Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

[Gary Lewis]

Bearings are in... clearancing at about 18 tenths. Just barely outside of "desired", but I'll take it, and am building the engine. The rods also clearanced around 18 tenths, so I think it will be OK.

Will post pics later... when I'm done with the dinner break I'm on, back to work. My goal is to have it dry-oil ready by tonight, but I dunno. Hopefully tomorrow isn't a long day at work.

---

My computer stuff is documented on this forum:

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/index.php

Unfortunately the admin/owner (a buddy of mine, the guy who builds z-cars) has the pictures locked to members only (free), but anything worth mentioning I've done pictorials of similar to what you've seen me post here.

That's pretty much where I thought the clearances would come in. Much better to be on the edge of desirable than on the outside edge of acceptable.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bearings are coming today... and I'm off work again. My plant isn't restarting until next week at 50% capacity, and nobody else had anything to do, so I was booted midday yesterday and given today off. I will be in tomorrow and Friday to start test-running equipment (all the stuff I wasn't upgrading the past two weeks). Anyway...

In the mean time, I've been doing more cleaning and painting.

Was not able to get a brayer locally but my wife took a stab at hand painting it:

It's as good as it will get... I tried sponge brushes and some homeade contraptions, none worked.

Painted some more stuff too.

Timing indicator:

Not perfect, maybe I'll wet sand it a bit to take the haze off. I used a wipe-off technique here, which I've used on a crapload of bicycle parts over the years (thanks, Dad!). The marks were shallow, and the primer and topcoat made it worse, which is why it turned out out terrible... I tried?

Alternator bracket:

Turned out nice. Nothing much to say here.

Coil and Air Injection valve brackets:

Yeah my garage is a mess... and I am a geek. But that's for a different forum

I also cleaned the cosmolene off the new water pump and painted it too:

The paint is still drying, so I haven't de-masked it yet.

Yay or nay on the paint?

I think you and your wife did a great job getting all the 'tin' back into great shape!

Making good use of that engine hoist too.

Can remember having the guys over for race day (Moto GP) and saying how excited I was about my new NAS.

They thought I'd installed Nitrous on the truck.

Agree with Gary. You are much better off than starting sloppy.

[ratdude747]

I think you and your wife did a great job getting all the 'tin' back into great shape!

Making good use of that engine hoist too.

Can remember having the guys over for race day (Moto GP) and saying how excited I was about my new NAS.

They thought I'd installed Nitrous on the truck.

Agree with Gary. You are much better off than starting sloppy.

Calling it a night. I think I got decently far:

Tomorrow after work I'll fill and install the filter, add some oil (the full 5 quarts?), and pre-oil it (oil pump drive in a socket on a drill). The valve cover is only sitting there to keep dust and bugs out of the valvetrain (which is fully assembled); I'll pull it to make sure oil is making it up to the rocker arms.

[grumpin]

Calling it a night. I think I got decently far:

Tomorrow after work I'll fill and install the filter, add some oil (the full 5 quarts?), and pre-oil it (oil pump drive in a socket on a drill). The valve cover is only sitting there to keep dust and bugs out of the valvetrain (which is fully assembled); I'll pull it to make sure oil is making it up to the rocker arms.

Nice! Good job.

[ratdude747]

Nice! Good job.

Question: Did I mess up by buying my usual oil (Pennsoil Platinum 5W30) for break in? I know this is a question that has a million different answers/opinions, but I really don't want to screw the pooch here.

Notes:

1. I haven't added any oil yet, other than a bit used for installing things (maybe 1/4 quart?).

2. The cam and valvetrain is unchanged... everything installed exactly where it came from.

[Gary Lewis]

Calling it a night. I think I got decently far:

Tomorrow after work I'll fill and install the filter, add some oil (the full 5 quarts?), and pre-oil it (oil pump drive in a socket on a drill). The valve cover is only sitting there to keep dust and bugs out of the valvetrain (which is fully assembled); I'll pull it to make sure oil is making it up to the rocker arms.

Looks great!!!!

As for the oil, Pennzoil isn't my favorite. Scotty told me to use something like Brad Penn Break-In Oil if I remember correctly. I need to nail that down so will call him today to get a good list.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Question: Did I mess up by buying my usual oil (Pennsoil Platinum 5W30) for break in? I know this is a question that has a million different answers/opinions, but I really don't want to screw the pooch here.

Notes:

1. I haven't added any oil yet, other than a bit used for installing things (maybe 1/4 quart?).

2. The cam and valvetrain is unchanged... everything installed exactly where it came from.

What did you use for assembly lube?

I usually use Permatex Ultra Slick, but have used straight up STP years ago and it worked fine.

Gary,

Brad Penn is the old Kendall green race oil and full of ZDDP.

That's fine if you have no Cat, but will plate out on the platinum and rhodium before the rings seat if you do have one.

This is one of the very few legitimate uses for a "test pipe"

 

[ratdude747]

What did you use for assembly lube?

I usually use Permatex Ultra Slick, but have used straight up STP years ago and it worked fine.

Gary,

Brad Penn is the old Kendall green race oil and full of ZDDP.

That's fine if you have no Cat, but will plate out on the platinum and rhodium before the rings seat if you do have one.

This is one of the very few legitimate uses for a "test pipe"

This stuff:

https://www.crcindustries.com/products/extreme-pressure-engine-assembly-lube-2-75-wt-oz-SL3333.html

Had most of a tube leftover from a moped build 5 years ago (back when I was a senior in college).

I used it for bearings, cam lobes, and the valvetrain. Bolts, timing gears, and the rings were lubed with Pennsoil Platinum 5W30 (from an oil can, of course). Before I put the oil pan on, I shot several good squirts in the bottom of the pistons to add additional ring lube (felt a shade dry, was a bit worried).

 

[1986F150Six]

This stuff:

https://www.crcindustries.com/products/extreme-pressure-engine-assembly-lube-2-75-wt-oz-SL3333.html

Had most of a tube leftover from a moped build 5 years ago (back when I was a senior in college).

I used it for bearings, cam lobes, and the valvetrain. Bolts, timing gears, and the rings were lubed with Pennsoil Platinum 5W30 (from an oil can, of course). Before I put the oil pan on, I shot several good squirts in the bottom of the pistons to add additional ring lube (felt a shade dry, was a bit worried).

Isn't Pennzoil Platinum a full synthetic? My understanding is that is better to used non-synthetic oil until the rings have seated.

[ratdude747]

Isn't Pennzoil Platinum a full synthetic? My understanding is that is better to used non-synthetic oil until the rings have seated.

Yes... but I have only heard that it's bad from some sources... but not others. And more importanty, I haven't heard why it's bad from anywhere. As far as I know new engines made for new vehicles today have synthetic oil out the door... what that break in oil is, I don't know.

Edit: did some more reading (having to wait on something at work)... apparently the "issue" is that old production methods (including those use by most small engine shops like the one I used) require more break in with new processes, and synthetic oils are too good at their job to allow for such to happen in an efficient manner.

I'll probably see about getting something different... maybe some 10W-30 Rotella if they still make it (used to run it in a Chevy Astro and a Dodge Durango years ago).

At least I caught the issue before I pre-oiled... the bit I added already won't matter, Pennsoil Platinum can mix with regular with no issues.