My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

[Gary Lewis]

Here we go, genuine Junkyard part installed on the old Blue Mule!

Before:

Installed this afternoon:

Cost was $7.85 + 15% tax = $9.00 out the door.

I probably put way too much time into it, but whatever, I did need a new cover anyway, so why not.

Beautiful!!! Really well done. And, at that price it is truly amazing.

[grumpin]

Beautiful!!! Really well done. And, at that price it is truly amazing.

I agree, very nice!

[Rembrant]

Beautiful!!! Really well done. And, at that price it is truly amazing.

I'm pretty sure my 34 year old master cylinder (and probably 34 year old brake fluid) was well beyond it's best before date! That is some filthy grunge right there.

Before I go to crazy ordering all new brake system parts, has anybody installed the pre-made brake line kits from Bronco Graveyard?

Has anybody installed their aftermarket proportioning valve kit (and used the suggested bleeder tool?)

I'm replacing the entire braking system, so I'm just making a list of where to order everything from.

[FuzzFace2]

I'm pretty sure my 34 year old master cylinder (and probably 34 year old brake fluid) was well beyond it's best before date! That is some filthy grunge right there.

Before I go to crazy ordering all new brake system parts, has anybody installed the pre-made brake line kits from Bronco Graveyard?

Has anybody installed their aftermarket proportioning valve kit (and used the suggested bleeder tool?)

I'm replacing the entire braking system, so I'm just making a list of where to order everything from.

Cant help on the brake lines as I took the best of what I had between the 2 trucks to use.

I am thinking JBGY gets the lines from 1 of 2 places, Inline Tube or Classic Tube. I did use one of them on my AMC Javelin but I don't remember who's, many years ago.

I did replace the rubber hoses, wheel cly., and calipers, lines were drained.

I don't think my master, master & booster from rolled over parts truck, was that bad but it did have some mudd in the bottom.

I cleaned it out the best I could before bleeding the system. I first used a vacuum bleeder that uses shop air and pulled some dirty fluid first.

I still had a low pedal and only pedal bleed did the trick.

That is when I found the master & booster were not 100% good so I will need to replace them before truck is on the road. You would think if the truck was being used they would have been good?

Dave ----

[Steve83]

I'm pretty sure my 34 year old master cylinder (and probably 34 year old brake fluid) was well beyond it's best before date! That is some filthy grunge right there.

Before I go to crazy ordering all new brake system parts, has anybody installed the pre-made brake line kits from Bronco Graveyard?

Has anybody installed their aftermarket proportioning valve kit (and used the suggested bleeder tool?)

I'm replacing the entire braking system, so I'm just making a list of where to order everything from.

The fluid is that bad because it never got changed. Each time the brakes are serviced (or every ~3~5 years), the reservoir should be emptied (by squeeze bulb) and the fluid replaced with new. That will eventually work its way down to the wheel cylinders, keeping their fluid relatively fresh, without the risks of draining/flushing.

Before I go to crazy ordering all new brake system parts...

The '87-up (Aluminum) master cylinder & integral residual-pressure valve is a direct replacement for that cast Iron MC & remote proportioning valve. The '87-up booster is a direct replacement for that booster, and it's an inch or so thinner. So you could upgrade straight to the newer parts, and avoid some of the problems & limitations of the older system. If you get a '94-96 cruise MC (with the black SCCDS in the port at the front), you can add the electronic cruise servo later.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/895333/thumbnail/mastercyl9496.jpg

https://supermotors.net/getfile/280795/thumbnail/brake-booster-cutaway.jpg

https://supermotors.net/getfile/1033824/thumbnail/sccdss.jpg

[Rembrant]

The fluid is that bad because it never got changed. Each time the brakes are serviced (or every ~3~5 years), the reservoir should be emptied (by squeeze bulb) and the fluid replaced with new. That will eventually work its way down to the wheel cylinders, keeping their fluid relatively fresh, without the risks of draining/flushing.

The '87-up (Aluminum) master cylinder & integral residual-pressure valve is a direct replacement for that cast Iron MC & remote proportioning valve. The '87-up booster is a direct replacement for that booster, and it's an inch or so thinner. So you could upgrade straight to the newer parts, and avoid some of the problems & limitations of the older system. If you get a '94-96 cruise MC (with the black SCCDS in the port at the front), you can add the electronic cruise servo later.

Well, it is a 35 year old truck with less than 40k original miles on it, so it really never did see much in the way of service, because it was rarely used.

Interesting on the later master cylinder...hmmm.

I'm replacing the booster as well. So I would just order a booster for an '84, and a master for an '87, and they'll bolt together just fine with no further adjustments required?

And I wouldn't need to buy the external proportioning valve?

