ArdWrknTrk Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Keep driving it to break it in. I don't see anything wrong with the plugs. #3 *looks like* it could be burning a little more oil than the rest, but that could be lighting, angle, etc... Always difficult to make an evaluation through this screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 #3 *looks like* it could be burning a little more oil than the rest, but that could be lighting, angle, etc... Always difficult to make an evaluation through this screen. Forgot to mention: all the plugs looked more or less identical. Wasn't sure if the white electrodes and clean insulators indicated an overlean condition. Although at the 11.5 MPG i'm getting lately, I kinda doubt it's running lean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Forgot to mention: all the plugs looked more or less identical. Wasn't sure if the white electrodes and clean insulators indicated an overlean condition. Although at the 11.5 MPG i'm getting lately, I kinda doubt it's running lean Ash on the insulators means it's been burning oil. That's entirely expected on new rings (until they've seated) I was looking at what appear to be black specks on #3 insulator. But as I said, it's hard to look at on a phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 Forgot to mention: all the plugs looked more or less identical. Wasn't sure if the white electrodes and clean insulators indicated an overlean condition. Although at the 11.5 MPG i'm getting lately, I kinda doubt it's running lean Went for a drive today... Ended in failure. Lost my brakes and limped home... Only to discover the water pump gasket failed with coolant boiling out the seam. Seems the water pump and thermostat gaskets in my kit were junk. As for the brakes, when I get back from the store, I'll make a new thread. Looks like I'll be daily'ing the ranger again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Went for a drive today... Ended in failure. Lost my brakes and limped home... Only to discover the water pump gasket failed with coolant boiling out the seam. Seems the water pump and thermostat gaskets in my kit were junk. As for the brakes, when I get back from the store, I'll make a new thread. Looks like I'll be daily'ing the ranger again Bummer! What brand was your gasket kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 Bummer! What brand was your gasket kit? Enginetech... which is an amalgamation of misc brands all packaged together for ease of ordering for engine rebuilds. Usually they use fel-pro... but these weren't. Gray paper. Generic packaging. Dunno. --- Brake issue is a blown wheel cylinder (left rear)... so no new thread needed. One of my drums is warped so a brake job back there was in the cards anyway... and one of the front wheels has thin pads (even wear between inner and outer, odd it would be different between L/R???) and my rotors are slightly pitted (with dry rotted brake hoses no less)... $300 or so in parts based on rock auto pricing (rotors, drums, front wheel bearings, pads, shoes, drum hardware, and hoses, didn't originally budget wheel cylinders, but they're cheap). Ugh... the fun never ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Enginetech... which is an amalgamation of misc brands all packaged together for ease of ordering for engine rebuilds. Usually they use fel-pro... but these weren't. Gray paper. Generic packaging. Dunno. --- Brake issue is a blown wheel cylinder (left rear)... so no new thread needed. One of my drums is warped so a brake job back there was in the cards anyway... and one of the front wheels has thin pads (even wear between inner and outer, odd it would be different between L/R???) and my rotors are slightly pitted (with dry rotted brake hoses no less)... $300 or so in parts based on rock auto pricing (rotors, drums, front wheel bearings, pads, shoes, drum hardware, and hoses, didn't originally budget wheel cylinders, but they're cheap). Ugh... the fun never ends. I'll stay away from Enginetech. On the brakes, the front calipers don't slide very well so they don't center perfectly. Therefore there's usually more wear on one side than the other. Anyway, you are homing in on a Blooming Onion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 I'll stay away from Enginetech. On the brakes, the front calipers don't slide very well so they don't center perfectly. Therefore there's usually more wear on one side than the other. Anyway, you are homing in on a Blooming Onion! Gary, i think he means that both pads on one side of the truck were worn more that the other. That could be a sticky caliper or more pitting on one rotor than the other. I'm glad you made it home safe Ratdude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 Gary, i think he means that both pads on one side of the truck were worn more that the other. That could be a sticky caliper or more pitting on one rotor than the other. I'm glad you made it home safe Ratdude! Correct. Right side nearly worn out, left side has plenty of life. Same amount of pitting on each rotor. Gary: the other gaskets in the kit seem fine so far. The only issues have been the timing seal and the water pump and t-stat gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Correct. Right side nearly worn out, left side has plenty of life. Same amount of pitting on each rotor. Gary: the other gaskets in the kit seem fine so far. The only issues have been the timing seal and the water pump and t-stat gaskets. Rear brakes should only be about 25% of your stopping power unless really loaded. Since the 1960's there has been a federal mandate for fully separate front and rear braking systems. While you're doing brake work you should have a look at the Dual Brake Warning Switch (what many call the proportioning valve). The shuttle inside shifts over to block fluid loss in event of a failure. You won't be able to bleed them properly unless that warning sensor is brought back to center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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