Gary Lewis Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 Ok, another braking question since I'm trying to get everything ready to order. When I'm looking at the parts selection for 1984, it shows two different options for rear brake wheel cylinders. 15/16" bore and 1" bore. My originals are 15/16". Was this a cut-off issue, where all of the later wheel cylinders were 1" bore? It likely doesn't matter much in the grand scheme of things.... Interesting Q&A. When I first looked at the rear brake application info in the brakes page (Driveline/Brakes) I saw that it says Parts List No. 2 for all F150's, regardless of year. So that would seem to say they only had one size. But, if you scroll on down to Parts List No. 2 you find: So, it looks like the wheel cylinders got smaller a/o 10/83 rather than larger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 So, it looks like the wheel cylinders got smaller a/o 10/83 rather than larger. Very interesting. Thanks Gary. My 1984 was built in 12/83, and definitely had 15/16" bore wheel cylinders, so that's what I'll order up. Thanks again Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 ...options for rear brake wheel cylinders. 15/16" bore and 1" bore. ... It likely doesn't matter much in the grand scheme of things...I'd guess it's a way of biasing the rear brakes for wheelbase, bed size, & cargo capacity/trailering. The larger bore would be for lighter-duty trucks, because it would cause less piston travel/braking force (same volume, larger area) on the back wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 So, it looks like the wheel cylinders got smaller a/o 10/83 rather than larger. Very interesting. Thanks Gary. My 1984 was built in 12/83, and definitely had 15/16" bore wheel cylinders, so that's what I'll order up. Thanks again Gary! What do you guys do when making new fuel lines for the carbed trucks? How do you make the bead flares on the ends of the steel line? I can do brake line flares, but they're not the same as fuel line flare where rubber hose is meant to slip on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 What do you guys do when making new fuel lines for the carbed trucks? How do you make the bead flares on the ends of the steel line? I can do brake line flares, but they're not the same as fuel line flare where rubber hose is meant to slip on. Why would anyone use steel??? https://supermotors.net/getfile/927685/thumbnail/fueltubing.jpg That's cheaper, easier, & better in every way. It'll never degrade unless you set the truck on fire, in which case steel tubing won't really help anything anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Why would anyone use steel??? That's cheaper, easier, & better in every way. It'll never degrade unless you set the truck on fire, in which case steel tubing won't really help anything anyway. LOL...Steve, you're killing me here...every time I mention a part that has lasted for 35 years, you tell me it's no good, poor quality, and unreliable...lol. Anyway...that's fine. This is why I'm asking. My truck still had the original steel line, and I was going to replace it with the same. How does this nylon tubing work? Does it just slide over the barbs on the fuel pump and sending unit, same as rubber hose would? Will it be OK running within a few inches of the exhaust headers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicp21 Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 What do you guys do when making new fuel lines for the carbed trucks? How do you make the bead flares on the ends of the steel line? I can do brake line flares, but they're not the same as fuel line flare where rubber hose is meant to slip on. I usually just do an inverted flare like a brake line then slide it over and clamp. I don’t my kit has a fitting for what you’re talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 I usually just do an inverted flare like a brake line then slide it over and clamp. I don’t my kit has a fitting for what you’re talking about. I don't know if I would use the plastic line close to heat like a header but from tank(s) to pump I would do. To install someone posted you would heat the end of the line so it was a little soft and then push it onto the barb. When it cools it shrinks a little it will be tight, You can then put a clamp on it to be sure. If you do the metal line I have just put the rubber hose on it and never had any issues of them coming off. Now I have not tried this what if you tried to flare the line but only the 2nd part not the first? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 I don't know if I would use the plastic line close to heat like a header but from tank(s) to pump I would do. To install someone posted you would heat the end of the line so it was a little soft and then push it onto the barb. When it cools it shrinks a little it will be tight, You can then put a clamp on it to be sure. If you do the metal line I have just put the rubber hose on it and never had any issues of them coming off. Now I have not tried this what if you tried to flare the line but only the 2nd part not the first? Dave ---- No, I wouldn't use any line close to a header or exhaust. Especially not rubber or plastic. As for installing, I heated mine w/a heat gun and it slipped right on. But when it cooled it was "there". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 No, I wouldn't use any line close to a header or exhaust. Especially not rubber or plastic. As for installing, I heated mine w/a heat gun and it slipped right on. But when it cooled it was "there". I think I'll just go with a steel fuel line the same as it was from the factory. It lasted for 35 years, it will last another 35. I'd like to get the bend up front a little tighter to the frame to keep it further away from the exhaust, so we'll see how it goes. New booster and master cyl will be in tomorrow, so if all goes well, I'll be running some brake lines this weekend. Popped the old booster off this evening so I can bring it in with me and avoid the core charge (and the non-refundable tax that goes with it...another pet peeve of mine...lol). Ordered four new cab mounts and a few other odds and ends from LMC. I drilled the head of the LR cab mount last night, and it looks like it's coming out with the recip saw. I assume all four of them will be like that. The core support mounts were hateful to remove as well. Plugged in my new fuel tank sending unit to check the fuel gauge operation, and it's working exactly like it's supposed to. Good news there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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