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Ok, now I need some carb tuning advice (Holley 4160 600CFM)


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That might be true. Preston Carburetion was a Holley Warranty Center, and we also sold Rochester, Stromberg, Carter and Weber carbs. There is one book I would love to find a copy of, it was a book put out by Weber, titled "Technical Introduction to the Master Catalog" It explained in great detail how each part of the metering circuits, both idle and main along with transition circuits functioned. I haven't been able to find one anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-catalog-introduction-Edoardo-Weber/dp/B0007JV562

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That might be true. Preston Carburetion was a Holley Warranty Center, and we also sold Rochester, Stromberg, Carter and Weber carbs. There is one book I would love to find a copy of, it was a book put out by Weber, titled "Technical Introduction to the Master Catalog" It explained in great detail how each part of the metering circuits, both idle and main along with transition circuits functioned. I haven't been able to find one anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-catalog-introduction-Edoardo-Weber/dp/B0007JV562

Nice! maybe Santa will bring me one, I think we paid less than $10 for it in the early 70s.

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If the throttle plates have shifted, the easiest way to check everything on a Holley is to actually remove the throttle body. With the throttle body removed, hold it up to the light so you can see if the throttle plates look even in the holes.

Thanks for all the help. Now my be the opportune time for me to switch to the Summit 500CFM carb I've been wanting...lol.

Have you seen new Holley carbs have issues like this before? This one is only about a year old, with very few miles on it...maybe 3000-4000 miles, I'm not 100% sure. Maybe the throttle body is warped from it being bolted to that plastic spacer that warped...or maybe I warped it further when I torqued it down on that warped spacer...lol. Good grief.

When I had it off, I did check the bottom with a straight edge and it looked nice and flat.

 

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If the throttle plates have shifted, the easiest way to check everything on a Holley is to actually remove the throttle body. With the throttle body removed, hold it up to the light so you can see if the throttle plates look even in the holes.

Thanks for all the help. Now my be the opportune time for me to switch to the Summit 500CFM carb I've been wanting...lol.

Have you seen new Holley carbs have issues like this before? This one is only about a year old, with very few miles on it...maybe 3000-4000 miles, I'm not 100% sure. Maybe the throttle body is warped from it being bolted to that plastic spacer that warped...or maybe I warped it further when I torqued it down on that warped spacer...lol. Good grief.

When I had it off, I did check the bottom with a straight edge and it looked nice and flat.

The Summit Racing carburetor you are considering is a much better design and the 500 cfm size is a better match for your 5.0 than the Holley 600 cfm carburetor you currently have.

I wouldn't waste any more time on the Holley.

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The Summit Racing carburetor you are considering is a much better design and the 500 cfm size is a better match for your 5.0 than the Holley 600 cfm carburetor you currently have.

I wouldn't waste any more time on the Holley.

That's the direction I'm going Rick. Only problem now is that everything is starting to slow down now with engine tuning and testing. I'll probably get to it through the winter sometime.

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With the idle speed screw backed out all the way and with maybe a 1mm gap (0.040"), I can actually close the throttle a little more manually...and the idle does drop a little bit...but I don't want to force it any harder than I have been. I don't know what stops the primary throttle plates travel when they're not hitting the idle speed screw. I seem to recall there being an adjustable stop in there, only accessible from the under side of the carb...one of those things that is "factory set"...

Cory, have you tried disconnecting the throttle cable to see if the idle is lower?

 

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Cory, have you tried disconnecting the throttle cable to see if the idle is lower?

David, this exact thought also popped into my head a couple days ago...so I promptly checked it and the cable is all good. There's actually a little bow in the cable because the throttle stops before the end of the cable travel. I disconnected it for a test regardless, and it didn't help.

If money were no object, I'd probably swap over to one of the aftermarket EFI kits this winter, but since that is getting into a $2000 bill, it sure makes a $500 carburetor look good...lol.

Stay tuned for more to this story...

My new O2 sensor will be here tomorrow, so I'll be testing that asap to at least see where my fuel and air is at currently.

 

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