higher temp stat. But I can certainly see that unless you are driving long trips the warmer stat would get the water out of the oil a lot easier/quicker. And surely it would be warmer in the winter. We had it out last week and it was 50 degrees out with a north wind. Had to run the temp lever up fairly high to get the cab warm, and even with it all the way up the air wasn't HOT. But then the water temp stayed right on 180 given the 4-row aluminum radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 I think Scotty recommended the 180 for the engine he built, and with EFI it shouldn't run any better with a higher temp stat. But I can certainly see that unless you are driving long trips the warmer stat would get the water out of the oil a lot easier/quicker. And surely it would be warmer in the winter. We had it out last week and it was 50 degrees out with a north wind. Had to run the temp lever up fairly high to get the cab warm, and even with it all the way up the air wasn't HOT. But then the water temp stayed right on 180 given the 4-row aluminum radiator. Gary, Try backflushing the heater core, that may help...sounds like a circulation problem. Also higher temp on EFI will get better MPG. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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