Is there a tee somewhere for the front brakes? There is only one port on the master for both front calipers, right?

I am also wanting to order a complete brake line kit. I wonder if I installed a 1987 master, could I also get away with ordering a 1987 full brake line kit? The calipers and drums would be the same between my 84 and an 87?...or at least the flex lines, etc would be the same...

I must go do some reading...

I was wanting to use original-ish stuff, but if this saved some money, then I'd be interested...

 

[Gary Lewis]

The fluid is that bad because it never got changed. Each time the brakes are serviced (or every ~3~5 years), the reservoir should be emptied (by squeeze bulb) and the fluid replaced with new. That will eventually work its way down to the wheel cylinders, keeping their fluid relatively fresh, without the risks of draining/flushing.

The '87-up (Aluminum) master cylinder & integral residual-pressure valve is a direct replacement for that cast Iron MC & remote proportioning valve. The '87-up booster is a direct replacement for that booster, and it's an inch or so thinner. So you could upgrade straight to the newer parts, and avoid some of the problems & limitations of the older system. If you get a '94-96 cruise MC (with the black SCCDS in the port at the front), you can add the electronic cruise servo later.

Well, it is a 35 year old truck with less than 40k original miles on it, so it really never did see much in the way of service, because it was rarely used.

Interesting on the later master cylinder...hmmm.

I'm replacing the booster as well. So I would just order a booster for an '84, and a master for an '87, and they'll bolt together just fine with no further adjustments required?

And I wouldn't need to buy the external proportioning valve?

Is there a tee somewhere for the front brakes? There is only one port on the master for both front calipers, right?

I am also wanting to order a complete brake line kit. I wonder if I installed a 1987 master, could I also get away with ordering a 1987 full brake line kit? The calipers and drums would be the same between my 84 and an 87?...or at least the flex lines, etc would be the same...

I must go do some reading...

I was wanting to use original-ish stuff, but if this saved some money, then I'd be interested...

I agree with Steve - go with the later stuff. And, there should be two ports on the master, although if I remember correctly the lines are reversed? Anyway, that's the way I'm going to go.

But, on the lines, do not go to Inline Tube. I did, and will not do so again. The lines do not fit properly and every line had to be re-bent. And, the first line they sent for the left rear had the wrong fitting on it so it wouldn't even screw in. They made a new one and sent it out, and after re-bending it I got it to fit.

I called them and asked why the lines don't fit. The guy said "We are basically a GM shop and don't do many Fords. And there are so many different variations on the Ford's we can't get them right." Variations? There's a 9" and an 8.8" in the F100's or F150's. That's variations?

Anyway, I can't recommend them.

[Steve83]

So I would just order a booster for an '84, and a master for an '87...?

You COULD do that, and it would work fine. But the '87-96 booster is thinner & interchangeable. There is no appreciable improvement in booster performance, though. It's just easier to find, more-modern, and smaller/lighter.

...they'll bolt together just fine with no further adjustments required?

Yes; any '80-96 F150 /Bronco MC will work with any '80-96 F150 /Bronco booster.

And I wouldn't need to buy the external proportioning valve?

Not with the later RPV, but you WOULD have to change the front 3 brake lines.

Is there a tee somewhere for the front brakes?

At the LHF flex hose, for most '87-96 F150s. But for some years & applications, there's a T-block on the frame.

...a 1987 full brake line kit?

Not "full" - you only need to change the front 3 sections (LHF, RHF, & forward section of the rear line) from the proportioning-valve configuration to the RPV (Aluminum MC) configuration. '87 would work, but so would any other year up to '96. Just pick ONE. I'd either shop around, and see what year is most-common, most-available, and most-affordable; or I'd browse the JYs for whatever configuration was used on '96 F150s (probably '94-96), and get a good used set (from any number of donor trucks, as long as the lines matched).

Do not get any hard lines from a '93-96 Bronco. But you can get MC, booster, flexible hoses, calipers (IF they fit your steering knuckles), drums, & e-brake cables from any '80-96 1/2-ton Ford truck.

The calipers and drums would be the same between my 84 and an 87?

Probably not, but I'm not sure what year they changed from the bolted spring key...

https://supermotors.net/getfile/169281/thumbnail/brakekeysbolts.jpg

...to the rubber-filled stainless key:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/72043/thumbnail/b20.jpg

I'm also NOT sure if the rubber-keyed caliper will fit the bolted-key steering knuckle, so you need to check that before buying "wrong" calipers.

...or at least the flex lines, etc would be the same.

