vicp21 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 I didn’t say I was using a hammer...I know. I was talking about why I don't pull the body first. I used my air hammer yesterday to align the door on my '95 F150. I used it last month to shred my '94 CV. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1144118/thumbnail/split.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1145099/thumbnail/20190127_143110.jpg It's a fun tool! What are you doing with the crown vic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 What are you doing with the crown vic? Scrapping it. Read this & the NEXT few captions: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1139116/thumbnail/20180826_182101.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Scrapping it. Read this & the NEXT few captions: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1139116/thumbnail/20180826_182101.jpg I think you'll like the new 2-poster for that kind of work. I've done several with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 So I could measure the bolt protrusion as well as the height of the bushing/mount between cab and frame - if that would help. Hey Gary, I think I should be OK with the protrusion measurement for now. It will effectively give the same as stock dimension. However, I still have to install the bed, with new mounting blocks, and I'm replacing the front fenders as well, so I'm going to have some body alignment work to do for sure. Currently, I just want to get the cab back to where it was. I think the cab needs to be shifted a little bit (I haven't measured it against the frame yet). The driver's front wheel was sticking out past the fender a little further than the RH side, and the rad support was pushed hard to the right, so that tells me the cab could be cocked to the right a little bit. I'll deal with that when I install the new front fenders. I'll loosen the cab mounts and shift it if need be. So tell me Ford & Bullnose experts, what is the reasoning for the two different sized brake line fittings in the axle end of the rear flex line?. The larger of the two was a bit difficult to find. After two parts shops came up empty I stopped at one of the two Ford dealers, and sure enough, they found one somewhere on dust covered shelf out back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Nice pics and video links! Thanks! By any chance are you taking before and after measurements between the body and frame? I’m curious how much the new bushings pick up the cab. Did you go with rubber or poly? By the way, it turns out that measurements were not required, not with the stock replacement mounts at least. I did measure the bolt protrusion so I could set it exactly the same when I installed the new mounts. What I did was cut four little pieces of 3/8" hose to stick over the bolts so that I could tighten the mounts evenly until the bolt protrusion was the correct length. It ended up that they all bottomed out, and the bolt protrusion was correct on all four corners. This may not apply to the Poly mounts, but with the stock replacements, it looks like the installed height is a fixed distance. The new mounts look much better installed and I'm sure it will be a little nicer/smoother ride in the cab now compared to the old stiff/cracked/worn out rubber mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 Nice pics and video links! Thanks! By any chance are you taking before and after measurements between the body and frame? I’m curious how much the new bushings pick up the cab. Did you go with rubber or poly? By the way, it turns out that measurements were not required, not with the stock replacement mounts at least. I did measure the bolt protrusion so I could set it exactly the same when I installed the new mounts. What I did was cut four little pieces of 3/8" hose to stick over the bolts so that I could tighten the mounts evenly until the bolt protrusion was the correct length. It ended up that they all bottomed out, and the bolt protrusion was correct on all four corners. This may not apply to the Poly mounts, but with the stock replacements, it looks like the installed height is a fixed distance. The new mounts look much better installed and I'm sure it will be a little nicer/smoother ride in the cab now compared to the old stiff/cracked/worn out rubber mounts. That's good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share Posted February 24, 2019 That's good to know. This little gadget above my wheel cylinder...is it supposed to be loose or fixed rigid? The one on the driver's side doesn't move, and the one on the passenger side fell off during disassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 This little gadget above my wheel cylinder...is it supposed to be loose or fixed rigid? The one on the driver's side doesn't move, and the one on the passenger side fell off during disassembly. All the ones I have come across come off. They do like to rust in place. If you hit it with a little PB Blaster and tap with a hammer it will come loose to clean up. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 This little gadget above my wheel cylinder...is it supposed to be loose or fixed rigid? The one on the driver's side doesn't move, and the one on the passenger side fell off during disassembly. Cory - That is a Plate (Brake Shoe Anchor Pin) D7TZ 2028-B. But Dave is right, it should be able to rotate. And while his picture is the best, here's the illustration from Driveline/Brakes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share Posted February 24, 2019 Cory - That is a Plate (Brake Shoe Anchor Pin) D7TZ 2028-B. Thanks Gary, I'll free it up, no worries. Appreciate the reply. Now, I'm just installing the master cylinder, and I can't remember the orientation of the brake switch and plastic bushings, etc. Do you have a picture of this on the site? I just checked the brakes page and I didn't see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts