Rembrant Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Not "full" - you only need to change the front 3 sections (LHF, RHF, & forward section of the rear line) from the proportioning-valve configuration to the RPV (Aluminum MC) configuration. '87 would work, but so would any other year up to '96. Just pick ONE. I'd either shop around, and see what year is most-common, most-available, and most-affordable; or I'd browse the JYs for whatever configuration was used on '96 F150s (probably '94-96), and get a good used set (from any number of donor trucks, as long as the lines matched). I need a "full" kit because I'm replacing all of my brakes. My truck current has NO brake lines on it. I'm not just doing a master cylinder change here...I'm doing all of it. Steve, you must be in the south? Getting brake lines from a junkyard?...that's something that's just not possible here. Technically speaking, making all new lines is not a problem for me at all, and I'll probably end up doing that. My problem currently is a bad rotator cuff, so I have limited mobility of my right arm, and I'm trying to find ways to get this project moving along without having to spend too much time under the truck bending and fitting lines. In any case, the '87-up master/booster sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the suggestion on this. I just need to figure out how/where to tee that front line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 I need a "full" kit...What I'm saying is I don't think you'll be able to buy a pre-made "kit" with all the lines you need because it'll be custom - not factory. All the trucks with the Aluminum MC/RPV had ABS, and you don't want to add that. So the front 3 lines will be the later configuration; the rear-rear line will be early.But I got lost about the left front hose. Does it need to be changed?I just need to figure out how/where to tee that front line.Just get the LHF hose that matches the lines you get. LHF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQTLNE (with T) RHF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CLMAEQ (all '80-96) Rear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0VVFI (all '80-96) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 I need a "full" kit...What I'm saying is I don't think you'll be able to buy a pre-made "kit" with all the lines you need because it'll be custom - not factory. All the trucks with the Aluminum MC/RPV had ABS, and you don't want to add that. So the front 3 lines will be the later configuration; the rear-rear line will be early.But I got lost about the left front hose. Does it need to be changed?I just need to figure out how/where to tee that front line.Just get the LHF hose that matches the lines you get. LHF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQTLNE (with T) RHF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CLMAEQ (all '80-96) Rear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0VVFI (all '80-96) Steve, Why the change of the front hard lines & hose if going with the 87 up alum. master & booster? Is it because you are also using the PRV from that same system that also used the ABS? If one wanted to just switch the two 80-86 MC lines could they? Does the alum. MC have metric ports on it or has different size fittings than the old steel MC and why the change? I also have to replace the MC & booster on my 81 and it would be nice if I could just bolt up the alum MC with booster and switch the lines and not have to re-bleed the system again because of the line change out. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Why the change of the front hard lines & hose if going with the 87 up alum. master & booster?Mainly because he said he wanted all new. But also because, with the later RPV system, there's no need to keep the proportioning valve. So all those hard lines are different. And on most, the front output line goes to the LHF hose, which Ts to the RHF line; so if he uses that configuration of hard lines, he MUST also use that LHF hose.If one wanted to just switch the two 80-86 MC lines could they?No, because the later MC hard lines don't go to a Pro.Vlv., so there's nothing to switch them to; all the front hard lines have to match each other. And if you're about to ask me if one can just switch the MCs; one has. http://supermotors.net/getfile/931972/fullsize/brakeadapt.jpg But one doesn't recommend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Why the change of the front hard lines & hose if going with the 87 up alum. master & booster?Mainly because he said he wanted all new. But also because, with the later RPV system, there's no need to keep the proportioning valve. So all those hard lines are different. And on most, the front output line goes to the LHF hose, which Ts to the RHF line; so if he uses that configuration of hard lines, he MUST also use that LHF hose.If one wanted to just switch the two 80-86 MC lines could they?No, because the later MC hard lines don't go to a Pro.Vlv., so there's nothing to switch them to; all the front hard lines have to match each other. And if you're about to ask me if one can just switch the MCs; one has. http://supermotors.net/getfile/931972/fullsize/brakeadapt.jpg But one doesn't recommend it. Ok, I think I'm pretty much off to the races. It wasn't clear to me how the plumbing was routed up front with the integrated tee in the LH flex line, but I found a video on Youtube where I could see it, and that cleared up that confusion for me. If I'm using the later aluminum master cyl and making my own lines, the only