Vacuum Controlled Heater Core Valve

[85lebaront2]

I can add part numbers to the page as we get the details worked out.

And I’ve edited my 8:08 AM post to change the control dates. Thanks for that, I wasn’t aware that the controls actually changed in 1983. So, does it look right now?

And, did the illumination connector also change as of 1983?

If that’s right, it only leaves the cable issue to sort out. And it is possible that the 1983 cable fits the 1984 - 86 controls, but that they had a problem with the ‘83 and revised it for ‘84 - and forgot to change the 1983 catalog entry to show “replaced by”. That happens all the time in the catalog.

Gary, looking at the early vs late control panel, I see where the vacuum issue arises, look at the sequence on the function selector lever, specifically where Vent is in relation to the A/C selections. Makes me like my older Chrysler push buttons more, Vent was achieved by pulling the A/C button back out, which turned off the A/C clutch feed.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, looking at the early vs late control panel, I see where the vacuum issue arises, look at the sequence on the function selector lever, specifically where Vent is in relation to the A/C selections. Makes me like my older Chrysler push buttons more, Vent was achieved by pulling the A/C button back out, which turned off the A/C clutch feed.

I hadn’t noticed that, Bill. But they really did change things, didn’t they.

I need to find two good early controls. A really nice one for Dad’s and a nice one for Big Blue. The one I have leaks in the control itself, although I’ve fixed leaks before by pulling them apart and cleaning them, so maybe I can in this one. Then, with the right cables and connectors I’ll try this on Big Blue.

[Ford F834]

I hadn’t noticed that, Bill. But they really did change things, didn’t they.

I need to find two good early controls. A really nice one for Dad’s and a nice one for Big Blue. The one I have leaks in the control itself, although I’ve fixed leaks before by pulling them apart and cleaning them, so maybe I can in this one. Then, with the right cables and connectors I’ll try this on Big Blue.

Gary I didn't get a shot of the late cable by itself yet (probably tomorrow) but I was at my truck today and got a pic of the cable end as it connects to the controller and dog legs through the hole in the lever arm:

[Gary Lewis]

Gary I didn't get a shot of the late cable by itself yet (probably tomorrow) but I was at my truck today and got a pic of the cable end as it connects to the controller and dog legs through the hole in the lever arm:

Jonathan - Is that an '83 or?

[Ford F834]

Jonathan - Is that an '83 or?

Oh, sorry... that came from a 1986 F250. Hopefully I can get pics of the 1983 version tomorrow at the junkyard.

[LARIAT 85]

I used a NAPA as shown in the link.

Equivalent to a Motorcraft YG350.

Hooked in the Max A/C vacuum line on my Bronco. I might put one on the F250.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6601294

I used this one on Lucille as well. It works great!

[Gary Lewis]

I used a NAPA as shown in the link.

Equivalent to a Motorcraft YG350.

Hooked in the Max A/C vacuum line on my Bronco. I might put one on the F250.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6601294

I used this one on Lucille as well. It works great!

That's easily done, but doesn't cool the incoming air in Vent, and that's my biggest issue. So many days when I want to drive with the windows down and air coming in via Vent, but right now the air is quite warm.

[grumpin]

That's easily done, but doesn't cool the incoming air in Vent, and that's my biggest issue. So many days when I want to drive with the windows down and air coming in via Vent, but right now the air is quite warm.

If your mod doesn't work out. Hope it does.

Here's the valve I have in case hooking it in Max A/C doesn't work like I want.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-11542-vus

[LARIAT 85]

That's easily done, but doesn't cool the incoming air in Vent, and that's my biggest issue. So many days when I want to drive with the windows down and air coming in via Vent, but right now the air is quite warm.

It is easily done, and it *does* effectively cool the air in the MAX A/C mode. Much cooler than without the valve.

Do you not have air conditioning in Dad's truck? If you don't, I see why you have an issue. But if you do have A/C, I'm not seeing it?

If the air coming from the VENT is too warm, turn on the A/C. Isn't that the purpose? If it is still too warm, use MAX/AC. If it gets too cold, all you have to do is move the temperature control to the "warmer" side enough to suit your needs. I suppose that is why Ford didn't do what you are proposing. That, and one of the biggest reasons the A/C system develops leaks is because the A/C usually isn't used enough.

[Gary Lewis]

That's easily done, but doesn't cool the incoming air in Vent, and that's my biggest issue. So many days when I want to drive with the windows down and air coming in via Vent, but right now the air is quite warm.

It is easily done, and it *does* effectively cool the air in the MAX A/C mode. Much cooler than without the valve.

Do you not have air conditioning in Dad's truck? If you don't, I see why you have an issue. But if you do have A/C, I'm not seeing it?

If the air coming from the VENT is too warm, turn on the A/C. Isn't that the purpose? If it is still too warm, use MAX/AC. If it gets too cold, all you have to do is move the temperature control to the "warmer" side enough to suit your needs. I suppose that is why Ford didn't do what you are proposing. That, and one of the biggest reasons the A/C system develops leaks is because the A/C usually isn't used enough.

Yup, I have A/C. But, when it is in the 60's outside I don't see the need to run it. However, with coolant to the heater core the air temp is way too warm on Vent. As for needing warm air then, just move the lever to Heat.