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EEC III California Emissions - time to convert it?


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My 83 F150 (302 V8 with AOD) has all the CA emissions stuff still on it and it's giving me fits. I've been advised by my mechanic to get rid of it and install a new intake and carb. My understanding is I'll also need a different distributor, some wiring and a Duraspark II box? I'm sure there are many who have done this, so if there is a good list of what I need to put together as well as some good sources on where to find it without breaking the bank I would be appreciative.

I do have a new Edelbrock Performer RPM intake that's been sitting for years in my garage (never installed, but meant for another abandoned project). My buddy has a Holley Avenger 570 as well as a Duraspark II module he will sell me. Not sure if that intake and carb combo is ideal for my otherwise stock 302, but I may want to slowy build up/mod this engine over time in the future. For now, I want it to run and work well without getting poor MPG compared to stock.

Photos shown are of my truck as of today.

Thanks!

Troy

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If you don't have to meet emissions testing then it is probably time to convert to DS-II. And I think you have the right list:

  • Distributor: You can either go with a DS-II dizzy or a one-wire unit. But either way it should be one with either an adjustable vacuum advance or one set up for use w/o EGR as the Performer RPM intake doesn't have provisions for EGR - assuming you use the one you have. There's a discussion of one-wire advantages and disadvantages on the One-Wire tab here: Documentation/Ignition.

  • Ignition box: If you go with a DS-II distributor then you need a blue-grommet ignition box. If so, I prefer a Motorcraft box.

  • Wiring: If going DS-II then you'll need the harness that plugs into the wiring coming from the cab.

    But those are hard to find used, so perhaps pick one up from Painless, although those aren't cheap. But if you go one-wire you'll need a relay and you can make your own harness.

As for the intake manifold, you don't have to go with a 4bbl. In fact, the 2150 you have would probably work, or you could pick up one that doesn't have the feedback function in it.

But if you want to go to a 4bbl then you can use the Performer RPM. However it is biased toward high RPM instead of low RPM, which is not usually what trucks need. On the other hand, the 570 CFM Holley isn't a bad choice.

Perhaps you should do the ignition conversion as well as remove the emissions stuff and then see if you want to upgrade to a 4bbl?

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If you don't have to meet emissions testing then it is probably time to convert to DS-II. And I think you have the right list:

  • Distributor: You can either go with a DS-II dizzy or a one-wire unit. But either way it should be one with either an adjustable vacuum advance or one set up for use w/o EGR as the Performer RPM intake doesn't have provisions for EGR - assuming you use the one you have. There's a discussion of one-wire advantages and disadvantages on the One-Wire tab here: Documentation/Ignition.

  • Ignition box: If you go with a DS-II distributor then you need a blue-grommet ignition box. If so, I prefer a Motorcraft box.

  • Wiring: If going DS-II then you'll need the harness that plugs into the wiring coming from the cab.

    But those are hard to find used, so perhaps pick one up from Painless, although those aren't cheap. But if you go one-wire you'll need a relay and you can make your own harness.

As for the intake manifold, you don't have to go with a 4bbl. In fact, the 2150 you have would probably work, or you could pick up one that doesn't have the feedback function in it.

But if you want to go to a 4bbl then you can use the Performer RPM. However it is biased toward high RPM instead of low RPM, which is not usually what trucks need. On the other hand, the 570 CFM Holley isn't a bad choice.

Perhaps you should do the ignition conversion as well as remove the emissions stuff and then see if you want to upgrade to a 4bbl?

Thanks Gary. Do I need to get a different COIL as well, or can I use the one I have now?

Troy

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No, I think the coil you have is fine - assuming it is the can style that I think I see just to the right of the distributor.

Heck Gary, it's been a long time since I've seen an intact heat stove for a thermally assisted choke.

This truck is a time machine. :nabble_anim_handshake:

Looking at that harness I wonder if the only thing he needs is the elusive distributor plug?