other item I really need to go with it is that LH front flex line with the tee, right? I was looking at the different boosters, and in through 87-89 (I think) there are options for 10 3/4" OD boosters, and 11 1/2" OD boosters. Starting around 1990 or 1991, the boosters aren't identified by their size. Is it safe to assume that they are 10 3/4, or would they lower profile boosters be 11 1/2"? The reason I ask is, my truck appears to have a 10 3/4" booster, and the clutch master is hard up against it, so an 11 1/2" booster won't fit. To remove all doubt, I guess I'd just order a 1984 replacement, since they function the same. About the switch in my external proportioning valve. According to my 84 EVTM, the switch is NO, and closes when there is a brake pressure failure in the front or rear. I guess I'd just leave this disconnected and tape over the end of the plug so the two ends don't touch something or get full of water/moisture. Are the ports in the aluminum master oriented the same as the old cast iron one? Front port for rear brakes, and rear port for front brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 And if you're about to ask me if one can just switch the MCs; one has. http://supermotors.net/getfile/931972/fullsize/brakeadapt.jpg But one doesn't recommend it. Well that answers that question Guess I will stick to the "car show" setup Thanks for the information Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 I was looking at the different boosters, and in through 87-89 (I think) there are options for 10 3/4" OD boosters, and 11 1/2" OD boosters. Starting around 1990 or 1991, the boosters aren't identified by their size. Is it safe to assume that they are 10 3/4, or would they lower profile boosters be 11 1/2"? The reason I ask is, my truck appears to have a 10 3/4" booster, and the clutch master is hard up against it, so an 11 1/2" booster won't fit. To remove all doubt, I guess I'd just order a 1984 replacement, since they function the same. Are the ports in the aluminum master oriented the same as the old cast iron one? Front port for rear brakes, and rear port for front brakes? I also saw that on Rock Auto site on the booster sizes. Between the booster the master and lines I will be using the factory stuff again in my truck. Good luck on this part of your project. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 If I'm using the later aluminum master cyl and making my own lines, the only other item I really need to go with it is that LH front flex line with the tee, right?Yes....the clutch master is hard up against it, so an 11 1/2" booster won't fit.No problem on mine. This is the '82 body tub/firewall with '84-91 clutch MC & '87-96 brake booster/MC. https://supermotors.net/getfile/537837/thumbnail/boostermc.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/144063/thumbnail/engine-bay.jpg...the switch is NO, and closes when there is a brake pressure failure in the front or rear. I guess I'd just leave this disconnected...Or connect it to the fluid level switch. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1101054/thumbnail/brakewarn92.jpgAre the ports in the aluminum master oriented the same as the old cast iron one? Front port for rear brakes, and rear port for front brakes?No, the RPV is for the rears. This is for a '93-96 Bronco, but the MC is the same as '87-92 Bronco & '87-96 F150: https://supermotors.net/getfile/255501/thumbnail/4wabscomponents.jpg You can see the front line passing straight through the hanger loop. IGNORE the rest of the diagram & its caption - you'll never encounter that system, and it'll only confuse you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 If I'm using the later aluminum master cyl and making my own lines, the only other item I really need to go with it is that LH front flex line with the tee, right?Yes....the clutch master is hard up against it, so an 11 1/2" booster won't fit.No problem on mine. This is the '82 body tub/firewall with '84-91 clutch MC & '87-96 brake booster/MC. https://supermotors.net/getfile/537837/thumbnail/boostermc.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/144063/thumbnail/engine-bay.jpg...the switch is NO, and closes when there is a brake pressure failure in the front or rear. I guess I'd just leave this disconnected...Or connect it to the fluid level switch. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1101054/thumbnail/brakewarn92.jpgAre the ports in the aluminum master oriented the same as the old cast iron one? Front port for rear brakes, and rear port for front brakes?No, the RPV is for the rears. This is for a '93-96 Bronco, but the MC is the same as '87-92 Bronco & '87-96 F150: https://supermotors.net/getfile/255501/thumbnail/4wabscomponents.jpg You can see the front line passing straight through the hanger loop. IGNORE the rest of the diagram & its caption - you'll never encounter that system, and it'll only confuse you. I really like the idea of using the low brake fluid switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 I really like the idea of using the low brake fluid switch. Ok, another braking question since I'm trying to get everything ready to order. When I'm looking at the parts selection for 1984, it shows two different options for rear brake wheel cylinders. 15/16" bore and 1" bore. My originals are 15/16". Was this a cut-off issue, where all of the later wheel cylinders were 1" bore? It likely doesn't matter much in the grand scheme of things.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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