FuzzFace2 Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 First lets not start "it is not legal ...." bla bla bla. It is my truck and it is the way "I" want to do it. Does the factory books list how thick the Butyl tape should be for the windshield? I know it comes in at least 2 sizes 5/16" & 3/8" and I want to get the right size so when I have a helping hand I can install the glass. BTW it will not pop out in a crash! I had to cut this one out so I could remove it before the dogs would get hurt on it. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 It is designed to pop out when hit from inside, however, as the Butyl tape ages it gets harder. I can ask Monday when the local windshield installer comes to put the one in my convertible. One warning on windshields, every company I have dealt with is convinced that ALL 1980-1996/7 pickup trucks and Broncos use the same windshield. Wrong! The VIN location on the 1980-86 models is approximately 2" further inboard than the 1987-96/7 location and the black section on the bottom of the later windshield covers the VIN plate making it unreadable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 It is designed to pop out when hit from inside, however, as the Butyl tape ages it gets harder. I can ask Monday when the local windshield installer comes to put the one in my convertible. One warning on windshields, every company I have dealt with is convinced that ALL 1980-1996/7 pickup trucks and Broncos use the same windshield. Wrong! The VIN location on the 1980-86 models is approximately 2" further inboard than the 1987-96/7 location and the black section on the bottom of the later windshield covers the VIN plate making it unreadable. Bill is right - make SURE you get a windshield that shows the VIN. Otherwise it is a real problem when you register the truck somewhere. Don't ask. And Page 43-11-1 of the '85 FSM says "Procedure No. 1 should be used with butyl kit (19562) packaged with 5/16" diameter butyl (round type). DO NOT use this kit if adhesion of the existing butyl-to-pinch weld flange is unreliable, as indicated by a surface which is not smooth and free of excessive skips, bumps and contamination. Procedure No. 2 should be used with butyl kit (19562) packaged with "I" beam type butyl, where complete replacement of existing butyl is necessary." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 Bill is right - make SURE you get a windshield that shows the VIN. Otherwise it is a real problem when you register the truck somewhere. Don't ask. And Page 43-11-1 of the '85 FSM says "Procedure No. 1 should be used with butyl kit (19562) packaged with 5/16" diameter butyl (round type). DO NOT use this kit if adhesion of the existing butyl-to-pinch weld flange is unreliable, as indicated by a surface which is not smooth and free of excessive skips, bumps and contamination. Procedure No. 2 should be used with butyl kit (19562) packaged with "I" beam type butyl, where complete replacement of existing butyl is necessary." Thanks guys I knew of the VIN window but I don't have to replace the glass just install it as I took it out for body work and to reseal with new Butyl but will make sure some dope did not install the wrong one before it is dropped in. I have done a few of the Butyl installs and know once it touches the tape it is not moving, so get it right the first time as there is no 2nd time! The pinch weld is nice and clean and flat like the glass so should not have any issues on leaks. 5/16" it is I don't know if the paint store stocks it but will get a kit ordered if not. I also need to check the molding clips to make sure I have enough from the 2 trucks to have a good set. I also know it uses 2 different types of clips and think I can get either from LMC if need be. Thanks again Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Thanks guys I knew of the VIN window but I don't have to replace the glass just install it as I took it out for body work and to reseal with new Butyl but will make sure some dope did not install the wrong one before it is dropped in. I have done a few of the Butyl installs and know once it touches the tape it is not moving, so get it right the first time as there is no 2nd time! The pinch weld is nice and clean and flat like the glass so should not have any issues on leaks. 5/16" it is I don't know if the paint store stocks it but will get a kit ordered if not. I also need to check the molding clips to make sure I have enough from the 2 trucks to have a good set. I also know it uses 2 different types of clips and think I can get either from LMC if need be. Thanks again Dave ---- Windshield trim clips are shown here on the Windshield Trim tab: Documentation/Exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Ford doesn't design anything to fly or fall off during a wreck. Flying debris creates new hazards - that's why safety glass is required on all vehicle windshields; as much as possible stays attached. The tape needs to be thick enough to fill the irregularities on your truck's steel lip, and still adhere to the glass all the way around. Any thicker is a waste. You can straighten that lip with hammers & dollies, and fill deep voids with seam sealer. https://supermotors.net/getfile/921211/thumbnail/97cupbrush.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/921214/thumbnail/97lhbcorner.jpg But modern polyurethane w/s adhesive is superior, and probably cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 Ford doesn't design anything to fly or fall off during a wreck. Flying debris creates new hazards - that's why safety glass is required on all vehicle windshields; as much as possible stays attached. The tape needs to be thick enough to fill the irregularities on your truck's steel lip, and still adhere to the glass all the way around. Any thicker is a waste. You can straighten that lip with hammers & dollies, and fill deep voids with seam sealer. https://supermotors.net/getfile/921211/thumbnail/97cupbrush.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/921214/thumbnail/97lhbcorner.jpg But modern polyurethane w/s adhesive is superior, and probably cheaper. I don't know about cheaper. Maybe to buy the tube(s) of glue but I hear you need to heat it, it uses a special gun to get it out, there is a learning curve to get it 5/16" thick all the way around the glass and it will squeeze out and drip on the dash and why they lay down rags till it sets up. Tape is easy, is not that much money, as you said pinch weld needs to be flat for both and clean for both. Tape comes in a roll starting at the top and roll it out all the way around and lay the clean glass on top and press down all the way around to make sure it sets on the Butyl. Also if the glass sits to low or to high the moldings will not fit right. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 I don't know about cheaper. Maybe to buy the tube(s) of glue but I hear you need to heat it, it uses a special gun to get it out, there is a learning curve to get it 5/16" thick all the way around the glass and it will squeeze out and drip on the dash and why they lay down rags till it sets up. Tape is easy, is not that much money, as you said pinch weld needs to be flat for both and clean for both. Tape comes in a roll starting at the top and roll it out all the way around and lay the clean glass on top and press down all the way around to make sure it sets on the Butyl. Also if the glass sits to low or to high the moldings will not fit right. Dave ---- It's not DIY cheap - it's cheap to pay a pro to install the w/s using it. You do all the prep, and let someone who has the tools & experience do the last step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 It's not DIY cheap - it's cheap to pay a pro to install the w/s using it. You do all the prep, and let someone who has the tools & experience do the last step. I fully agree, that is why Accomack GoGlass will be installing the one in my Chrysler convertible Monday. I removed all the trim (big job on a K-car convertible) and scraped as much of the old sealer out as I could get since I wanted to make sure there were no rusted areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 I fully agree, that is why Accomack GoGlass will be installing the one in my Chrysler convertible Monday. I removed all the trim (big job on a K-car convertible) and scraped as much of the old sealer out as I could get since I wanted to make sure there were no rusted areas. On my 70 AMC Javelin because I am flush mounting the front & rear glass that will be farmed out but the truck I will use the Butyl as I can do that install myself. The only thing I have not done myself was press the kingpin bushing in and ream them and I should have tried as they messed that up. I do know when to get help or farm out but this is not one of them times. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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