ratdude747 Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 Having a hard time sourcing a long block... most of the ones in stock are marked "no smog", whatever that means (I do have EGR and AIR, but not cali emissions?). And they go for $1100-$2000 before shipping and core (and a good chunk of the core gets eaten by return shipping?). EDIT: I literally rechecked RockAuto after posting this and finally understood the answer. No SMOG means no exahust port injection holes... which is OK, since I don't have such (my air injection goes between the cats). Rockauto has a "famous brands" long block for just over $1100 before core. Return shipping for the core is also included, so $1100 before shipping $1400 shipped and taxed is the magic number. Looks like they're using a fiber timing gear though... good idea to swap for a steel timing set? I'd prefer to not go for a JY engine... you know what they say about the devil you know. I have two other running vehicles, so the truck being dead isn't an issue. As for machine shop costs, I'll need to get local recommendations and some prices. I won't need a full machine job... AFAIK the heads/block won't need decked, and the block doesn't need line-honed and (pending future measurements) bored. Parts wise, I can get a rebuild kit with pistons, bearings (other than for the cam), gaskets, and oil pump for $250 or so on rockauto. I can save a few bones and get a re-main/re-ring kit and pistons separately (about $225), but considering that I found a giant chunk of gasket in the pump pickup tube (looks like pan gasket, somebody been in here before?), I at least want to probably replace the pump pickup. Bang for buck, I agree, long block is probably the way to go (per the edit above).Did more research... apparently these "low cost" rebuilds (at least the "mashal" ones they used to sell) are hack jobs. Cheap quality internals, mis-matched bores, etc. Ugh. Great for flipper cars with no warranty to the poor idiot who buys it next, but garbage for those who want to keep and drive it for a while. As for the "famous brands" ones, other than being made in mexico, I haven't found any info that wasn't speculation or "it's cheap, try again". I'll ask around on my other forums/facebook groups I'm part of to see if their product is any good. 3 year warranty at least? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 Did more research... apparently these "low cost" rebuilds (at least the "mashal" ones they used to sell) are hack jobs. Cheap quality internals, mis-matched bores, etc. Ugh. Great for flipper cars with no warranty to the poor idiot who buys it next, but garbage for those who want to keep and drive it for a while. As for the "famous brands" ones, other than being made in mexico, I haven't found any info that wasn't speculation or "it's cheap, try again". I'll ask around on my other forums/facebook groups I'm part of to see if their product is any good. 3 year warranty at least? I bought a 460 longblock from Pro-Mar in March of '08 for $1,600 with a THREE year warranty. I've put over 150,000 miles on it and I beat it like a redheaded stepchild. *Every Day* IDK It works for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 I bought a 460 longblock from Pro-Mar in March of '08 for $1,600 with a THREE year warranty. I've put over 150,000 miles on it and I beat it like a redheaded stepchild. *Every Day* IDK It works for me They want $2400 before shipping. Ouch! --- Regarding the copper I saw on the bearings: is it possible that thats left from the engine restore (the stuff with silver, copper, and lead in it, not STP) I was running previously? My oil pressures have always been really good, which makes me skeptical that the bearings are that worn down. I was running 5w30 oil too... Not that it matters, other than for aging the engine (truck has just over 100k on it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 They want $2400 before shipping. Ouch! --- Regarding the copper I saw on the bearings: is it possible that thats left from the engine restore (the stuff with silver, copper, and lead in it, not STP) I was running previously? My oil pressures have always been really good, which makes me skeptical that the bearings are that worn down. I was running 5w30 oil too... Not that it matters, other than for aging the engine (truck has just over 100k on it). Check with a good local auto parts place. Should be no shipping costs and your core return is simplified as well. The two I go to locally are very competitive with the prices you've found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 Check with a good local auto parts place. Should be no shipping costs and your core return is simplified as well. The two I go to locally are very competitive with the prices you've found. https://www.autozone.com/powertrain/engine/surefire-remanufactured-long-block-engine-df74/627117_361847_11266 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/remanufactured-4685/engine-parts---mounts-16774/engine-block-long-12068/3c30a164587f/power-torque-long-block-engine-remanufactured/df74/4669598/1984/ford/f-150?q=engine+block-long&pos=0 Same price, only AZ has a 4 year warranty. Still a bit of a pill to swallow though. Advance has them for $4k... No thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 https://www.autozone.com/powertrain/engine/surefire-remanufactured-long-block-engine-df74/627117_361847_11266 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/remanufactured-4685/engine-parts---mounts-16774/engine-block-long-12068/3c30a164587f/power-torque-long-block-engine-remanufactured/df74/4669598/1984/ford/f-150?q=engine+block-long&pos=0 