delco1946 Posted September 2, 2019 Author Share Posted September 2, 2019 So what I have set up is quite similar to the YouTube video. Only with the cold weather switch, that appears to take the place of that blue cylinder thingy in the video. I followed the cold weather switch document on this website, which also aligns with my Haynes manual (or at least I’m pretty sure I did ). My understanding is that the CWS basically holds a vacuum below 55° so that if you accelerate it the cold, the vacuum motor stays open. *Edit * maybe I’ll just switch to you design Lariat- the cws stuff doesn’t show on my label so perhaps I’m getting carried away. The only reason I stuck a temporary tee on the air cleaner is that I don’t know where that tube in the first pic goes to. That unknown tube is I. The first pic, and its not coming out of the manifold, which I think would indeed go to the snorkel via air temp switch and cws, rather it’s coming from the back of the carburetor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 To make it easier to read: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted September 2, 2019 Author Share Posted September 2, 2019 To make it easier to read: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 . Remove that hose off the back of the carb that has the teal / black / white valve in it. See that other short hose on that metal line just under it? One end goes into the intake manifold the other end with the short hose goes to the carb you pulled the other hose from. Now that hose you pulled off with that teal / black / white valve (VRDV) in it based on the vacuum line sticky should go to intake manifold vacuum supply then to the A/CL BI-MET switch on the filter lid or the side of the housing (don't know what one?) then to the filter housing snorkel door A/CL DV. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted September 2, 2019 Author Share Posted September 2, 2019 . Remove that hose off the back of the carb that has the teal / black / white valve in it. See that other short hose on that metal line just under it? One end goes into the intake manifold the other end with the short hose goes to the carb you pulled the other hose from. Now that hose you pulled off with that teal / black / white valve (VRDV) in it based on the vacuum line sticky should go to intake manifold vacuum supply then to the A/CL BI-MET switch on the filter lid or the side of the housing (don't know what one?) then to the filter housing snorkel door A/CL DV. Dave ---- Hot damn! Thank you!! It’s coming together. Now what is the black and grey valve and which way should it orient? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 Hot damn! Thank you!! It’s coming together. Now what is the black and grey valve and which way should it orient? By the vacuum sticky it looks to be the VDV going to the air bypass valve? It also looks like the white part of all the valves should be to the vacuum supply, look at the sticky Gary posted on the right side. The only thing I am not sure on is the 2 temp switches, 1 in the lid & the other on the side of the housing and what each is called so you know what one gets used for what. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted September 2, 2019 Author Share Posted September 2, 2019 Hot damn! Thank you!! It’s coming together. Now what is the black and grey valve and which way should it orient? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted September 2, 2019 Author Share Posted September 2, 2019 Not perfect but I’m close. I’m unsure as to how the vacuum is affected by the temp switches at the thermostat housing. Im getting no/weak vacuum with a warming engine if I put my fingers over either tube connecting to the side of the air cleaner ( which Coincidentally is labeled TVS on the inside matching with the schematic). There appears to be two temperature switches in the circuit With the thermactor and egr. How do they interact? It’s idling very rough- almost stalled twice, so much so I actually had to feather the gas for a while before would stay on. Thoughts? Could this now be due to a bad egr? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 Not perfect but I’m close. I’m unsure as to how the vacuum is affected by the temp switches at the thermostat housing. Im getting no/weak vacuum with a warming engine if I put my fingers over either tube connecting to the side of the air cleaner ( which Coincidentally is labeled TVS on the inside matching with the schematic). There appears to be two temperature switches in the circuit With the thermactor and egr. How do they interact? It’s idling very rough- almost stalled twice, so much so I actually had to feather the gas for a while before would stay on. Thoughts? Could this now be due to a bad egr? How the air cleaner works is shown here: Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners. And an EGR valve that is not closed can certainly cause problems with the engine idling. And the EGR valve can be open due to getting vacuum when it shouldn't or because there's carbon in it keeping it from closing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted September 3, 2019 Author Share Posted September 3, 2019 How the air cleaner works is shown here: Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners. And an EGR valve that is not closed can certainly cause problems with the engine idling. And the EGR valve can be open due to getting vacuum when it shouldn't or because there's carbon in it keeping it from closing. I’ve given up for tonight, and I simply disconnected the EGR valve in which fixed the rough idle issue suggesting its a plumbing issue and not an egr issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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