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Lugging at speed/No power at WOT


ratdude747

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Not so fast...

Idle was rough again this morning... stalled on me driving to work. Reset the fuel mix to 1.5 turns past bottom out, and it won't idle at all (stalls within 10 seconds).

Unless there's a better suggestion, I'll swap the feedback solenoids back over lunch break. Good thing I kept the part and tool in the truck...

Yep, I'd swap back. But, I didn't think the feedback made much difference at idle, so it may not help. However, it was the last thing changed so needs to be the first thing put back.

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Yep, I'd swap back. But, I didn't think the feedback made much difference at idle, so it may not help. However, it was the last thing changed so needs to be the first thing put back.

Gary, the feedback system affects both idle and main, it works on the air bleeds of both systems. The other thing, if it is bad, the system may be going into limp mode.

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Yep, I'd swap back. But, I didn't think the feedback made much difference at idle, so it may not help. However, it was the last thing changed so needs to be the first thing put back.

Swapped... still no idle.

Ended up having to go 3.5 turns or so past bottom on the idle fuel to make it stable/smooth. Granted, that was on a cold engine though. Perhaps that's a symptom?

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Swapped... still no idle.

Ended up having to go 3.5 turns or so past bottom on the idle fuel to make it stable/smooth. Granted, that was on a cold engine though. Perhaps that's a symptom?

Make sure that there are no air leaks at the carburetor and EGR spacer. Pull the vacuum hose off the EGR valve, if it goes rich when you do that, you have a vacuum valve leaking or something is plumbed wrong in the vacuum hoses. If it makes no difference, with it idling carefully (use a wet rag) check the valve and tube near the valve, if they are real hot, exhaust gas hot, then the valve is leaking or stuck partially open. This will make it exceedingly lean. If yours does not have the external EGR tube, then the gasket between the adapter and intake may be bad.

Ford actually used to recommend cleaning them of carbon deposits periodically due to wanting to stick partially open.

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Make sure that there are no air leaks at the carburetor and EGR spacer. Pull the vacuum hose off the EGR valve, if it goes rich when you do that, you have a vacuum valve leaking or something is plumbed wrong in the vacuum hoses. If it makes no difference, with it idling carefully (use a wet rag) check the valve and tube near the valve, if they are real hot, exhaust gas hot, then the valve is leaking or stuck partially open. This will make it exceedingly lean. If yours does not have the external EGR tube, then the gasket between the adapter and intake may be bad.

Ford actually used to recommend cleaning them of carbon deposits periodically due to wanting to stick partially open.

Redid the adjustment when warm (after work), ended up pulling all but 3/4 turn out (at 2 1/4 turn from bottom).

EGR valve was recently replaced (old one leaking vacuum).\

checked the tranny fluid level, was very low... looked underneath, leaking quite a bit of fluid. Grabbed 3 gallons of fluid on my way home, in the middle of a fluid/filter change (had a gasket and filter kit sitting).

gasket is very old and probably original; the plastic dipstick plug was still in there! Based on the fluid condition, I'm thinking it was flushed sometime in the last decade... just no filter change.

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Make sure that there are no air leaks at the carburetor and EGR spacer. Pull the vacuum hose off the EGR valve, if it goes rich when you do that, you have a vacuum valve leaking or something is plumbed wrong in the vacuum hoses. If it makes no difference, with it idling carefully (use a wet rag) check the valve and tube near the valve, if they are real hot, exhaust gas hot, then the valve is leaking or stuck partially open. This will make it exceedingly lean. If yours does not have the external EGR tube, then the gasket between the adapter and intake may be bad.

Ford actually used to recommend cleaning them of carbon deposits periodically due to wanting to stick partially open.

No change... but the EGR valve isn't getting vacuum to open either. Plumbing is good (colors backwards from chart, but the connections are right)... but only ~1VDC across the control solenoid.

This is a connector I repaired when the engine was out... I'll recheck the wiring, but I'm pretty sure all is well. If there isn't a wiring issue at the connector repair splice, any good reason why it wouldn't be calling for EGR at idle?

 

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No change... but the EGR valve isn't getting vacuum to open either. Plumbing is good (colors backwards from chart, but the connections are right)... but only ~1VDC across the control solenoid.

This is a connector I repaired when the engine was out... I'll recheck the wiring, but I'm pretty sure all is well. If there isn't a wiring issue at the connector repair splice, any good reason why it wouldn't be calling for EGR at idle?

There should never be EGR at idle or when cold.

Only under 'cruise' conditions.

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