ArdWrknTrk Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 I agree w/Angelo and Jim - either rebuild it completely or put a used engine in. It isn't a good idea to rebuild part of it. But, it will be less expensive to get a long block, and the odds of success are much higher. If it was top end, there's a good case for putting a fresh head on it. But if it's a cylinder... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 You can get a cellphone endoscope on Amazon for well under $20. % leak down is kinda the whole point of the test. Otherwise it's not giving you any meaningful data. I thought the main point was to figure out where the leakage is leaking at? If you failed a compression test, leakage is a given... the % is nice, but at the end of the day compression is what the system needs to function. I'll look into such endoscopes... I remember them being $100+ tools. Times have changes, obviously. Edit- Found a USB one for $10... winner. Will pair nicely with one of my windows tablets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 I thought the main point was to figure out where the leakage is leaking at? If you failed a compression test, leakage is a given... the % is nice, but at the end of the day compression is what the system needs to function. I'll look into such endoscopes... I remember them being $100+ tools. Times have changes, obviously. Edit- Found a USB one for $10... winner. Will pair nicely with one of my windows tablets. The percent leakage helps you decide what to do. Something like 20% leakage is poor, but not the end of the world. Big Blue's 460 had ~50% leakage on two cylinders, and all of the others were 20% and above. And all were leaking past the rings, into the sump. Toast. The engine is badly worn. In your case, with one cylinder leaking, maybe there's something with that one cylinder that can be changed. Jim is suggesting that the rings may be stuck and if you run the right additive and work the engine hard they might free up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 The percent leakage helps you decide what to do. Something like 20% leakage is poor, but not the end of the world. Big Blue's 460 had ~50% leakage on two cylinders, and all of the others were 20% and above. And all were leaking past the rings, into the sump. Toast. The engine is badly worn. In your case, with one cylinder leaking, maybe there's something with that one cylinder that can be changed. Jim is suggesting that the rings may be stuck and if you run the right additive and work the engine hard they might free up. I get that. Cylinder #1 is the worst, but cylinder 4's compression wasn't much better (but isn't giving me black sooty plugs). Once I have the scope, I'll be able to see what's going on (scored cylinders, etc.). If it looks clean (no scoring or other signs of damage) I might try the "cylinder soak in B-12" routine. Hopefully I didn't mess it up by driving it like that so much. If I did, well, that's on me. My reservation with a JY motor is I might be trading crap for crap. If I had a thrown rod or something condemning my current engine, OK. Since I don't, I feel like I'm not gaining anything for my effort. Why replace a tired engine with another likely tired engine? In that case I probably would be looking a short block (if I can find one) or a long block; I'm not going to go to the effort to swap if I don't know what I'm putting in is any better than what I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 ...Why replace a tired engine with another likely tired engine? In that case I probably would be looking a short block (if I can find one) or a long block; Because, if the engine had done something like thrown a rod, you could be driving for years for $300. Yeah, unless you know the yard you're taking chances, but most places will offer replacement if it doesn't work. Ask Gary. He bought his D60 front end from a guy that does nothing but part out running trucks. If the vehicle was hit & totaled, it was driving when it died. Of all the engines, a Ford I-6 is the last one I'd try to swap an old head into. They're known for warping, and getting fire grooves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 ...Why replace a tired engine with another likely tired engine? In that case I probably would be looking a short block (if I can find one) or a long block; Because, if the engine had done something like thrown a rod, you could be driving for years for $300. Yeah, unless you know the yard you're taking chances, but most places will offer replacement if it doesn't work. Ask Gary. He bought his D60 front end from a guy that does nothing but part out running trucks. If the vehicle was hit & totaled, it was driving when it died. Of all the engines, a Ford I-6 is the last one I'd try to swap an old head into. They're known for warping, and getting fire grooves. My point was more "If I'm going to pull the motor, I'd be better off saving up for a long block and driving it as is until then"... Unless I knew the used motor was in good shape, I don't stand much to gain here. Replacment policies are nice, except I still have to horse around with pulling and re-installing the engine... and return shipping/driving out. The nearest JY has good selection, but I haven't been there in years and my experiences there were not great (I was a noob back then though). My two favorites (Pull-a-part in Louisville and the ISA yard next door) don't have a lot of bullnoses usually... last time I was there, the only period correct 300's I saw were parted out. Not to say they don't have one now. But since they pull the batteries and slash the tanks, no way to easily test for good compression or runability. Noted on the short block situation. Might explain why I'm mostly only finding long blocks (did find somebody selling short blocks, but it nickle and dimes to the cost of a long block ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 I thought the main point was to figure out where the leakage is leaking at? If you failed a compression test, leakage is a given... the % is nice, but at the end of the day compression is what the system needs to function. I'll look into such endoscopes... I remember them being $100+ tools. Times have changes, obviously. Edit- Found a USB one for $10... winner. Will pair nicely with one of my windows tablets. Finally got the scope and the time to play with it. pictures not 100% clear, but I do see scoring? Thoughts? Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Finally got the scope and the time to play with it. pictures not 100% clear, but I do see scoring? Thoughts? I'm not entirely sure of what I'm looking at. If I see a ridge and no scoring I'd load it with high detergent diesel oil or ATF and drive it like I stole it, trying to get the rings to free up. But that's just me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 I'm not entirely sure of what I'm looking at. If I see a ridge and no scoring I'd load it with high detergent diesel oil or ATF and drive it like I stole it, trying to get the rings to free up. But that's just me... I agree with Jim. I don't know that I see any scoring. Yes, there's a ridge, but nothing serious that I see. So I'd do as he suggested - beat on it with a heavy duty detergent and probably a quart of ATF. What do you have to lose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 I agree with Jim. I don't know that I see any scoring. Yes, there's a ridge, but nothing serious that I see. So I'd do as he suggested - beat on it with a heavy duty detergent and probably a quart of ATF. What do you have to lose? Not much to lose. Put in a quart of MMO...cheaper than ATF and made for this purpose. Was considering B12, but that's probably too aggressive/volatile. Here goes nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts