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"Baruch" - The 1983 F100 Soon-to-be Work Truck


Ethobling

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Yeah I deleted it because I realized it was a dumb question. I should have just looked at the pan better.

Thanks for the tip on using silicone.

Thanks for the link, Mr. 1986.

The only stupid question is the one not asked.

Let us know if you run into any difficulties.

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The only stupid question is the one not asked.

Let us know if you run into any difficulties.

I thought the oil pan would come off by just unbolting it and lightly prying it off and then removing it. NOPE. Should have looked in the Haynes manual first.

Didn't know I had to remove the radiator and the other 20 steps.

Going to try to put in a new gasket with the oil pan off (even if I only have 2-4 inches of clearance).

Any tips?

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I thought the oil pan would come off by just unbolting it and lightly prying it off and then removing it. NOPE. Should have looked in the Haynes manual first.

Didn't know I had to remove the radiator and the other 20 steps.

Going to try to put in a new gasket with the oil pan off (even if I only have 2-4 inches of clearance).

Any tips?

That would be a difficulty. :nabble_smiley_unhappy:

I usually start with

Step one: Remove the engine from the vehicle....

You have the multi piece gasket, so you can do it as you are trying to.

It's just really difficult to do it right.

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I thought the oil pan would come off by just unbolting it and lightly prying it off and then removing it. NOPE. Should have looked in the Haynes manual first.

Didn't know I had to remove the radiator and the other 20 steps.

Going to try to put in a new gasket with the oil pan off (even if I only have 2-4 inches of clearance).

Any tips?

I've not done one on the 300 six, but I remove the fan and the shroud, pull the mount bolts, and put a jack on the dampener on the front of the crank. Raise the engine gently while watching for things that bind. Sometimes the exhaust has to be loosened if not removed. Sometimes a valve cover hits the firewall.

But get it as high as you can and then figure out how to block it for safety. Sometimes 2x4 chunks between the mounts and the frame work.

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I've not done one on the 300 six, but I remove the fan and the shroud, pull the mount bolts, and put a jack on the dampener on the front of the crank. Raise the engine gently while watching for things that bind. Sometimes the exhaust has to be loosened if not removed. Sometimes a valve cover hits the firewall.

But get it as high as you can and then figure out how to block it for safety. Sometimes 2x4 chunks between the mounts and the frame work.

Question: I got a 30x9.50xR15 tire for free with lots of tread left. I looked it up and it is 3.8% wider than a 235, which is on Baruch now. The same website says to stick to within 3% of width of the original tires to "avoid brake failure." It's only another .8%, so it should work, right?

Also I have yet to continue past removing the radiator and starter on Baruch to put in the new gasket; I've been to busy with other cars/work. Next week I should get some time to work on it.

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Question: I got a 30x9.50xR15 tire for free with lots of tread left. I looked it up and it is 3.8% wider than a 235, which is on Baruch now. The same website says to stick to within 3% of width of the original tires to "avoid brake failure." It's only another .8%, so it should work, right?

Also I have yet to continue past removing the radiator and starter on Baruch to put in the new gasket; I've been to busy with other cars/work. Next week I should get some time to work on it.

I've never heard of having brake failure due to a wider tire. So I don't see a problem brake-wise by going with the wider tire.

However, I have seen steering/tracking problems when using too wide of a tire on your original rim. Most of these trucks came with a 5.5" wide rim which is usually said to be 6" wide. And if you put too wide of a tire on it the tire won't flatten out the way it should at the correct pressure. In other words, you'll be running on just the center section of the tire if that's the case.

I don't think a 3.8% wider tire will cause a problem, but I would go to Tire Rack, find the tire you are thinking of, and look at the width of rim on which it is to be mounted.

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I've never heard of having brake failure due to a wider tire. So I don't see a problem brake-wise by going with the wider tire.

However, I have seen steering/tracking problems when using too wide of a tire on your original rim. Most of these trucks came with a 5.5" wide rim which is usually said to be 6" wide. And if you put too wide of a tire on it the tire won't flatten out the way it should at the correct pressure. In other words, you'll be running on just the center section of the tire if that's the case.

I don't think a 3.8% wider tire will cause a problem, but I would go to Tire Rack, find the tire you are thinking of, and look at the width of rim on which it is to be mounted.

Since the sticker inside the door says the original rims run a 195-75-R15, I will just use the 30x9.5 as a spare. Just seems too wide.

Now, when I go to get new tires, I'll probably get 215s or 225s just to be on the safe side.

What do y'all think of the Wrangler Trailrunners? Decent price, good load index (~1850 lbs each), good treadwear rating of 580, good traction rating of "A"...

However those are numbers. Does anyone have experience with these in the world?

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Since the sticker inside the door says the original rims run a 195-75-R15, I will just use the 30x9.5 as a spare. Just seems too wide.

Now, when I go to get new tires, I'll probably get 215s or 225s just to be on the safe side.

What do y'all think of the Wrangler Trailrunners? Decent price, good load index (~1850 lbs each), good treadwear rating of 580, good traction rating of "A"...

However those are numbers. Does anyone have experience with these in the world?

I've not run them, but I did check Tire Rack and they are highly rated.

The only issue I can see is that your speedo will probably be about 10% slow. But you can correct that by changing out the speedo gear on the transmission end of the speedometer cable. That's really very easily done.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've not run them, but I did check Tire Rack and they are highly rated.

The only issue I can see is that your speedo will probably be about 10% slow. But you can correct that by changing out the speedo gear on the transmission end of the speedometer cable. That's really very easily done.

Went to the pick and pull 2 days ago to get hoses for my brother's 2001 Nissan Xterra (been working on it for over a week now :/) and checked out the trucks for a bed for Baruch in the future...

There are some REALLY nice beds there. 2 of them have practically no rust and are the 7ft beds. I guess that's an advantage of living in the south east.

I can't wait (even though I will have to :nabble_smiley_unhappy:).

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Went to the pick and pull 2 days ago to get hoses for my brother's 2001 Nissan Xterra (been working on it for over a week now :/) and checked out the trucks for a bed for Baruch in the future...

There are some REALLY nice beds there. 2 of them have practically no rust and are the 7ft beds. I guess that's an advantage of living in the south east.

I can't wait (even though I will have to :nabble_smiley_unhappy:).

Don't wait too long. Beds are in demand, so they might sell. And some salvages are closing as there isn't enough money in it to sustain them, and they are crushing their leftover vehicles. So don't assume they'll be there forever.

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