Best tool? My lift!

[Gary Lewis]

I was once asked what the best tool is that I've purchased, and my answer was my lift. It has transformed the work that I do.

One instance of that is changing halfshafts on the Subaru. The first one I did was prior to getting the lift, and it took me half a day to find a way to get enough leverage to pull the upper ball joint out. But when the time came to do it again I had the lift, and the ability to pull down on the pry bar with all of my weight made the job easy.

Another is changing transmissions. The ZF5 is a tall beast, and I doubt you could get the truck high enough on jack stands to get it under. But on the lift it'll go under while on a transmission jack.

As for what kind of lift, mine is a $2000 Chinese unit, and it has worked well for several years. But the key is that it is a 2-post lift. I originally thought I wanted a 4-post lift, but then realized that they limit you significantly on suspension work, and the access to the vehicle is dramatically reduced. And, the 2-post is cheaper!

[ctubutis]

The best tool IMO depends on what I'm doing; right now I'm kinda destroying the house as I rearrange things, a SawsAll is real convenient for this. :)

[Gary Lewis]

I'll bet you are using a corded one. My son got me a Ridgid battery

operated one, but it didn't work too well as the batteries weren't up to

the task. Turns out there are Ridgid batteries and then there are

Ridgid BATTERIES. I had 1.5 amp/hour batteries but bought a set of tools with 4

a/hr batteries. All the difference in the world!

 

[CountryBumkin]

The best tool IMO depends on what I'm doing; right now I'm kinda destroying the house as I rearrange things, a SawsAll is real convenient for this. :)

I have been planning to build a new detached garage that will fit my truck, tractor, and provide workshop space, for some time now.

A lift is on the short list. How much ceiling height is needed to lift a Bullnose high enough to stand under it? I know I need 8 foot garage door openings (for my lifted truck). I'm thinking 10 foot ceilings would be good.

Also, I believe you have a four post lift. That is what I was considering for ease of access (easy to drive on).

The last shop I worked at at 4 post and 2 post lifts. Most of us headed for the 4 post for oil changes and such, whereas the 2 post was the choice if suspension or brake work was being done.

My brother has a repair shop in NJ, he says he hates the 4 post lift because the rails are always in the way and a 2-post can do everything a 4 post can but not vise-versa. So now I'm rethinking my position.

What's you opinion on this.

[Gary Lewis]

I have been planning to build a new detached garage that will fit my truck, tractor, and provide workshop space, for some time now.

A lift is on the short list. How much ceiling height is needed to lift a Bullnose high enough to stand under it? I know I need 8 foot garage door openings (for my lifted truck). I'm thinking 10 foot ceilings would be good.

Also, I believe you have a four post lift. That is what I was considering for ease of access (easy to drive on).

The last shop I worked at at 4 post and 2 post lifts. Most of us headed for the 4 post for oil changes and such, whereas the 2 post was the choice if suspension or brake work was being done.

My brother has a repair shop in NJ, he says he hates the 4 post lift because the rails are always in the way and a 2-post can do everything a 4 post can but not vise-versa. So now I'm rethinking my position.

What's you opinion on this.

Mine is a 2-post, and I agree that a 2 can do everything a 4 can, with few exceptions. I originally thought I wanted a 4, but am so glad I got a 2 as the ramps would be in the way for almost everything. The one advantage I see for a 4-post lift is the ease of getting the vehicle on. But positioning the arms is really pretty easy when you get used to it.

As for ceiling height, I think you are in for a surprise. My ceiling is 12' high, and it is just barely enough. My lift has holes for two positions and with it in the lower position the top of the lift almost touches the ceiling. And that just raises a tall Bullnose high enough to work under, but not quite as much as I'd like. And the biggest problem is when trying to swap transmissions as a ZF5 will only go under in certain spots on my tranny jack. In fact, Chris has recently complained about the lack of height - and he's only been here a few times. 😳

So, what I'm about to do is to "raise the ceiling". I positioned the lift between the 2x12 ceiling joists when I installed it, so I'm going to cut the sheetrock away and dig out the insulation directly above the lift. Then, at the GTG, some of my friends are going to help raise the top bar and re-bolt it. That will raise it 11" and, by my calc's, that'll be all I want as it will allow me to walk under the arms, not just the vehicle. And a secondary benefit will be that I can put blocks between the top of the lift and the ceiling joists, which will prevent the lift from moving at all.

If I had to do it over again I'd have a 13' ceiling. Having a 12' ceiling and having the lift set at 13' will work, but I'll have to ensure the hood of a truck isn't up or it will hit the ceiling. (I'm going to use a set of garage door safety lights/receivers I have to stop the lift before a hood hits.)