Same price, only AZ has a 4 year warranty. Still a bit of a pill to swallow though. Advance has them for $4k... No thanks! That's odd as my local advance {formerly Car Quest, still same people though}, was the same price as Auto Zone. I guess it's a geographical difference. Doesn't matter though as you have options available and my opinion is they all are using the same rebuilder as their pictures are identical. With a warranty and knowing they {the rebuilder} are doing a fair volume of rebuilds so they surely have a standard they are maintaining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 That's odd as my local advance {formerly Car Quest, still same people though}, was the same price as Auto Zone. I guess it's a geographical difference. Doesn't matter though as you have options available and my opinion is they all are using the same rebuilder as their pictures are identical. With a warranty and knowing they {the rebuilder} are doing a fair volume of rebuilds so they surely have a standard they are maintaining. I'm an idiot. They don't carry them at all, what I was seeing was a long block (more like full engine) for one of the V8's. Didn't say which, but either way, not what I was looking for. If I had studied the picture closer... DOH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 I'm an idiot. They don't carry them at all, what I was seeing was a long block (more like full engine) for one of the V8's. Didn't say which, but either way, not what I was looking for. If I had studied the picture closer... DOH! Leaning more towards a long block. Mainly, because I suspect this engine is not original and has the wrong cam installed. The Block's casting number is incomplete. It's labeled 1TE-6015-AA... the first (year) digit is missing. It could be a 1981 pattern... or 71, 61, or heck, even 91. The "tag" label was also of no help, all it says is "3L8". The camshaft has no ID marks at all.... other than two 5's about midway down. Nothing stamped on the end. Not a stock cam? All of this makes me wonder what happened here... and why 5 of 6 rings were busted like that. Something doesn't add up. Stupid question: If I replace it, for the core, do I need to torque the fasteners to spec? Or can I just snug them, knowing it will all be torn back down anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Leaning more towards a long block. Mainly, because I suspect this engine is not original and has the wrong cam installed. The Block's casting number is incomplete. It's labeled 1TE-6015-AA... the first (year) digit is missing. It could be a 1981 pattern... or 71, 61, or heck, even 91. The "tag" label was also of no help, all it says is "3L8". The camshaft has no ID marks at all.... other than two 5's about midway down. Nothing stamped on the end. Not a stock cam? All of this makes me wonder what happened here... and why 5 of 6 rings were busted like that. Something doesn't add up. Stupid question: If I replace it, for the core, do I need to torque the fasteners to spec? Or can I just snug them, knowing it will all be torn back down anyway? You could give them core, in a million pieces, in a crate. That's what they're going to do anyway. I suspect your compression rings are shattered because of detonation. Knock or ping under cruise is usually caused by too much advance and or incorrectly curved distributor. Along with the mandated lean mixture. I think the cam gear is the right stuff. Factory (OEM) replacement for a chowdered fiber gear. Ford used plastic and fiber gears to meet federal noise regulations. Nobody goes back with that crap when they wear out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 You could give them core, in a million pieces, in a crate. That's what they're going to do anyway. I suspect your compression rings are shattered because of detonation. Knock or ping under cruise is usually caused by too much advance and or incorrectly curved distributor. Along with the mandated lean mixture. I think the cam gear is the right stuff. Factory (OEM) replacement for a chowdered fiber gear. Ford used plastic and fiber gears to meet federal noise regulations. Nobody goes back with that crap when they wear out. ...except the reman engines, which have fiber gears in the pictures. After all, it's "stock". Same thing for the pistons too. Part of me wants to say **** it and just de-glaze the cylinders, replace the pistons, rings, and bearings (and get the crank polished if I can find somebody who will do such a-la-carte), and clean the rest up. All done for less than $500 if I were to estimate (and that includes non-engine parts I need to replace: water pump, electrical connectors, and choke stove rebuild kit) Yes, in an ideal world, I'd have it hot tanked and the like... but in addition to said cost, would mean pulling apart the heads, which also opens up the cylinder head rebuild rabbit hole (), which leads to the same cost as a reman. Which is money I don't exactly "not have", but money I'd rather spend on other things (alignments for both of my trucks, tires for my bald 1995 ranger, etc.). "while I'm at it" is a contagious disease... it turns minor repairs into overhauls, and simple overhauls into budget busting race builds. I'm trying to avoid said disease while also trying not to half ass stuff. EDIT- other note I forgot to make: when I bought the truck, the ignition was way advanced, and the ECU power lead not connected. That's noted earlier in the thread, but now I know what happened. Somebody was ****ing around with it and went too far. Whoops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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