WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[BigBrother-84]

And that is exactly the way things seem to go for me.....LOL! I have, on occasion, actively searched months for a part, finally find it, and end up paying way more than I want to out of desperation. Right after acquisition of said part, I find multiple in better condition and way cheaper.....ARGHHHH!!!

Sort of Karma.

I am the kind of guy who keeps "old things" for very very long time. Often for years and years. Just "in case", we never know...

Systematically, I need them just AFTER throwing them to garbage. That's not an exception, that's a rule.

[Gsmblue]

To start a new thread (topic in Nabble-speak) click on the New Topic button that is highlighted in yellow.

And, fyi, if you want to give someone a link to a post, you have to get the permalink instead of the URL in the browser's window. Click the Permalink button, circled in red, and copy what pops up.

As for your truck's timing, what are you back to? And, have you seen your sub-forum to document your Gas Mileage Recipe? (Link done via Permalink.)

Soft topper installed!

[Gary Lewis]

Soft topper installed!

Looks good! And now you can keep that puppy cool.

[ratdude747]

Today... I proved the adage of "grinders and paint make me the welder I ain't." Time for some redneck body work!

Issue: there is a quarter sized rotten in my driver's side cab corner. Did not get "before" pictures; the hole was after hammering out loose rust and paper thin metal. The internal damage is bad enough that to fix it the "right" way (patch panel), I'll be pulling the bed to get around the back of the cab; likewise, my Harbor Fright 90A Flux Core welder isn't really what I'd want to use for "good" body work (MIG, TIG, or heck even a buzz box with some 6013 rods would be a better option). However, this isn't what I'd call a show truck (even if it will likely go to at least one show in some capacity ), and I had some supplies (and the time and motivation) today, so I figured I'd do something to try to keep things intact for the time being.

My "solution": Carefully weld the portion that's a narrow strip of rot, and patch the rest with some metal cut from the mangled front valence (last year's bambi incident):

I also drilled a couple drain holes in the back of the cab corner to give the accumulated water somewhere to go. Not sure where it's coming from; it rained while I was welding the narrow section and while the rest of the area was dry, there was a lot of dampness in the rot zone (I tried to remove as much of the blob of body sealer as I could; it and all the loose rust stuck to it was wicking water like a sponge!). Cracked sealer joints in the roof/gutter? Part of the lighting harness back there (the wire for the dimmer dome light control) corroded and had to be repaired last year... and not long after I found the bubbling paint of doom.

After a hasty paint and primer job:

Yeah, it's an ugly improper repair. But at least I did something to try to address the issue?

---

I also greased all my zerks while I was at it... and discovered that someone (me?) installed the rear U-joint backwards and as result it can't be greased (diff yoke interferes with the spider's zerk fitting). That said, unlike the younger "I want to service everything" version of me, I'm thinking this is a good excuse to (soonish) replace the joints with some solid Dana/Spicer joints. Certainly better than whatever brand hollow joints are on there now (generic parts store brand from the looks of it).

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Today... I proved the adage of "grinders and paint make me the welder I ain't." Time for some redneck body work!

Issue: there is a quarter sized rotten in my driver's side cab corner. Did not get "before" pictures; the hole was after hammering out loose rust and paper thin metal. The internal damage is bad enough that to fix it the "right" way (patch panel), I'll be pulling the bed to get around the back of the cab; likewise, my Harbor Fright 90A Flux Core welder isn't really what I'd want to use for "good" body work (MIG, TIG, or heck even a buzz box with some 6013 rods would be a better option). However, this isn't what I'd call a show truck (even if it will likely go to at least one show in some capacity ), and I had some supplies (and the time and motivation) today, so I figured I'd do something to try to keep things intact for the time being.

My "solution": Carefully weld the portion that's a narrow strip of rot, and patch the rest with some metal cut from the mangled front valence (last year's bambi incident):

I also drilled a couple drain holes in the back of the cab corner to give the accumulated water somewhere to go. Not sure where it's coming from; it rained while I was welding the narrow section and while the rest of the area was dry, there was a lot of dampness in the rot zone (I tried to remove as much of the blob of body sealer as I could; it and all the loose rust stuck to it was wicking water like a sponge!). Cracked sealer joints in the roof/gutter? Part of the lighting harness back there (the wire for the dimmer dome light control) corroded and had to be repaired last year... and not long after I found the bubbling paint of doom.

After a hasty paint and primer job:

Yeah, it's an ugly improper repair. But at least I did something to try to address the issue?

---

I also greased all my zerks while I was at it... and discovered that someone (me?) installed the rear U-joint backwards and as result it can't be greased (diff yoke interferes with the spider's zerk fitting). That said, unlike the younger "I want to service everything" version of me, I'm thinking this is a good excuse to (soonish) replace the joints with some solid Dana/Spicer joints. Certainly better than whatever brand hollow joints are on there now (generic parts store brand from the looks of it).

Did you ever consider just gluing a patch in?

Panel bonding adhesives are strong enough that you can tear the surrounding sheet metal before they'll let go and a glued joint leaves no room for water or even dampness to get between the sheet metal.

When I did my cab corner I had the bed off so access wasn't an issue.

In retrospect I probably would have done a better and more lasting job if I had used one of those epoxies.

Do you really think a solid U-joint is going to offer anything to a street driven pickup?

I know that my engine has quite a bit of torque and I beat on my driveline but I've never snapped a universal, even hauling loads of stone or giant travel trailers.

For sure I've had lubrication failures, and before I knew better I probably overtightened caps leading to premature failure.

I still think I'd rather lube them up while I'm waiting for the oil to drain than consider them 'lifetime limited' here in the salty northeast.

[ratdude747]

Did you ever consider just gluing a patch in?

Panel bonding adhesives are strong enough that you can tear the surrounding sheet metal before they'll let go and a glued joint leaves no room for water or even dampness to get between the sheet metal.

When I did my cab corner I had the bed off so access wasn't an issue.

In retrospect I probably would have done a better and more lasting job if I had used one of those epoxies.

Do you really think a solid U-joint is going to offer anything to a street driven pickup?

I know that my engine has quite a bit of torque and I beat on my driveline but I've never snapped a universal, even hauling loads of stone or giant travel trailers.

For sure I've had lubrication failures, and before I knew better I probably overtightened caps leading to premature failure.

I still think I'd rather lube them up while I'm waiting for the oil to drain than consider them 'lifetime limited' here in the salty northeast.

Everywhere I've read, I've seen weld or go home. And that anything touched by rust on either side of the panel has to be chopped out or else it'll start rotting again (as rust is porous and and retains moisture).

I used to be a big fan of serviceable joints... but I've also heard that greasable joints (especially the kind with a zerk in the center) are trouble. I put them on my Ranger; I don't remember if these joints were on the truck or if I replaced them (I've had the driveshaft out before for joint inspection, I think I found no issues and reinstalled). On my prior ranger, I ran Moog SuperStrenght joints with the in-cap fittings.. they were a pain to grease so when it was wrecked and I got another ranger, I opted for Duralast ones since being a ranger, it doesn't see a lot of torque... although it is a 4.0 OHV ranger with a 3.08 8.8" rear end, so perhaps that was a bad call. Likewise, my F150 also has a 3.08 8.8" rear end (300 with an AOD; other than being wider and 32 spline, it's the exact same diff/axle), so while it isn't a powerhouse, technically the driveshaft does see some torque. Based on the cap marks, I'm fairly certain the F150's joints are also Duralast (or some other generic parts store brand).

Technically, If I didn't think I'd ruin the C-clips during removal, I could remove and reinstall the rear joint so the zerk faces forward...

[ArdWrknTrk]

Everywhere I've read, I've seen weld or go home. And that anything touched by rust on either side of the panel has to be chopped out or else it'll start rotting again (as rust is porous and and retains moisture).

I used to be a big fan of serviceable joints... but I've also heard that greasable joints (especially the kind with a zerk in the center) are trouble. I put them on my Ranger; I don't remember if these joints were on the truck or if I replaced them (I've had the driveshaft out before for joint inspection, I think I found no issues and reinstalled). On my prior ranger, I ran Moog SuperStrenght joints with the in-cap fittings.. they were a pain to grease so when it was wrecked and I got another ranger, I opted for Duralast ones since being a ranger, it doesn't see a lot of torque... although it is a 4.0 OHV ranger with a 3.08 8.8" rear end, so perhaps that was a bad call. Likewise, my F150 also has a 3.08 8.8" rear end (300 with an AOD; other than being wider and 32 spline, it's the exact same diff/axle), so while it isn't a powerhouse, technically the driveshaft does see some torque. Based on the cap marks, I'm fairly certain the F150's joints are also Duralast (or some other generic parts store brand).

Technically, If I didn't think I'd ruin the C-clips during removal, I could remove and reinstall the rear joint so the zerk faces forward...

Yep, rust has got to go. You can burn the rust off with acid. Pitting will be filled completely, and the 'tooth' is not a downside.

But patch panels should always be cut back to solid metal whether you're welding or bonding.

Cab corners aren't weight bearing or structural.

Epoxy will absolutely seal porous materials (even foam!)

Being at the tow yard I've seen plenty of folded and torn sheet metal that was once panel bonded.

I haven't seen any those patches let loose or any rust start at the root of them.

Sure, there are idiots who glue a 'slip on' rocker over a bunch of daylighted rust and either flip it or drive it.

You can't fix stupid.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Everywhere I've read, I've seen weld or go home. And that anything touched by rust on either side of the panel has to be chopped out or else it'll start rotting again (as rust is porous and and retains moisture).

