Bruno2 Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Brandon - I really like that meter. You keep leaving things here, so why haven't you left it? On the batteries, I've had good luck with Interstates. Not used a lot, but some. Really surprised I haven't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Really surprised I haven't. I like interstate Batt. and never had any issues with them. Even in my Toyota L/C I raced off road and rolled a few times. When I had a shop with dad we sold them. As for warranty it was no questions asked replace it with a prorate on how old it was, date code was stamped on the side. Got to say the last few batt. I have picked up have been Auto Zone ones as they were close and open. The interstates you had to get thru a garage and most are closed after 5pm and weekends. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 I like interstate Batt. and never had any issues with them. Even in my Toyota L/C I raced off road and rolled a few times. When I had a shop with dad we sold them. As for warranty it was no questions asked replace it with a prorate on how old it was, date code was stamped on the side. Got to say the last few batt. I have picked up have been Auto Zone ones as they were close and open. The interstates you had to get thru a garage and most are closed after 5pm and weekends. Dave ---- Well hit the garage at 5am, had someplace to be around 6am so why not pull the carb for rebuild? Well after pulling the carb apart I don't know if a rebuild will work,I hope so as I don't have the $$ for a new/re-built one. Why I say this is someone was into this carb before. I found 2 sheet metal screws holding the top 1/3 of the carb onto the main body. I think I can find the right screws and they will tighten up ...... I hope. I did find the accel pump had cracks and was hard and not move so it had to be changed. Also found dry mud, not rust, MUD in the bowl hope that will come out. I have the main body & bottom soaking in a gal. of carb / parts cleaner so when done with my honey do list, part of that 6am Lowes hardware store run, I can get back on it. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 Well hit the garage at 5am, had someplace to be around 6am so why not pull the carb for rebuild? Well after pulling the carb apart I don't know if a rebuild will work,I hope so as I don't have the $$ for a new/re-built one. Why I say this is someone was into this carb before. I found 2 sheet metal screws holding the top 1/3 of the carb onto the main body. I think I can find the right screws and they will tighten up ...... I hope. I did find the accel pump had cracks and was hard and not move so it had to be changed. Also found dry mud, not rust, MUD in the bowl hope that will come out. I have the main body & bottom soaking in a gal. of carb / parts cleaner so when done with my honey do list, part of that 6am Lowes hardware store run, I can get back on it. Dave ---- Don't leave it in the cleaner too long. I don't know about those carbs, but many carbs have a plating that can get stripped if left in too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Well hit the garage at 5am, had someplace to be around 6am so why not pull the carb for rebuild? Well after pulling the carb apart I don't know if a rebuild will work,I hope so as I don't have the $$ for a new/re-built one. Why I say this is someone was into this carb before. I found 2 sheet metal screws holding the top 1/3 of the carb onto the main body. I think I can find the right screws and they will tighten up ...... I hope. I did find the accel pump had cracks and was hard and not move so it had to be changed. Also found dry mud, not rust, MUD in the bowl hope that will come out. I have the main body & bottom soaking in a gal. of carb / parts cleaner so when done with my honey do list, part of that 6am Lowes hardware store run, I can get back on it. Dave ---- Which carb is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 Which carb is it? Gotta be the YFA since it is the 300 six. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Gotta be the YFA since it is the 300 six. Yes YFA nothing fancy on this motor. I like KISS! I don't think it has any kind of plating. I know some of the older v4 carbs have a gold type plating when new. Besides this carb was butchered! I found 2 sheet metal screws holding the top on. Also found pipe sealer on a few of the right screws for the top cover. Found 1 other type screw for 1 of 3 on the choke housing. There is also a petcock, closed, in place of the hot air tube fitting for the choke. Don't know what I will do with it yet as I have EFI exh manifolds. Inside I found the needle for the float not installed right. It has the needle then a spring and metal pin. I found needle, pin and spring and some junk in it. A washer under the bowl vent seal that should not have been there, think to stop fuel from coming out because of the float needle. Also did not find any step washer on top of the accel pump assy. The kit said to replace it with a flat one from the kit but I could not find it .......... it is white and the box is white, till I had everything back together. I have to hit the hardware store of the right screws for the top & choke and will install the carb. Also have the fuel pump I want to change along with oil & temp senders before I try and run the motor again. Still plugging away at it. