ratdude747 Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 The hot tank will destroy the cam bearings. And on the heads, you should consider new seals at least. And see if the valves rock in the guides. If so, they are worn. Of course I'm replacing the valve seals.... they were toast. And come in the gasket set. The valves didn't have much of any play in the guides. Still nice and tight (but smooth, not dragging). Didn't know that hot tanking would effect plain babbit bearings... Didn't think hot tanks got that hot. Edit- I'm an idiot. Looked it up, I see. It's the caustic cleaner, not the temperature that causes the issue. I'll have him put in a set of stock sized bearings. Or bring in the cam and have him verify the tolerances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Of course I'm replacing the valve seals.... they were toast. And come in the gasket set. The valves didn't have much of any play in the guides. Still nice and tight (but smooth, not dragging). Didn't know that hot tanking would effect plain babbit bearings... Didn't think hot tanks got that hot. Edit- I'm an idiot. Looked it up, I see. It's the caustic cleaner, not the temperature that causes the issue. I'll have him put in a set of stock sized bearings. Or bring in the cam and have him verify the tolerances. Yes, you beat me to it. The solution eats the bearings up. And yes, it costs money to rebuild an engine. Anyway, glad the guides are good and that you have the seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 Yes, you beat me to it. The solution eats the bearings up. And yes, it costs money to rebuild an engine. Anyway, glad the guides are good and that you have the seals. *Will have the seals. Had to return the gasket kit as it was part of the re-ring kit I bought and had to return (contained rings and main/rod bearings). Rockauto obviously doesn't allow for partial returns for store credit, so I had to return the whole set. Once I have sizes, I'll re-order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 *Will have the seals. Had to return the gasket kit as it was part of the re-ring kit I bought and had to return (contained rings and main/rod bearings). Rockauto obviously doesn't allow for partial returns for store credit, so I had to return the whole set. Once I have sizes, I'll re-order. I didn't realize a machine shop would bore to X. All the guys I use will clean up, get parts in hand, and then machine to final tolerance. Even if I told Mike "I'm going .060 over" or "-010 on the crank" he'd want those parts in his hands before making chips. (And with good reason!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 I didn't realize a machine shop would bore to X. All the guys I use will clean up, get parts in hand, and then machine to final tolerance. Even if I told Mike "I'm going .060 over" or "-010 on the crank" he'd want those parts in his hands before making chips. (And with good reason!) It's a chicken and egg sort of problem. We don't know how much it will take to clean up (I'm thinking 0.030" will get it), so I can't order parts until I have a confirmed measurement. Same for the crank- he's going to clean it up, and report back if it's in spec (and if not, how much re-grind will be needed). He'll be getting the pistons to swap the rods over, so piston size will be verified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 It's a chicken and egg sort of problem. We don't know how much it will take to clean up (I'm thinking 0.030" will get it), so I can't order parts until I have a confirmed measurement. Same for the crank- he's going to clean it up, and report back if it's in spec (and if not, how much re-grind will be needed). He'll be getting the pistons to swap the rods over, so piston size will be verified. Yup, this is why quality machine work (and especially engine building) is expensive. Check, and recheck... Crack check Clean up the bores Square deck to crank Sonic check the cylinder walls Install cam bearings Recondition rods Order pistions/rings/bearings Confirm sizes Cut/grind/hone to spec. Gap rings Assemble rotating assembly Build up short block: crank, cam, timing set Crack check and deck heads Install guides and ream Porting... if desired Clean the head... again Cut seats Install valves and lap Check installed height of springs Cut or shim to height/pressure Install heads Check pushrod length Order pushrods Install valve train Double check piston to valve clearance and squish Install pumps and tin Install manifolds NOW you're close to installing it into something, adding front dress and fuel, wiring it up and priming it for break-in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 It's a chicken and egg sort of problem. We don't know how much it will take to clean up (I'm thinking 0.030" will get it), so I can't order parts until I have a confirmed measurement. Same for the crank- he's going to clean it up, and report back if it's in spec (and if not, how much re-grind will be needed). He'll be getting the pistons to swap the rods over, so piston size will be verified. Heard from the machinist the other day and ordered parts. Needed bored 0.030" over, crank was in spec (no regrind and/or undersize bearings needed). Parts should be here Friday, so with any luck I'll have her on the road within the next two weeks. Maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Heard from the machinist the other day and ordered parts. Needed bored 0.030" over, crank was in spec (no regrind and/or undersize bearings needed). Parts should be here Friday, so with any luck I'll have her on the road within the next two weeks. Maybe. Good to hear it's coming along. The 300 is a great engine in a truck and I love mine in my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Good to hear it's coming along. The 300 is a great engine in a truck and I love mine in my truck. A minor setback may be coming... work is re-mobilizing me next week... at least it's a fixed 8.5-9 hours, so I'll have some time. Anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 A minor setback may be coming... work is re-mobilizing me next week... at least it's a fixed 8.5-9 hours, so I'll have some time. Anyway... Having issues with installing the new timing cover crank seal. Old one was in TIGHT... had to partially cut it with a hack saw to allow it to crush and hammer out. The new one I ordered as an NOS is older than expected... while the baggie has a new-ish dealer sticker, the bag itself is very old with a copyright of 1966 . The part is more of a muesem piece than something I want to use. Luckily, the gasket kit, despite the notes saying it had no crank or valve seals, came with all of the above. However, the timing seal in question is too big... cannot get it to start straight in the hole with a seal driver. Maybe 5-10 thousanths oversized relative to my timing cover bore. Is this normal (and I'm doing something wrong), or do I need to get another seal? Yes, I did lightly heat the cover with a torch... but not much since I don't want to warp or melt the aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts