Whisler Posted December 3, 2017 Author Share Posted December 3, 2017 I still say you should do the load test I described. It takes only a minute to do. It will show you the operation of the regulator and how the alternator does at load. technically an alternator can supply the correct voltage when at no load or low load . . but fail at high load. The load test is the last test to be performed. Gary: my voltmeter is an aftermarket gauge under the dash, but my measurements were done with a cheapo VOM on the battery terminals. I would love to do the Rocketman conversion but that's for later on. Pete: will do the load test when I get some time, possibly tomorrow after church. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whisler Posted December 3, 2017 Author Share Posted December 3, 2017 Gary: my voltmeter is an aftermarket gauge under the dash, but my measurements were done with a cheapo VOM on the battery terminals. I would love to do the Rocketman conversion but that's for later on. Pete: will do the load test when I get some time, possibly tomorrow after church. Load test results: Battery voltage before start -----12.52 v Running, high idle, no load ------14.88 v Running, high idle, loaded -------14.66 v (test done on a cold engine) How does that look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Load test results: Battery voltage before start -----12.52 v Running, high idle, no load ------14.88 v Running, high idle, loaded -------14.66 v (test done on a cold engine) How does that look? Somehow I am not seeing Pete's instructions on how to do the load test. What am I doing wrong? Anyway, Whisler, those results look good to me. The loaded voltage is a bit higher than I would expect, but then the alternator was cold, so it should come down as the temp goes up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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