I used to be a big fan of serviceable joints... but I've also heard that greasable joints (especially the kind with a zerk in the center) are trouble. I put them on my Ranger; I don't remember if these joints were on the truck or if I replaced them (I've had the driveshaft out before for joint inspection, I think I found no issues and reinstalled). On my prior ranger, I ran Moog SuperStrenght joints with the in-cap fittings.. they were a pain to grease so when it was wrecked and I got another ranger, I opted for Duralast ones since being a ranger, it doesn't see a lot of torque... although it is a 4.0 OHV ranger with a 3.08 8.8" rear end, so perhaps that was a bad call. Likewise, my F150 also has a 3.08 8.8" rear end (300 with an AOD; other than being wider and 32 spline, it's the exact same diff/axle), so while it isn't a powerhouse, technically the driveshaft does see some torque. Based on the cap marks, I'm fairly certain the F150's joints are also Duralast (or some other generic parts store brand).

Technically, If I didn't think I'd ruin the C-clips during removal, I could remove and reinstall the rear joint so the zerk faces forward...

I think the new adhesives are more than strong enough to use rather than welding. So if I were going to do body work I'd plan to glue panels in rather than weld. (But I'm not going to do body work.)

On the u-joints, if I remember correctly I went with mostly joints that can be greased when I put BB back together. That's because I expect to be off the road many times with it and have been advised I should periodically flush the joints with new grease because of that. But on the front axle I went with solid joints as they are such a pain to get to and can be subject to intermittent load if the front bounces while you are on the throttle climbing, and the solid ones are supposed to be stronger. And so far I've had no problems with the ones that can be greased.

And that reminds me, I should grease them!

Edit: I also installed a u-joint backwards. It was in the front driveshaft IIRC, and the zerk fitting hit something when in 4wd causing a noise. Normally I wouldn't pull a u-joint and put it back in, but since it was brand new and no damage had been caused I did pull it and turn it around.

[Nothing Special]

I think the new adhesives are more than strong enough to use rather than welding. So if I were going to do body work I'd plan to glue panels in rather than weld. (But I'm not going to do body work.)

On the u-joints, if I remember correctly I went with mostly joints that can be greased when I put BB back together. That's because I expect to be off the road many times with it and have been advised I should periodically flush the joints with new grease because of that. But on the front axle I went with solid joints as they are such a pain to get to and can be subject to intermittent load if the front bounces while you are on the throttle climbing, and the solid ones are supposed to be stronger. And so far I've had no problems with the ones that can be greased.

And that reminds me, I should grease them!

Edit: I also installed a u-joint backwards. It was in the front driveshaft IIRC, and the zerk fitting hit something when in 4wd causing a noise. Normally I wouldn't pull a u-joint and put it back in, but since it was brand new and no damage had been caused I did pull it and turn it around.

On the U-joints all I know is what "they" say (who are "they" and what do "they" know?). But I believe the main downside to greaseable U-joints is the strength of the cross-drilled cross (not a factor in U-joints with a grease fitting at each cap and a solid cross). And like Jim, I've never broken one so I'm not too worried about that. And while I do drive with a pretty light foot, trying to crawl most obstacles, I do have a 4:1 1st gear and 4.3:1 transfer case, so my driveshafts do see TORQUE when I do have to get on it.

I've also heard that there can be a smaller downside to greaseables when you over-grease them and push grease out of the seals. That (I've heard) can open up a leak path and make it more likely that contamination can get in.

Separate from all of that, I've heard that at least some Spicer joints are made with larger diameter trunnions and more smaller diameter needles. That's supposedly one thing that gives them a significant strength advantage over other brands.

[ratdude747]

On the U-joints all I know is what "they" say (who are "they" and what do "they" know?). But I believe the main downside to greaseable U-joints is the strength of the cross-drilled cross (not a factor in U-joints with a grease fitting at each cap and a solid cross). And like Jim, I've never broken one so I'm not too worried about that. And while I do drive with a pretty light foot, trying to crawl most obstacles, I do have a 4:1 1st gear and 4.3:1 transfer case, so my driveshafts do see TORQUE when I do have to get on it.

I've also heard that there can be a smaller downside to greaseables when you over-grease them and push grease out of the seals. That (I've heard) can open up a leak path and make it more likely that contamination can get in.

Separate from all of that, I've heard that at least some Spicer joints are made with larger diameter trunnions and more smaller diameter needles. That's supposedly one thing that gives them a significant strength advantage over other brands.

From what I've seen, the solid Spicers look very similar to OE joints (or what came on both of my rangers at least)... which makes me wonder if Dana/Spicer was Ford's OE.

Part of me says go ahead and redo the joint so it's facing the right way. Part of me says as relatively cheap as they are, if I'm going to pull it, might as well replace it. As greasable joints have to be maintained to last... they're only better if one actually greases them routinely.