delco1946 Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 Not true about" any" polisher, or I would have said that. You just bought the wrong piece of equipment. You probably also didn't get the best material to use. If you are serious, I will lay it out for you. Let me know. Hey All, fast forward to today. There's been enough panel damage after the ice storm that the local repair shop will be touching ~50% of the cab. I found a NOS hood and right fender. Not sure what they'll recommend for the roof but this is the time to clean up/repair the drip rails too. The left fender could be repaired if I want - or replaced with a new one (haven't decided yet). This is the point at which I think it makes sense to repaint the whole front end. I want to match the original paint codes. What info do I need to give to the shop to make this happen? I don't want them to match the existing paint which has faded and oxidized, but rather I want them to recreate the original paint. Also, should they do this as a single stage paint or is there a better technology that i should ask them to switch too (such as clear coat)? I assume they need more than 5G and 9A, but what more exactly, I do not know.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Hey All, fast forward to today. There's been enough panel damage after the ice storm that the local repair shop will be touching ~50% of the cab. I found a NOS hood and right fender. Not sure what they'll recommend for the roof but this is the time to clean up/repair the drip rails too. The left fender could be repaired if I want - or replaced with a new one (haven't decided yet). This is the point at which I think it makes sense to repaint the whole front end. I want to match the original paint codes. What info do I need to give to the shop to make this happen? I don't want them to match the existing paint which has faded and oxidized, but rather I want them to recreate the original paint. Also, should they do this as a single stage paint or is there a better technology that i should ask them to switch too (such as clear coat)? I assume they need more than 5G and 9A, but what more exactly, I do not know.... They don't need anything more than the manufacture date and the paint codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 They don't need anything more than the manufacture date and the paint codes. at least something is easy haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 at least something is easy haha Is there a way to confirm exterior color and tape color? my paint codes off the door pillar are 5G and 9A. When I go to the documentation for an 1981 (80/85), 5G = Dark Caramel Metallic. However per the literature located here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-exterior-color-selections.html 5G = Medium Caramel Metallic. Is there a way to confirm which name is correct to make sure the paint shop has an easier job? Similarly, how do I know my tape color? The vin decoder on here shows a 'tape' section at the bottom. I do not have such a section. I also have some additional numbers in the lower corner that I have yet to find the meaning of. (6 and 7) Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 Is there a way to confirm exterior color and tape color? my paint codes off the door pillar are 5G and 9A. When I go to the documentation for an 1981 (80/85), 5G = Dark Caramel Metallic. However per the literature located here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-exterior-color-selections.html 5G = Medium Caramel Metallic. Is there a way to confirm which name is correct to make sure the paint shop has an easier job? Similarly, how do I know my tape color? The vin decoder on here shows a 'tape' section at the bottom. I do not have such a section. I also have some additional numbers in the lower corner that I have yet to find the meaning of. (6 and 7) Any ideas? Also if relevant: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Is there a way to confirm exterior color and tape color? my paint codes off the door pillar are 5G and 9A. When I go to the documentation for an 1981 (80/85), 5G = Dark Caramel Metallic. However per the literature located here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-exterior-color-selections.html 5G = Medium Caramel Metallic. Is there a way to confirm which name is correct to make sure the paint shop has an easier job? Similarly, how do I know my tape color? The vin decoder on here shows a 'tape' section at the bottom. I do not have such a section. I also have some additional numbers in the lower corner that I have yet to find the meaning of. (6 and 7) Any ideas? I would use the numeric paint code instead of the name. That's because Ford wasn't too consistent with their naming. Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes. The 6 and 7 are spring codes: Documentation/Specifications/Spring Codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 I would use the numeric paint code instead of the name. That's because Ford wasn't too consistent with their naming. Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes. The 6 and 7 are spring codes: Documentation/Specifications/Spring Codes. Ok. I may ask for them to mix up a small amount first (which they actually would probably do anyway i'm guessing). Part of me is thinking of adding a bit more metallic flake to to make her razzle dazzle a bit more in the bright sunlight:nabble_anim_claps: ha Also, I thought I once read on here about a spray rust preventative but can't find it now. The shop will be using POR15 on areas they can access but they weren't planning, nor were they aware of a product, to spray into crevices. I am specifically concerned with the areas in-between the outer cab wall and the inner cab wall. Isn't there a product that one could spray with a nozzle (admittedly indiscriminately) until its dripping out the bottom that if/when it hits rust it would react with it while leaving the paint intact? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 I would use the numeric paint code instead of the name. That's because Ford wasn't too consistent with their naming. Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes. The 6 and 7 are spring codes: Documentation/Specifications/Spring Codes. To complicate matters I do have a 1981 color chart. Ignoring names and numbers, my paint most nearly resembles 8R - BRT Caramel Iridescent. However, not sure who makes fords charts but mine is R-M auto products. Inmont Corp (not Ford proper) No matter how i rotate it, it comes up sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 I would use the numeric paint code instead of the name. That's because Ford wasn't too consistent with their naming. Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes. The 6 and 7 are spring codes: Documentation/Specifications/Spring Codes. To complicate matters I do have a 1981 color chart. Ignoring names and numbers, my paint most nearly resembles 8R - BRT Caramel Iridescent. However, not sure who makes fords charts but mine is R-M auto products. Inmont Corp (not Ford proper) No matter how i rotate it, it comes up sideways That's kind of hard to read, so here 'tis with a couple of changes. Anyway, if you use the # from Ford's paint chart, 5757 if I remember correctly, then the supplier ought to be able to mix it to factory specs. However, that won't match what it is now as it will have changed. So if you want what it is now they they'll have to scan it and mix to match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 That's kind of hard to read, so here 'tis with a couple of changes. Anyway, if you use the # from Ford's paint chart, 5757 if I remember correctly, then the supplier ought to be able to mix it to factory specs. However, that won't match what it is now as it will have changed. So if you want what it is now they they'll have to scan it and mix to match. This is the order i go in. 3M rubbing compound with a buffer with a mild cutting pad, the 3M compound will get just about all of the oxidation off of the truck In some instances you could wet sand with 1500 grit sand paper, but being this is metallic paint you have to be careful. I have had decent results bring back metallic paint. I would only attempt to wet sand if the 3M rubbing compound fails, but at this point if the 3m cant bring it up, do 1 more time with a minimal cut pad. It should bring up a decent reflection. At this point, you want to polish with a minimal cut pad. Once done polishing go back over everything with swirl and scratch remover and do not buff this off, take it off by hand, then wax the truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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