Wire color doesn't matter much. The electrons don't care if the sheath is green or purple.

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Heck Gary, it's been a long time since I've seen an intact heat stove for a thermally assisted choke.

This truck is a time machine. :nabble_anim_handshake:

Looking at that harness I wonder if the only thing he needs is the elusive distributor plug?

Wire color doesn't matter much. The electrons don't care if the sheath is green or purple.

Yes, it is a time machine. A very complex one. It is amazing to me what they were able to do with vacuum and simple switches and solenoids. But all of those vacuum hoses are suspect by now and would have to be inspected if not replaced.

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I agree with Gary about Edlebrock Performer RPM intake. The regular "Performer 289" would be a better choice for a truck.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2121

For a replacement carburetor, I think a much better option would be the Summit Racing 500cfm carburetor:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08500vs

If you decide to go with the Edelbrock intake manifold and a 4-barrel carburetor, you are going to have to do something with your stock AOD TV rod. It will not work with an aftermarket carburetor. So you can add an aftermarket Lokar TV cable to the parts list:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-kd-2aodu/overview/

The simplest solution would be to find an older, non-emissions style Autolite 2100 carburetor (in the same size) to replace your stock Motorcraft 2150. You can swap out the throttle shaft to retain the use of the AOD TV rod.

 

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For a replacement carburetor, I think a much better option would be the Summit Racing 500cfm carburetor:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08500vs

Are you running that carb on your 5.0?

I have it saved in my Summit cart. Thinking about swapping out my 600 CFM Holley for this carb in this winter. I have the Performer 289 intake installed now.

 

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For a replacement carburetor, I think a much better option would be the Summit Racing 500cfm carburetor:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08500vs

Are you running that carb on your 5.0?

I have it saved in my Summit cart. Thinking about swapping out my 600 CFM Holley for this carb in this winter. I have the Performer 289 intake installed now.

No, but close.

I am running a Ford Autolite 4100. This is essentially a 4-barrel version of the earlier Autolite 2100, which later became the Motorcraft 2150. Mine was originally engineered to work on a 1965 Ford Mustang with the 289 engine. The smaller size (480cfm) makes it the perfect match for a full-size truck with a 5.0/302 engine. :nabble_smiley_good:

I specifically chose this carburetor because I liked the simplicity and reliability of the stock style Autolite 2100/Motorcraft 2150 carburetors that Ford used for over 20 years. The annular discharge boosters atomize fuel almost as well as fuel injection, and Ford were the first ones to use them in these carburetors. I also really wanted to use the stock style thermostatic "hot air" choke, which also works MUCH better than any aftermarket style fully-electric choke system. My stock electric assist choke cap and dashpot solenoid bolted right up to it with no problems. Even my stock fuel line fit with no modifications. And, the throttle shaft from a Motorcraft 2150 can be swapped to the Autolite 4100 to retain the use of the stock AOD TV rod!

The only reason I don't recommend the Autolite 4100 is because they are getting hard to find unmolested, there are many different sizes and calibrations, and they are getting expensive. The 480 cfm version was only found on the first generation Mustangs, and Mustang guys pay big money for these for their restorations today because they work so well.

The Summit Racing carburetor is a copy of the Holley 4010, which was in turn a copy of the Autolite 4100. Holley actually purchased the annular discharge booster design from Ford in the 1980s. They are now used on the Summit Racing carburetors as well. When I originally replaced my stock Motorcraft 2150 carburetor, I actually ran a Holley Street Avenger carburetor (580cfm) for a couple of years. It ran okay, but it wasn't near as good as the Autolite 4100 or even the stock Motorcraft 2150 my truck came with. And it leaked within two years, as most Holley carburetors do. The Autolite2100/4100 and Motorcraft 2150 (and the Summit Racing carburetor) don't have that problem because the gaskets are above fuel level. The Summit Racing carburetor is as close as you can get to the original Autolite/Motorcraft carburetors, and you can buy them brand new.

Capiche?

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