Not necessarily, depending on year & options. Just pick one year, (or style) and make sure the 3 front lines you get match each other (fit together), and you get the LHF hose that matches those lines. It's easiest if you find a good JY donor, and get the front lines off 1 truck. The rear-rear line can be an '80-86 of your truck's wheelbase; you don't want to add RABS or that valve on the frame, so just use the older rear-rear line.

I was wanting to use original-ish stuff...

You get no points for that - it just makes parts harder to find, less-reliable, and less-engineered. There are MANY reasons Ford improved these parts over the years, so keeping the old tech won't give you a good daily-driver or work truck. It only gives you a museum piece (something to be parked & showed, but no one gawks at an '80s F150).

...if this saved some money...

It won't necessarily save money RIGHT NOW, but it will pay off in the long run; in lower maintenance & more reliability.

[Gary Lewis]

So I would just order a booster for an '84, and a master for an '87...?

You COULD do that, and it would work fine. But the '87-96 booster is thinner & interchangeable. There is no appreciable improvement in booster performance, though. It's just easier to find, more-modern, and smaller/lighter.

...they'll bolt together just fine with no further adjustments required?

Yes; any '80-96 F150 /Bronco MC will work with any '80-96 F150 /Bronco booster.

And I wouldn't need to buy the external proportioning valve?

Not with the later RPV, but you WOULD have to change the front 3 brake lines.

Is there a tee somewhere for the front brakes?

At the LHF flex hose, for most '87-96 F150s. But for some years & applications, there's a T-block on the frame.

...a 1987 full brake line kit?

Not "full" - you only need to change the front 3 sections (LHF, RHF, & forward section of the rear line) from the proportioning-valve configuration to the RPV (Aluminum MC) configuration. '87 would work, but so would any other year up to '96. Just pick ONE. I'd either shop around, and see what year is most-common, most-available, and most-affordable; or I'd browse the JYs for whatever configuration was used on '96 F150s (probably '94-96), and get a good used set (from any number of donor trucks, as long as the lines matched).

Do not get any hard lines from a '93-96 Bronco. But you can get MC, booster, flexible hoses, calipers (IF they fit your steering knuckles), drums, & e-brake cables from any '80-96 1/2-ton Ford truck.

The calipers and drums would be the same between my 84 and an 87?

Probably not, but I'm not sure what year they changed from the bolted spring key...

https://supermotors.net/getfile/169281/thumbnail/brakekeysbolts.jpg

...to the rubber-filled stainless key:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/72043/thumbnail/b20.jpg

I'm also NOT sure if the rubber-keyed caliper will fit the bolted-key steering knuckle, so you need to check that before buying "wrong" calipers.

...or at least the flex lines, etc would be the same.

Not necessarily, depending on year & options. Just pick one year, (or style) and make sure the 3 front lines you get match each other (fit together), and you get the LHF hose that matches those lines. It's easiest if you find a good JY donor, and get the front lines off 1 truck. The rear-rear line can be an '80-86 of your truck's wheelbase; you don't want to add RABS or that valve on the frame, so just use the older rear-rear line.

I was wanting to use original-ish stuff...

You get no points for that - it just makes parts harder to find, less-reliable, and less-engineered. There are MANY reasons Ford improved these parts over the years, so keeping the old tech won't give you a good daily-driver or work truck. It only gives you a museum piece (something to be parked & showed, but no one gawks at an '80s F150).

...if this saved some money...

It won't necessarily save money RIGHT NOW, but it will pay off in the long run; in lower maintenance & more reliability.

Steve - That's really good to know. So changing the three lines then lets the later master bolt right in w/o any magic of reversing the lines and using an adapter. Cool!

But I got lost about the left front hose. Does it need to be changed?

[Ferdinand]

I agree with Steve - go with the later stuff. And, there should be two ports on the master, although if I remember correctly the lines are reversed? Anyway, that's the way I'm going to go.

But, on the lines, do not go to Inline Tube. I did, and will not do so again. The lines do not fit properly and every line had to be re-bent. And, the first line they sent for the left rear had the wrong fitting on it so it wouldn't even screw in. They made a new one and sent it out, and after re-bending it I got it to fit.

I called them and asked why the lines don't fit. The guy said "We are basically a GM shop and don't do many Fords. And there are so many different variations on the Ford's we can't get them right." Variations? There's a 9" and an 8.8" in the F100's or F150's. That's variations?

Anyway, I can't recommend them.

For what its worth, I replaced most all of my brake lines and took my time fashioned mild wire templates then using a few different benders they came out great. I also used the stone guard sleeves. (They look like a spring coiled around your lines)

Anyway, at least this way you get them exactly the way you want them with the right fittings and you can custom route them if you feel you see a better path.

I bought a pre-bent line set for my transmission from LMC and it went about as well as Gary's experience.