Gary Lewis Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Got this installed today, run out of time gonna do the heat gauge another day, got the power outlet for my usb tuner (with ignition on only) choke will go next to power outlet. Looks good. But you said ""gonna do the heat gauge another day". Is the heat gauge the one dangling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HrdAngln Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Looks good. But you said ""gonna do the heat gauge another day". Is the heat gauge the one dangling? Been a while since I posted. In the last month: - new ball joints - snow tires - built new battery cables and battery to block ground. - working Diagnosing warm start issue - researching dual battery separator - fabbed support bracket for passenger side secondary battery tray - fabbed backed to support rotated washer fluid/coolant bottle to allow mounting of secondary battery tray. - new fuel caps (rubber seals were cracking up and falling apart) - New rear shocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Looks good. But you said ""gonna do the heat gauge another day". Is the heat gauge the one dangling? Gary, The "dangling one" is a working gauge from the other set, it is ziptied in place. The reason for this, there is not enough room where it goes through the firewall, have to remove it and the choke cable to have room to pass the sensor bulb thru. Had to rewire the connectors, the old dark thirty slipped up on me. Have a turn signal issue to deal with today, Ain't old trucks fun to deal with. Bil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Been a while since I posted. In the last month: - new ball joints - snow tires - built new battery cables and battery to block ground. - working Diagnosing warm start issue - researching dual battery separator - fabbed support bracket for passenger side secondary battery tray - fabbed backed to support rotated washer fluid/coolant bottle to allow mounting of secondary battery tray. - new fuel caps (rubber seals were cracking up and falling apart) - New rear shocks Bill - That makes sense. I love the mechanical gauges for their simplicity and the fact they normally have 270 degree sweeps. But I hate them for the bulb that is so hard to get through the firewall. So I fully understand. Good luck! HrdAngln - You have been BUSY! On the dual battery separator, I really like the Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Battery Isolator. It is rated for 200 amps continuous and 750 amps inrush, so will handle everything my 3G will throw and will let the aux battery help the main battery start the engine if needed. If I remember the specs correctly, it will parallel the batteries 2 minutes after one of the batteries reaches 13.2 volts, so you know the alternator is working and that battery has gotten some charge. And it will keep them paralleled until the batteries drop to 12.7 volts, so you won't drain both batteries if there is a load on one of them. And there's a function where you can push a momentary button and force the batteries into parallel for one minute, which allows the aux battery to help the main battery start the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 .... On the dual battery separator, I really like the Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Battery Isolator. It is rated for 200 amps continuous and 750 amps inrush, so will handle everything my 3G will throw and will let the aux battery help the main battery start the engine if needed.... Gary's option looks good. But if you're like me and tend to shy away from anything with "smart" in the name, a simple dumb option that works well is to use a relay something like this with an off-on-off double throw switch. Hook the center terminal of the switch to the relay, hook one of the side terminals of the switch to the aux battery and hook the other side terminal to the main battery through an oil pressure switch. Flip the switch to one side it will link the batteries together so you can jump it from the aux battery. Put it in the middle and the batteries are separated. Put it on the other side (where I leave it all the time) and the batteries are separated whenever the engine isn't making oil pressure (i.e. when it's not running) but they are in parallel whenever there is oil pressure. You can make it a little more user-friendly by using a DPDT switch and using the other poles to switch a pair of indicator lights, one (possibly red) when it's in the "jump" position and one when it's in the main position with the engine running. I didn't build my system, I bought it from Wrangler NW Power Products. But their web site doesn't give a lot of confidence that they are still in business, and their latest catalog (from 2011) only has the relay/switch/indicator light included with one of their dual battery tray kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 .... On the dual battery separator, I really like the Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Battery Isolator. It is rated for 200 amps continuous and 750 amps inrush, so will handle everything my 3G will throw and will let the aux battery help the main battery start the engine if needed.... Gary's option looks good. But if you're like me and tend to shy away from anything with "smart" in the name, a simple dumb option that works well is to use a relay something like this with an off-on-off double throw switch. Hook the center terminal of the switch to the relay, hook one of the side terminals of the switch to the aux battery and hook the other side terminal to the main battery through an oil pressure switch. Flip the switch to one side it will link the batteries together so you can jump it from the aux battery. Put it in the middle and the batteries are separated. Put it on the other side (where I leave it all the time) and the batteries are separated whenever the engine isn't making oil pressure (i.e. when it's not running) but they are in parallel whenever there is oil pressure. You can make it a little more user-friendly by using a DPDT switch and using the other poles to switch a pair of indicator lights, one (possibly red) when it's in the "jump" position and one when it's in the main position with the engine running. I didn't build my system, I bought it from Wrangler NW Power Products. But their web site doesn't give a lot of confidence that they are still in business, and their latest catalog (from 2011) only has the relay/switch/indicator light included with one of their dual battery tray kits. Bob - I like that system. But I think it can be simplified slightly. The spec's on that relay say it'll pull in with 6 volts on the coil. The field wire on our alternators puts out about 7 volts, although it is pulsing rather than steady state direct current. But I think you could use that to pull the relay in and not have the oil pressure switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 Sounds like the community is functioning well - sharing. Yes it is I painted the spare tire brackets and if all goes well tomorrow I hope to get it all mounted before the show Saturday. I will get pictures soon. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 Sounds like the community is functioning well - sharing. Yes it is I painted the spare tire brackets and if all goes well tomorrow I hope to get it all mounted before the show Saturday. I will get pictures soon. Dave ---- Little update on the spare tire setup. Last weekend before a show I tried to install it and ran into issue. The nub you put the lug wrench in to help lift it hit the hitch side frame mounting plate. Because I was pushed for time I did not get it installed or any pictures yet. Well today posting in that other forum on a post about hitches and seeing a picture of one installed I think I see why mine does not fit. My frame plates are mounted to the inside with the frame bolt part facing out. They should be on the outside with the bolt part facing in. This would put the plates farther out and I am sure the bracket nub would clear them. So this is something I will need to look into swapping before the spare tire can be mounted under the truck as it should. I am also going to see if I cant tuck it farther in as it also sticks out pretty far for my liking. Project is never done! Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share Posted November 21, 2021 Little update on the spare tire setup. Last weekend before a show I tried to install it and ran into issue. The nub you put the lug wrench in to help lift it hit the hitch side frame mounting plate. Because I was pushed for time I did not get it installed or any pictures yet. Well today posting in that other forum on a post about hitches and seeing a picture of one installed I think I see why mine does not fit. My frame plates are mounted to the inside with the frame bolt part facing out. They should be on the outside with the bolt part facing in. This would put the plates farther out and I am sure the bracket nub would clear them. So this is something I will need to look into swapping before the spare tire can be mounted under the truck as it should. I am also going to see if I cant tuck it farther in as it also sticks out pretty far for my liking. Project is never done! Dave ---- Interesting. Does the tubing slide in/out where the ovals are to adjust for width? If so and you slide it out farther won't that put the hitch farther to the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 22, 2021 Share Posted November 22, 2021 Interesting. Does the tubing slide in/out where the ovals are to adjust for width? If so and you slide it out farther won't that put the hitch farther to the rear? https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n108176/Daves_Hitch.jpg Yes it does slide out for different width frames. If you look just to the inside of your marks there is 1 one bolt installed, hole where the other would be. You loose them and slide them out. As for it moving it out away from the truck if it does it should not be by much if any. After looking at it the tubes move in a arc and cant see it moving in or out. Just for you if I can remember I will take measurements LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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