[CountryBumkin]

Mine is a 2-post, and I agree that a 2 can do everything a 4 can, with few exceptions. I originally thought I wanted a 4, but am so glad I got a 2 as the ramps would be in the way for almost everything. The one advantage I see for a 4-post lift is the ease of getting the vehicle on. But positioning the arms is really pretty easy when you get used to it.

As for ceiling height, I think you are in for a surprise. My ceiling is 12' high, and it is just barely enough. My lift has holes for two positions and with it in the lower position the top of the lift almost touches the ceiling. And that just raises a tall Bullnose high enough to work under, but not quite as much as I'd like. And the biggest problem is when trying to swap transmissions as a ZF5 will only go under in certain spots on my tranny jack. In fact, Chris has recently complained about the lack of height - and he's only been here a few times. 😳

So, what I'm about to do is to "raise the ceiling". I positioned the lift between the 2x12 ceiling joists when I installed it, so I'm going to cut the sheetrock away and dig out the insulation directly above the lift. Then, at the GTG, some of my friends are going to help raise the top bar and re-bolt it. That will raise it 11" and, by my calc's, that'll be all I want as it will allow me to walk under the arms, not just the vehicle. And a secondary benefit will be that I can put blocks between the top of the lift and the ceiling joists, which will prevent the lift from moving at all.

If I had to do it over again I'd have a 13' ceiling. Having a 12' ceiling and having the lift set at 13' will work, but I'll have to ensure the hood of a truck isn't up or it will hit the ceiling. (I'm going to use a set of garage door safety lights/receivers I have to stop the lift before a hood hits.)

I'm glad I asked. So 13 foot minimum - maybe 14 for a little extra margin.

I'm looking at 3-bay garage plans, and they all have standard ceiling heights (lifts not considered) so, I need to be sure to modify whatever plan I end using.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm glad I asked. So 13 foot minimum - maybe 14 for a little extra margin.

I'm looking at 3-bay garage plans, and they all have standard ceiling heights (lifts not considered) so, I need to be sure to modify whatever plan I end using.

I would say 12' is absolute minimum, 13' is better, and 14' might be overkill.

[85lebaront2]

I would say 12' is absolute minimum, 13' is better, and 14' might be overkill.

Since the center of my garage is 18' high, I plan on a nice 9 or 10K twin post lift without the top bar. Floor was poured with a pair of 2' square X 1' deep areas in the 3000 psi concrete floor. Lift will go high enough to walk under Darth.

[Gary Lewis]

Since the center of my garage is 18' high, I plan on a nice 9 or 10K twin post lift without the top bar. Floor was poured with a pair of 2' square X 1' deep areas in the 3000 psi concrete floor. Lift will go high enough to walk under Darth.

Mine is a 9k and it is all the lift I need.

One of the things I haven't mentioned with regard to the need for height is the issue with tall trucks. If the max height is 10' and the top of a tall F250HD or F350 is already at 6', and Big Blue is there, going up 4' just doesn't make it fun to work underneath. Yes, the rocker panel may be at 2'+4'=6', but the arms of the lift will be at 4' and getting under is a pain. Even a 12' ceiling isn't quite high enough as the lift's arms are still low enough you have to stoop to get under - and believe me they do NOT move when there's a 6500 lb truck sitting on them and you forget to duck.

[FuzzFace2]

Mine is a 9k and it is all the lift I need.

One of the things I haven't mentioned with regard to the need for height is the issue with tall trucks. If the max height is 10' and the top of a tall F250HD or F350 is already at 6', and Big Blue is there, going up 4' just doesn't make it fun to work underneath. Yes, the rocker panel may be at 2'+4'=6', but the arms of the lift will be at 4' and getting under is a pain. Even a 12' ceiling isn't quite high enough as the lift's arms are still low enough you have to stoop to get under - and believe me they do NOT move when there's a 6500 lb truck sitting on them and you forget to duck.

When the wife & I were looking for houses & garages (for me) I was looking if I could install a lift.

1 place did have a "me" garage with lift but we did not like the house or land it was on so garage was out.

The house we did buy has a nice "me" garage but cant install any type of lift because of the height and that is ok as I have not needed one yet and I have a nice smooth floor the jack and wheel dollies roll on.

Now I was thinking if I want a lift it would be a 4 post. I could pour a concrete pad outside one of the bay doors, see where this is going? This lift would have wheels and I could push it out side to use it, when done push it back inside.

A lot of shops down here have lifts out side only down side is I have no shade where it would be in front of the bay and it gets too damn hot even to work in the garage.

Some 4 posts have extras 1 being a try to put a jack on so if you need to remove a wheel(s) you can or drip pan so you can part another car under the car on the lift.

Dave ----