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Gotta be the YFA since it is the 300 six. Yes YFA nothing fancy on this motor. I like KISS! I don't think it has any kind of plating. I know some of the older v4 carbs have a gold type plating when new. Besides this carb was butchered! I found 2 sheet metal screws holding the top on. Also found pipe sealer on a few of the right screws for the top cover. Found 1 other type screw for 1 of 3 on the choke housing. There is also a petcock, closed, in place of the hot air tube fitting for the choke. Don't know what I will do with it yet as I have EFI exh manifolds. Inside I found the needle for the float not installed right. It has the needle then a spring and metal pin. I found needle, pin and spring and some junk in it. A washer under the bowl vent seal that should not have been there, think to stop fuel from coming out because of the float needle. Also did not find any step washer on top of the accel pump assy. The kit said to replace it with a flat one from the kit but I could not find it .......... it is white and the box is white, till I had everything back together. I have to hit the hardware store of the right screws for the top & choke and will install the carb. Also have the fuel pump I want to change along with oil & temp senders before I try and run the motor again. Still plugging away at it. Dave ---- Sounds like the same guy rebuilt your carb and Huck's engine. Anyway, pretty soon you'll have it running! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARIAT 85 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Jim - Cool! I want pics as that may be the way I go. As for what I did with, not to, my truck today - drove it to 16 places in "my little town", to borrow a Paul Simon phrase. I was taking the flier for the get-together around, and I got them posted in 14 of those places. But it took me almost two hours as I got into several conversations about trucks. In fact, I think I recruited someone for this forum today. DeWayne, from Skiatook Auto Parts, if you are reading this you found the right place. However, going to 16 different places meant a lot of low-speed turns, and I noticed a repeated clunk as I was turning. Seemed like it was pretty much straight ahead of the driver, and happened as I was changing directions with the steering. Guess I need to check things out. Maybe the frame at the steering box, or a rivet, or.... Wish I knew where there was a TSB on that. What did I do to my truck today? I added some extra "jewelry" to Lucille, to make her look a bit more upscale - more "Lariat" like, if you will. I always thought Ford should have done *something* to the front of these trucks to distinguish a better model. For example, the "Lariat" trim levels added wheel lip moldings and trim on the side, and the back got a nice aluminum tailgate finish panel. However, the front doesn't look any different from the lesser model trucks, except for the bumper guards and rub strips. My answer? Hood letters: Note that these letters are in the same exact font as the 1980-1981 F-Series/Bronco hood letters. Except these are chrome plastic (like the rest of the 1982-1986 nameplates) and are slightly smaller. This worked out really well for proportions since L-A-R-I-A-T has more letters than F-O-R-D. These letters are from a Ford Freestar Limited. I think it is a good balance with the 1985 upper trim molding: Brushed aluminum instrument cluster overlay: I think it is a good balance with the aluminum tailgate finish panel (also note the "LARIAT" nameplate from a 1982/1985-1986 Ford Bronco): And to go along with the tailgate nameplate, I added a "LARIAT" emblem to the dashboard. I always found it odd that the XLT Lariat models had an "XLT" emblem on the top of the radio bezel, but "Lariat" is nowhere to be found. This emblem was found on 1982 F150 Lariat models and was originally used as a tailgate insert: Other than the instrument cluster overlay, everything else is OEM Ford parts! What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 What did I do to my truck today? I added some extra "jewelry" to Lucille, to make her look a bit more upscale - more "Lariat" like, if you will. I always thought Ford should have done *something* to the front of these trucks to distinguish a better model. For example, the "Lariat" trim levels added wheel lip moldings and trim on the side, and the back got a nice aluminum tailgate finish panel. However, the front doesn't look any different from the lesser model trucks, except for the bumper guards and rub strips. My answer? Hood letters: Note that these letters are in the same exact font as the 1980-1981 F-Series/Bronco hood letters. Except these are chrome plastic (like the rest of the 1982-1986 nameplates) and are slightly smaller. This worked out really well for proportions since L-A-R-I-A-T has more letters than F-O-R-D. These letters are from a Ford Freestar Limited. I think it is a good balance with the 1985 upper trim molding: Brushed aluminum instrument cluster overlay: I think it is a good balance with the aluminum tailgate finish panel (also note the "LARIAT" nameplate from a 1982/1985-1986 Ford Bronco): And to go along with the tailgate nameplate, I added a "LARIAT" emblem to the dashboard. I always found it odd that the XLT Lariat models had an "XLT" emblem on the top of the radio bezel, but "Lariat" is nowhere to be found. This emblem was found on 1982 F150 Lariat models and was originally used as a tailgate insert: Other than the instrument cluster overlay, everything else is OEM Ford parts! What do you think? Looks nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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