Gary Lewis Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Ok, I got to go to the shop long enough to tap the valve covers - very solid! Obviously cast. And, I got several text messages from Mark/Dyn Blin. It looks like he got the engine harness back to and including the power distribution box, the MAF sensor and the air box, the cold air inlet, the wye and the large hose that goes to the MAF sensor, and the OBD-II connector. But, the ECU was gone and the harness was cut just before the ECU's connector - in the cab I think. However, the wiring being cut is not a problem as I need to mount the computer in a different location so will need to lengthen the wiring anyway. And, I assume that I can do as you did and turn a EEC-V processor from a smaller engine into one for a 460 - right? As for the smaller hoses that go from the wye to the throttle body, did you have trouble finding them? Any chance I can use the ones I have from the F450 Jim parted out or the ones from Huck for that? Oh, and he said something about a cruise control and maybe something else? Having just posted about EGR and ignition timing on Jonathan's thread, I'm thinking through the consequences of removing the EGR when I EFI Big Blue. I had hoped to use Bill's ignition timing "map", if that is the right word, as a starting point. After all, he's running EEC-V on Darth's 460, which is essentially a stock 1990 460 converted to MAF & SEFI via an EEC-V. (I'm sure glad he's writing up all about Darth as I have a great reference. ) Big Blue will have 1990 heads and injection system, but the 1996 harness Mark/Dyn Blin found in CA. So, Darth's engine and Big Blue's will be quite comparable, with a few minor exceptions: Big Blue's block is an earlier block, so should have slightly higher compression with the EFI heads Big Blue's cam is an Edelbrock Performer, and while still quite mild isn't truly stock I don't intend to run EGR on Big Blue So, with those exceptions what changes will I need to make? Can I clone your ECU, Bill, and then just turn EGR and the auto tranny off? And then start modifying the ignition timing from there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Having just posted about EGR and ignition timing on Jonathan's thread, I'm thinking through the consequences of removing the EGR when I EFI Big Blue. I had hoped to use Bill's ignition timing "map", if that is the right word, as a starting point. After all, he's running EEC-V on Darth's 460, which is essentially a stock 1990 460 converted to MAF & SEFI via an EEC-V. (I'm sure glad he's writing up all about Darth as I have a great reference. ) Big Blue will have 1990 heads and injection system, but the 1996 harness Mark/Dyn Blin found in CA. So, Darth's engine and Big Blue's will be quite comparable, with a few minor exceptions: Big Blue's block is an earlier block, so should have slightly higher compression with the EFI heads Big Blue's cam is an Edelbrock Performer, and while still quite mild isn't truly stock I don't intend to run EGR on Big Blue So, with those exceptions what changes will I need to make? Can I clone your ECU, Bill, and then just turn EGR and the auto tranny off? And then start modifying the ignition timing from there? Probably can, the spark table you will need to work with is pretty well defined, it is MAX spark something and has a relationship to engine load so you can dial it back as needed, you will also need to reduce the maximum advance under load for the higher compression as higher compression = faster burn rate. Trivia item, but germane to this area. In the mid - late 80s, Chrysler changed the head on the 4 cyl. engines from a swirl design to one they called a "fast burn". The spark tables for the 2 heads are quite different, the fast burn does just that, a quicker combustion so the under load advance needs to be reduced. Turbo chargers, blowers, also need less advance under load as forced induction = higher cylinder pressure = fast burn rate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Probably can, the spark table you will need to work with is pretty well defined, it is MAX spark something and has a relationship to engine load so you can dial it back as needed, you will also need to reduce the maximum advance under load for the higher compression as higher compression = faster burn rate. Trivia item, but germane to this area. In the mid - late 80s, Chrysler changed the head on the 4 cyl. engines from a swirl design to one they called a "fast burn". The spark tables for the 2 heads are quite different, the fast burn does just that, a quicker combustion so the under load advance needs to be reduced. Turbo chargers, blowers, also need less advance under load as forced induction = higher cylinder pressure = fast burn rate. Thanks. I'll be contacting Core Tuning in the not too-distant future to find out what I need from them. But, it just feels like there should be a book on it somewhere. Any suggested reading? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Thanks. I'll be contacting Core Tuning in the not too-distant future to find out what I need from them. But, it just feels like there should be a book on it somewhere. Any suggested reading? There used to be some out there, there is a forum on FTE devoted to it. Many of the companies that sell MAF conversions have some tutorials on it, but it is more geared to selling their products. Yahoo groups has one that Dan Lee and I are members of EECTuner. There is information there, but that is where I dead ended on mine till Adam Marrer contacted me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 There used to be some out there, there is a forum on FTE devoted to it. Many of the companies that sell MAF conversions have some tutorials on it, but it is more geared to selling their products. Yahoo groups has one that Dan Lee and I are members of EECTuner. There is information there, but that is where I dead ended on mine till Adam Marrer contacted me. Ok, I’ll contact them and set something up. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Ok, I’ll contact them and set something up. Thanks. Riding in a relatively-new vehicle today on a dirt road with lots of dust made me realize that I need to put a filter on the inlet air to the HVAC system on Big Blue. Any thoughts on how to do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Riding in a relatively-new vehicle today on a dirt road with lots of dust made me realize that I need to put a filter on the inlet air to the HVAC system on Big Blue. Any thoughts on how to do that? You could probably come up with something but because there is no provision for it you will have to fabricate a holder for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 You could probably come up with something but because there is no provision for it you will have to fabricate a holder for it. True. But how to get to it to change it? Might there be a way to put one where it is accessible by pulling the motor? Also, this is making me rethink the recirc door and heater hose controls. It would sure be nice to have A/C, and maybe vent, and still have temp control - while the recirculate door is closed to keep the dust down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 True. But how to get to it to change it? Might there be a way to put one where it is accessible by pulling the motor? Also, this is making me rethink the recirc door and heater hose controls. It would sure be nice to have A/C, and maybe vent, and still have temp control - while the recirculate door is closed to keep the dust down. Seems like it would have to go between cowl and fan plenum. Spacing the fan/motor out might allow you to do that (somehow) Trying to make a modern vehicle out of a 40 year old one. It would be more expedient to re-skin Blue and call it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Seems like it would have to go between cowl and fan plenum. Spacing the fan/motor out might allow you to do that (somehow) Trying to make a modern vehicle out of a 40 year old one. It would be more expedient to re-skin Blue and call it done. What about running the A/C on Max Cool, only? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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