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Lugging at speed/No power at WOT


ratdude747

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Having issues with installing the new timing cover crank seal.

Old one was in TIGHT... had to partially cut it with a hack saw to allow it to crush and hammer out.

The new one I ordered as an NOS is older than expected... while the baggie has a new-ish dealer sticker, the bag itself is very old with a copyright of 1966 :nabble_smiley_oh_no:. The part is more of a muesem piece than something I want to use.

Luckily, the gasket kit, despite the notes saying it had no crank or valve seals, came with all of the above. However, the timing seal in question is too big... cannot get it to start straight in the hole with a seal driver. Maybe 5-10 thousanths oversized relative to my timing cover bore. Is this normal (and I'm doing something wrong), or do I need to get another seal?

Yes, I did lightly heat the cover with a torch... but not much since I don't want to warp or melt the aluminum.

I wish I knew the answer to your question. But at least you have the seal.

Hopefully someone will come along that knows the answer.

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I wish I knew the answer to your question. But at least you have the seal.

Hopefully someone will come along that knows the answer.

Bought a new seal at autozone. Fit in no problem (still a very tight press fit though!). Seems the one in the kit is out of spec... :(

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Bought a new seal at autozone. Fit in no problem (still a very tight press fit though!). Seems the one in the kit is out of spec... :(

Good! It is bad to have a bad seal 'cause it makes you question everything, but at least you got the problem solved and can move on.

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Good! It is bad to have a bad seal 'cause it makes you question everything, but at least you got the problem solved and can move on.

Got the goods back from the machinist... $325 later, and we're on to paint and assembly.

Paint is complete. I'll post pics later.

Run into an assembly issue: I'm an idiot and bought the wrong plastigauge. Was going to post about my bearings being too tight, but I misread the spec and goofed. Will get the right stuff tomorrow. DOH!!! :nabble_head-slap-23_orig:

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Got the goods back from the machinist... $325 later, and we're on to paint and assembly.

Paint is complete. I'll post pics later.

Run into an assembly issue: I'm an idiot and bought the wrong plastigauge. Was going to post about my bearings being too tight, but I misread the spec and goofed. Will get the right stuff tomorrow. DOH!!! :nabble_head-slap-23_orig:

I love it when a plan comes together! And it is still progress when you take two steps forward and one back. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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I love it when a plan comes together! And it is still progress when you take two steps forward and one back. :nabble_smiley_wink:

At least on #1 (all 7 mains had the same result with the "wrong" plastigauge), it looks like I'm at between 0.0020 and 0.0030 (more towards 0.0020). Out of the desired range (0.0008-0.0015), but within the allowable range (0.0010-0.0028)

Not enough to warrant going down a bearing size, but OK to run? Or do I need to get a re-grind?

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At least on #1 (all 7 mains had the same result with the "wrong" plastigauge), it looks like I'm at between 0.0020 and 0.0030 (more towards 0.0020). Out of the desired range (0.0008-0.0015), but within the allowable range (0.0010-0.0028)

Not enough to warrant going down a bearing size, but OK to run? Or do I need to get a re-grind?

You're rebuilding your engine now.

Do you really want to start with your clearance at more than double the desirable starting clearance?

You may have another 8/10, but that's less than half the allowable wear.

Replacing the mains is another engine out operation.

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At least on #1 (all 7 mains had the same result with the "wrong" plastigauge), it looks like I'm at between 0.0020 and 0.0030 (more towards 0.0020). Out of the desired range (0.0008-0.0015), but within the allowable range (0.0010-0.0028)

Not enough to warrant going down a bearing size, but OK to run? Or do I need to get a re-grind?

Man, that's a good question.

Remind me, this is a re-bored engine with new pistons, rings, etc?

And what was done to the crank?

I want to have the info in one place before trying to suggest what to do. And I'm sure it'll help the others to reply as well.

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Man, that's a good question.

Remind me, this is a re-bored engine with new pistons, rings, etc?

And what was done to the crank?

I want to have the info in one place before trying to suggest what to do. And I'm sure it'll help the others to reply as well.

Rebored/honed block. Crank was polished and I was told by the machinist that it was "in spec" and to use standard sized bearings. The bearings are NOS ACL's (1994 MFD).

....

Spoke with a buddy who does Z-car restorations as a part time job... he says it should be OK, since it's the mains and not the rods (and it's within the acceptable range).

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Rebored/honed block. Crank was polished and I was told by the machinist that it was "in spec" and to use standard sized bearings. The bearings are NOS ACL's (1994 MFD).

....

Spoke with a buddy who does Z-car restorations as a part time job... he says it should be OK, since it's the mains and not the rods (and it's within the acceptable range).

I would believe that it would be OK. However, I would get an experts opinion and go however they suggested. You do only want to do this once and right the first time around.

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